Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


This user doesn't have any awards

About cardsfanbj

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    State of Misery (aka Missouri)
  • Interests
    Trucks (F-150), outdoors, home improvement, Runescape

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I let it run overnight, and it's still stuck at 58%. Not going to touch it before leaving for work, hoping it will do something over the next 8 hours, even though the last 8 did nothing.
  2. Windows 10 64-bit Got home from work today and had the message on screen that a security update was downloaded and needed to reboot to apply, so I restarted it. It rebooted, got to the working on updates, XX%, don't turn off your computer message and I hear the last video I had open on YouTube (Linus and the most bestest Mac pro) starts playing, despite the "working on updates" message and never getting the screen to log back into windows. I note that it's at 58%. I turned off the speakers and let the update do its thing. Cut to a half hour later, it's still at 58%. I let it go another half hour, and it's still 58%. Should I reboot the PC manually, or should I let it go? I kinda was hoping I'd be able to play some Fallout 76 before I have to go to bed, but I'd also rather not corrupt my install and have to format my drive, reinstall Windows, get all the settings back the way I like, remap the folders, get all my iTunes playlists back again, etc, etc, etc.
  3. My parents have an old Dell Inspiron 580. It's running an Intel Core i3 550 and when I tried upgrading from Windows 7 to 10, it told me whatever version of integrated graphics it had wasn't supported and wouldn't let me update. I've since ordered a GTX 650 off eBay in order to remedy this, but I was also thinking about upgrading the CPU. It's socket FCLGA 1156, and I found a quad core that's compatible and affordable is an i5 760, but watching the video where Linus and Riley upgrade the $69 prebuilt, they mention double checking with the manufacturer for what's validated to work with their board, and I can't find anything on Dell's site about what's supported. Going onto Dell's site for support, my only options are for looking through manuals online, or it gives me the phone number for support, no option to live chat or send an email. Does anybody know anything I don't? (about this, obviously) Dell's unhelpful support site: https://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/04/product-support/product/inspiron-580/docs
  4. Yay... Problem solved. One stick is bad. Somehow. Probably my own fault mishandling it. Tried swapping slots and now it won't even boot with that stick in. Take it out and try with only the other 4GB stick and it boots and lets me log into Windows, albeit not as responsive. Tried swapping back to the previous slots and it won't even boot as it did before. Guess I'll be looking into some new ram sticks
  5. I have a Toshiba P855 laptop that had the fan bearing go bad in it, plus the thermal paste was old and I wanted to replace it. So I ordered the new fan and bought new paste, replaced the fan, and now it refuses to let me into my account. System will boot, get to the login screen, and when I try to enter my password, it crashes. The system reboots and at the Windows screen it wants to run a disk check and it will either fail and crash again, or it will fail and prompt you whether you want to continue, troubleshoot, or shut down. Loading now prompts you that "automatic repair couldn't repair your PC" and gives you the options to shut down or click on advanced options, which has continue to load windows 10, troubleshoot, or shut down. The fact that it reaches the login screen confuses me, since it makes it seem like there's no hardware problem, but the drive shouldn't have any problems with it, and it booted just fine prior to replacing the fan. Boot drive is an SSD, so it shouldn't have had problems with anything like getting too close to a magnetized screwdriver, so I'm at a loss. Stop codes I have gotten: IRLQ not less or equal Memory management attempted write to read only memory kernel security check failure kmode exception not handled
  6. Anybody know where the best place to find replacement parts for laptops? I've got a 6 year old Toshiba Satellite that I basically just use for school at this point and I'd rather save the money and replace the fan instead of the whole unit. I have a feeling the answer is going to be eBay, but do you have any other suggestions?
  7. Just received my Noctua fans I bought off Amazon, two NF-P14s and one NF-P12 redux. I turned on my PC and one of them wasn't spinning. I previously tried playing with the fan curve but had 3 pin fans and I didn't realize they didn't work for variable speed, which is why I replaced them. Previously had two Rosewill RAWP-141411 V2 140 mm fans in front and a 120 mm Cooler Master fan (included with the case) for exhaust. I have ASRock's A-Tuning utility (along with their AB350 Pro motherboard) and started their fan test to check what the fans run at, and the one 140 mm that wasn't running the utility said between 10, 20, and 30% power speed was 0 RPM and max speed was 1463, but the other 140 mm did run at 10, 20, and 30% with a max of 1350, with similar speeds at 40% (734 and 720). Both fans are identical and are rated at 1500 RPM I didn't notice whether or not the exhaust fan was running, but I ran the utility and it said its speed at 10, 20, and 30% were 0 RPM as well, with a max of 1260 and is rated for 1300 RPM. All fans plugged directly into motherboard headers, no splitters in sight. Did I get a bad fan, or am I doing something wrong? I'll try reseating all the connectors later, after I get off work. Attached copies of the results, but ignore the fan curve. Have been playing with it to get it to work.
  8. Drive's been replaced by ADATA. Thanks for the help people.
  9. I can actually access all the data as is, but nothing on that drive was anything I really need. The drive was just for the OS and programs, everything critical is either on my 1TB hard drive or backed up in cloud storage
  10. It's an ADATA XPG SX6000 PCIe 128GB I've tried format=NTFS and that failed.
  11. Windows on boot drive seems to have been corrupted. All my data was already backed up so wiping the data is not an issue for me. Problem is that the drive somehow became write protected. I don't know how, but it is. I've got a SATA M.2 drive now and I've installed windows onto it so I can at least use my pc now. First thing I tried was going through This PC in file explorer, right clicking on drive in question, selecting format and that gave the write protection error. I've also tried going through Disk Management but "format" is greyed out, as are most options. I googled how to remove the write protection and I've found several listings on how to do it through command prompts and it goes as follows: >diskpart >list disk >select disk 1 >attributes disk clear readonly and it will tell you "disk attributes cleared successfully" After exiting command prompt, I go back into file explorer and try to format again, but it still kicks back that the disk is write protected. I've tried using the command prompts, restarting the computer, and trying again but it's still write protected.
  12. Again, I left the room and when I was gone the computer shut off and I noticed the LED on the power button for my case was flashing (Cooler Master MasterBox 5). I didn't have time to power it back on and check whether the OS has been corrupted again or not. I did contact Cooler Master and they responded that it wasn't anything with the case, but with some other component and it was still getting some kind of signal from the motherboard.
  13. The disk also no longer shows up in file explorer, but it's still detected through the command prompts, in disk management, and by third party disk management software (EaseUS in this case).
  14. The saga continues. New M.2 drive arrived today, so I installed windows onto it in order to format the NVME drive and it's kicking back that that drive is protected. Google search turned up instructions on how to clear that through command prompts, but didn't work as expected: Two videos from the same guy for if the problem didn't work one way. Trying it that way resulted in this.
  15. Was going to buy a 240 GB PNY SSD ($35) but, despite having the flier things hanging with the rest of their SSDs (and having other SSDs with notes about not being in stock) they didn't have it. So their next cheapest option in store was a 250 GB WD Blue 2.5" ($55). I bought it, but after double checking Amazon, I found a 500 GB WD Blue M.2 SATA. So that's been ordered for next day shipping (only $4 extra) and I'll return the other to Best Buy. This is why Best Buy sucks. That as well as their selection was so small anyway.