Dayglorange

Got the chonky boi gold water bottle. Plus bunch of other things like a new gaming laptop, wall mount for my second monitor, etc etc no one cares bout that tho.

I saw the Ossia batteries in my searching, but the technology they use is not quite the same as Qi charging. They use the same type of principal as wi-fi and bluetooth, essentially. From what I saw they're supposedly going to release those next year. I just wanted to see if I could possibly engineer a solution myself, as that's kind of the road I'm going down (currently in school to be an engineer, I already have an IT degree) and I'm looking at projects that I can start planning out.

Soooo....I'm currently running a Corsair Ironclaw wireless mouse, and while I love it, it seems as though I have to plug the darn thing in almost every day. I've been doing some research into available wireless charging mice and mousepads, but only a few models exist and they're also quite expensive. I was trying to figure out if there would be a way to convert a wireless mouse to be able to accept Qi wireless charging, and then all I'd need is a charging pad to plonk it down on. My idea, however, is to take a mouse that runs from AA batteries rather than my Ironclaw (I don't want to ruin it, but I have some older mice I can use for testing) like a Logitech G602, and add whatever it would need to take wireless charging without having to modify much else. Is this possible? Am I crazy? I feel like this should be doable. If you can get those add-ons for phones that let you have wireless charging with their existing batteries, shouldn't this be possible with a mouse and some rechargable AAs? I'm not an electrician or an engineer (yet), and my limited knowledge makes me think that there should be some way to do this. If anyone has any insight, if what I'm looking to do makes sense or not...please halp!

As someone who is currently in the process of repainting some cases for custom builds, I have a few suggestions/tips that you might find helpful. First, yes prepping the case is the best way to ensure your paint looks good once finished. A light sanding to remove any existing coatings, then a basic soap+water wash to remove any leftover dust and stuff and air dry will be enough for most cases then you need to consider your paint, and the types of materials the case is made from. If you have a case that has both metals and plastics, like the ones I've been working on, look for paint that specifies what surfaces its made for, and if it contains primer already or not. I personally would recommend Krylon Fusion as its made for multi-surface applications and also is a paint+primer formula so you don't need to worry about applying primer first buuuut that's just my experience with it and you may also not have the same paints available where you are. I can only get a decent selection of Krylon at my local Lowes and everywhere else has Rustoleum which I have not tried. The second thing I highly suggest to get a nice, even coat on all of the surfaces is to take the case apart as much as you possibly can. For mine, I even went as far as drilling out the rivets and taking it down panel by panel so I could paint every piece individually, but you might not want to or have the tools to do so. If you do, this mnpctech video shows how to do so and the stuff you'll need. Lastly, make sure you get a top coat to seal it all up once you've applied the color and whatever details you want. I've only just gotten into the case modding and painting thing but so far, its been fun, and I'm really looking forward to finally finishing a project this summer. Good luck to you!

I got myself the Corsair Virtuoso SE earlier this year and I would highly recommend it. Its been amazingly comfortable for long gaming sessions, the mic is decent as I've had no complaints from any of my friends since I got it and it has USB-C which tbh its 2020 everything should have that by now. Another fun thing I discovered is that it is capable of two input sources at once - via wireless and wired (with the 3.5 cable, I haven't tried wireless and USB yet). Idk if this was a feature they advertised or not, but I discovered it kind of by accident and it just made me love the headset more.

I have the K95 Platinum and as said above, Corsair uses a non-standard bottom row and the only pudding style keycaps right now are standard sizes and generally only in sets. I looked and looked when I bought my set (the Hyper-X one) but could never find any with the right dimensions for my board, so I left the keys that wouldn't fit and it really doesn't look too bad tbh. I thought it would bother me more than it did, but it really never was an issue after the initial "aw poop" moment when I realized I couldn't make it a whole matching set.

Oof on the power supply. I've been working recently with a few builds using a Rosewill PSU and those things suck a butt. Rosewill cases are okay, but stay away from those PSUs. Get a good Corsair, EVGA or Silverstone modular with some nice black cables and I'd say its perfect.

WELP that plan might not work after all for me I am not within the weight limit for the stupid Panda Pods...sooo not the best idea if you're on the bigger side like I am, I guess. Looks like I'll have to figure something else out.

I volunteered and spent my Saturday at the con, Sunday working. Being a broke college student, I couldn't afford a hotel so I decided to pull an all-nighter in the BYOC... DON'T. That was a mistake ? I was miserable most of Sunday, having been on my feet basically all day the previous day and with no real rest in between. I was lucky enough to be working the Gaming at Every Price Point booth, which was right next to Vertagear, who graciously let me lounge in their chairs the whole day. So with that experience in mind, as much fun as I had last year, being miserable and dead on my feet wasn't the best idea and my drive home was not fun either. (I drove up from Washington) I think I'm going to try and book a hotel this year, and will probably try to do the BYOC properly as I only brought my laptop last year which isn't meant for gaming and I've since upgraded my desktop to something I feel actually proud to show off, however its still a chonker and carrying it down the stairs in my house is terrifying...just the prospect of moving this thing around is why I didn't bring it last and opted for the laptop instead. I'm also definitely driving up again, as I'm only about a 2-hour drive away and that's the cheapest and easiest option for me. Assuming I have the funds, I plan to do it properly this year and not try to run on nothing but coffee and prayers on Sunday lol If you're like me, and you're coming on your own, and really don't need a hotel for much more than sleep and a place to change clothes, the Panda Pod hotel looks like a good deal. I think I'm going to book one of those this time around, so when I get tired of playing around at the BYOC at like 4am I can go snooze and actually feel like a human again for the second day. I also plan to volunteer, and if that's an option for you I also highly recommend it! Volunteering last year was awesome, and having volunteered for other conventions in the past like PAX I'd have to say this has been my favorite to work so far.

@NickHeavy I just came here to say that you've done an incredible job at this whole project! I'm super happy to see you in videos now. Looking forward to seeing more of your projects. :)

And I thought I had an overkill RGB system ? I gotta ask, how are you liking the Ironclaw so far? I just got one myself recently but I'm still torn between it and my wired Nightsword. All Corsair, all the way though!

Cable management is a giant pain in the butt. I have torn down and rebuilt my PC so many freaking times just because I don't like my cable management, and every time I only get a teeensy weensy little bit better at it...? cable monster aside your build looks pretty damn solid I'd say. If you're gonna tackle those cables my only advice is that cable ties are your friend.

Tested the card in another system? Test a different card in that system? This may help to determine that the GPU is definitely the cause.

^^^^ If you're not running on a UPS, you should be. Even if you live in a modern house, that's no guarantee that something might happen and cause damage to your PC. You can get a pretty decent UPS from CyberPower for anywhere from $80-$200 depending on your system's total power draw at max. I run a 900Watt/1500VA on my system with an 850W PSU that never gets close to max even under load (I just upgraded from a 750W and never maxed that one either) and this is more than enough for my system.

For the keyboards/mice, if they are able to save hardware profiles then you will need to create a hardware profile and then save it to the device. They usually come with 3 pre-made profiles already saved to the device (all rainbow vomit default settings). As for the Dominator Platinum, if you have "full software control" enabled they won't save the effects in hardware. If its off, it should save your chosen effect in hardware by default. I have mine set to rain purple/blue and if iCue isn't running, it still displays this. EDIT: Here's a link to a handy guide for iCUE on the Corsair forums that you might find helpful.