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About Sir_Salmon

  • Title
  • Birthday 2003-09-17

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    Legal Skooma Brewer#1540
  • Steam

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Building computers
    Using those computers for gaming
  • Occupation
    High school, I suppose.


  • CPU
    Ryzen 5 2600 4ghz @1.4v
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte Aorus X470 Ultra Gaming
  • RAM
    Vulcan 2x8gb DDR4-3000
  • GPU
    Gigabyte GTX 1060 6gb Windforce OC
  • Case
    Phanteks Eclipse P350x
  • Storage
    Inland Pro 240gb SSD, WD Blue 1tb 7200rpm
  • PSU
    EVGA 500w BQ Semi-Modular
  • Display(s)
    Sceptre E248W-1920R
  • Cooling
    EVGA CLC 120 AIO
  • Keyboard
    Velocifire TKL02 Wired
  • Mouse
    Corsair Harpoon RGB
  • Sound
    Corsair HS50 Headset
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. Okay, cool thing happened yesterday. I opened up my PC to clean out the dust and re-do my cable management in the back (which now looks excellent, btw) and I noticed a SATA connector running down with the front I/O cables. I just needed to have this plugged in the whole time. I didn't even need to have the cable/adapter I was fussing about plugged in; in fact, that just made the addressable RGB stop working, so I unplugged it. The lighting works fantastic now and looks beautiful.
  2. Wow, totally forgot about this thread. Well, I ordered that XSPC adapter and it'll be here by Thursday, hope it works. Thanks for digging for a solution, folks.
  3. Not sure what happened, but I went through a small portion of what you did in diskpart.exe there, shut down my computer to play WiiU with a friend, then turned it back on again and Windows greeted me with a new install of Windows 10, plus my drives are individual now! Yay!
  4. Alright so I'm following the picture and I've had 'clean all' going for several minutes here. I can't type in the cmd box and nothing is happening, no "Diskpart succeeded in cleaning the disk." and I can't type in the box. This normal? Does it take a really long time?
  5. Okay, that's essentially what I want to do anyways. I just don't know how to do it.
  6. I got a new WD Blue 1tb drive yesterday, and I have an X470 board so I decided I'd try out the new StoreMI technology. Speeding up my hard drive with my 240gb SSD boot drive sounded pretty cool. I regret it. I should have done more research and now I feel like an idiot. I love having my SSD dedicated so my OS and my mass storage dedicated to my Steam library, and I want that back. After I tried to revert it with the StoreMI application it just did not revert, and now I have 929gb total storage instead of 1.2tb like I should, and did before. I have no idea what happened to that storage, but Disk Management in Windows 10 says both drives are there and in the correct capacity. And I can't reformat the drives in Disk Management, because the 'Delete Volume' option is grayed out. I just reinstalled Windows because I couldn't install any games on Steam, and it fixed that, but nothing else. When I try to boot from my SSD in BIOS, it is apparently not bootable, and if I detach my hard drive, Enmotus tells me I can't boot without the tiered drive. I watched Linus' video on using Optane instead of a regular SSD and he talked about how PrimoCache did wonders for him. Could I download that and use it to do the job StoreMI couldn't (seperating the drives)?
  7. Can you link an Amazon page or something to buy it from? Not sure what adapter I'm searching for.
  8. Ten days ago, I built my first PC. Here's the list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vxyxbX Everything is working great, but I can't figure out one thing. The case came with this "M/B D-RGB 3 pin" connector for the case's RGB (First photo.) I can't figure out where this thing goes on my motherboard. Everybody from Discord to Reddit is telling me there's a 3 pin addressable RGB header on the top right corner of my motherboard (Second photo,) next to the RAM slots, but I can't find such a header anywhere on this motherboard. Is there an adapter I need? Is the 3 pin header hiding? This isn't essential for my PC, but I thought long and hard about whether I wanted the Phanteks P300 or P350X and eventually went with the latter for its front panel design and RGB. It would be a shame if I can't utilize the feature I bought the $10 more expensive case for.
  9. Absolutely. Just make sure you purchase the same stick the next time, so that your RAM will be dual-channel so you'll see a significant improvement.
  10. Yeah, the 1050 is probably the best deal, unless you can find an RX 560 for less. If you plan to do more with the PC than games and light web browsing, I recommend 8 GB RAM. Otherwise, you're good. If you plan to play some newer popular, high end titles as they come out, I really recommend 8 GB and something a bit more capable than a GT 1030.
  11. They're basically the same, spec and performance wise, and the 2200G is 20 bucks less. And, like I said, the integrated graphics can keep him afloat if anything ever goes wrong with his GPU. Small chance, but a nice-to-have.
  12. Oh! That makes things really easy. That's not a bad budget for that combo. https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Gaming-Ryzen-Motherboard-TOMAHAWK/dp/B06XNSRDZP/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519011413&sr=8-1&keywords=msi%2Bb350%2Btomahawk&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Radeon-Graphics/dp/B079D3DBNM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519011496&sr=1-1&keywords=AMD+Ryzen+3+2200G That should fit your budget.