AntiTrust

try using displayport and see if you have the same issue

just for peace of mind, double check your monitor input is set correctly could be a dead motherboard, its a bit unethical but you can buy a new motherboard and try it and if it doesnt work just return it.

Just following up on my post because I figured out the problem. one of the HDD I set up for mirroring was very old, 2015, and it appears to have died. nothing ever came up, but when I checked back in disk management later at one point it said that the drive had errors. I checked the drive for errors and it failed. I reformatted the drive as a simple drive, no mirroring and it worked for a bit (I was really suspect of it) and it finally failed and died today. it no longer reads at all in disk management. I unplugged it from the motherboard and my boot times are suddenly back to being 10 seconds or less. thanks for the tip on storage spaces @Electronics Wizardy I am plannning on getting a new drive to replace the dead one and set up mirroring again

I recently reinstalled windows and did a full wipe of all my disks and wanted to try out software raid using windows disk management. My storage is set up like below 1 x 500GB nvme drive boot 1 x 500GB sata ssd for work 2 x 2TB SSDs raid 0 striping for games & programs 2 x 2TB HDD raid 1 mirroring for storing photos and home videos etc I want backed up 1 x 2TB HDD bitlocker encrypted However I am finding that my boot times have increased from maybe 10-15 seconds to around 2 minutes. Is this a normal side effect of software raid? As far as I can tell I havent inadvertently changed something in the BIOS, fast boot is enabled etc.

this cable worked for my 2000 series card, 4k 120hz and even had working audio just for anyone who might come across this on a google search one day

Yeah I am trying to use my 2080 for this, never even considered that my graphics card wouldnt support hdmi 2.1 but your right it doesnt edit: going to try a displayport 1.4 to HDMI 2.1 cable from cable matters wish me luck lol

TLDR: did I get ripped off on my HDMI cable and how can I know for sure Cable Link I have a new TV a Samsung QN90A which supports resolutions up to 4K 120hz on the HDMI 2.1 connection. I bought a cable that says it supports HDMI 2.1 4K @ 240hz but I cant even get it to run 4K 120hz (see the attached screenshot) the resolution doesn't appear in the list. When I try to make a custom resolution (4K 120hz) the screen goes black and doesn't work. Is there anything I should be trying before I run out and spend $100 on an HDMI certified cable? I have had good luck with cable matters cables in the past, I bought a USB C cable for my oculus quest 2 that worked perfectly and saved me a bunch of money. People in the reviews seemed to be able to make it work too. thanks

I live in Canada & my budget is pretty flexible - if it is worth it I'd spend up to $2,000 on a TV. but Ideally between $1,000-$1,500. My couch is apprx 9 feet away from the TV and due to the placement of the TV I can accomodate about a 58" width screen, which translates into about a 65" TV If it matters, I would use it to watch movies/tv shows on streaming programs, chrome cast, I don't really watch sports or regular TV. Not overly concerned with gaming on TV either, Soooo... what should I get? any TV experts on here

as above said, check cords. try unplugging power and popping out the watch battery for 10s on the mother board. will reset bios

gigabyte makes about 5 million motherboards per year, some will have defects. the vast majority work fine

I know myself that theres no way Im going to upgrade a GPU in 2-3 years and not upgrade everything else.. DDR5 Ram will probably be out and a whole bunch of the latest and greatest CPU's. I would go for a cheaper CPU/Mobo and postpone the full upgrade for a few years, then sell your current rig and shoot for the moon.

you mean that they made a video where they used forum suggestions for parts? which is different from what I suggested

Do a video pretending to be new to pc building and post on the LTT forums in "new builds and planning" then build each pc that forum posters suggest and Linus can choose the best pc build suggestion based on performance as well as being best suited to the original posters specific use case

linus we need a review of the best cord cutters tv's for people that don't want to buy cable. ie best smart tvs for streaming services / youtube

check with bequiet for warranty, are you sure its dead? do you hear anything when its plugged in? I thought my aio was dead once, but it just had an air bubble in the pump. EVGA cust service told me to just shake it very hard and plug it back in and its worked since. after that I changed how my AIO was instaleld to prevent air bubbles.

yes, look at the TDP rating of the cooler (183W) and the TDP rating of the cpu (105W), more than enough cooling with NHD15 edit: https://ncc.noctua.at/cpus/model/Ryzen-9-5950X-1044

need more information

download GPU-Z, start up a game and record what the perfcap reason is and post results here. will give you an indication what is limiting the performance of your gpu (thermals etc)

not really I use arctic MX4 for most everything and it works well enough. for your use case, I would just stick to a standard paste - the noctua stuff is likely pretty good. I think in tests thermal grizzly kryonaut is considered the best,

I might do it anyways, but appreciate the effort you put into your post. it is great to know there is a bit less risk in doing it with my 8700k

I've seen a few tech channels recommending to use nail polish as a non conductive protective barrier around the CPU die when delidding with liquid metal. In your opinions is this step necessary and if you've done it what kind of nail polish did you use?

fans spinning doesn't really mean anything, you hook up power to the motor and the fans spin. no display could be a million reasons why - I'd say not worth the trouble. but for $50 if you've got lots of spare time I mean it could be a learning experience?

well, its going to be really tricky to figure out whats working and whats fried. if you have a spare computer available you can put the psu in and test that to rule it out, same with ram, gpu, hard drives etc testing the motherboard and cpu is trickier, might have to call a local repair shop and ask them to test it. or you could (sort of unethically) buy a motherboard with the same chipset, test it with your cpu and if yours is fried keep it, otherwise return it.

the monitor you paid for is rated for 144hz at 1080p, why would you need to buy an adapter to make it work... you are going into the Nvidia control panel to set the resolution and refresh speed correct?

Hi and welcome to the forum, Im a little confused with the budget - you stated $1,000 but specced out a $650 comp. If youre not super concerned with high end gaming and going for a $650 build I'd agree that an APU build might be the best for your budget and use. APUs combine a processor and a graphics card into one chip and they can be quite respectable for low end gaming. If I were you I would wait until August 5th when the new Ryzen 5000 series APU's come out, then post on here asking for help. Youll have people falling over each other trying to help you build one good luck