Sir_Salmon

Okay, cool thing happened yesterday. I opened up my PC to clean out the dust and re-do my cable management in the back (which now looks excellent, btw) and I noticed a SATA connector running down with the front I/O cables. I just needed to have this plugged in the whole time. I didn't even need to have the cable/adapter I was fussing about plugged in; in fact, that just made the addressable RGB stop working, so I unplugged it. The lighting works fantastic now and looks beautiful.

It didn't work.

Wow, totally forgot about this thread. Well, I ordered that XSPC adapter and it'll be here by Thursday, hope it works. Thanks for digging for a solution, folks.

Not sure what happened, but I went through a small portion of what you did in diskpart.exe there, shut down my computer to play WiiU with a friend, then turned it back on again and Windows greeted me with a new install of Windows 10, plus my drives are individual now! Yay!

So, if you already reinstalled Windows in the SSD leave that one like that and then work on the HDD, to remove the partition on the HDD and reformat it use these commands in the CMD:
 
Type DiskPart on the CMD or invoke the tool with the Run window:
First, select the drive you're working on:
List disk: Displays the list of attached disks and USB flash drives Sel disk (select disk): Selects the scope to work in Clean all: Removes partition and volume information from the selected device Next, with your device clean (in factory state), create partitions and format it. Select your drive and type the following commands to create partitions:
List part: Display partitions available on the drive (a fabric state would not have partitions) Sel part: Used to select a partition to work on Del part: Used to delete the selected partition If you don't have partitions, you can create a new one.
Create part primary: This command creates a primary partition of the full size of the drive. You can also specify an extended or logical partition or the size desired for the partition using size="xxx".
Now select your partition to format and configure it with the selected partition type:
Format override fs=”NTFS” label=”label”: Performs a low-level format (secure erase), configures your partition on NTFS file system, and sets the desired label. You can also use other parameters and functions of this command. For example, to run a quick format in place of override, type “format quick fs=”NTFS” label=”test” size=409600” (size is in MB).
You have created and formatted your partition. If the partition doesn't have a letter assigned, you can't see the drive on Windows*.
To see the drive, type the following commands:
List vol: List all volumes available Sel vol: Select the volume that you already create with the last commands. Assign letter: Assign a letter to the drive so Windows sees your drive. The drive is ready to use. For example: assign letter=”D”.
 
For more information about DiskPart, see the commands syntax and commands explanation.

Absolutely. Just make sure you purchase the same stick the next time, so that your RAM will be dual-channel so you'll see a significant improvement.

Yeah, the 1050 is probably the best deal, unless you can find an RX 560 for less. 
If you plan to do more with the PC than games and light web browsing, I recommend 8 GB RAM. Otherwise, you're good.
If you plan to play some newer popular, high end titles as they come out, I really recommend 8 GB and something a bit more capable than a GT 1030.