SINCLR

Hi guys n girls.

I stripped my machine down for a dust and clean yesterday.

Had to remove the dark rock pro 4 to clean the fans..

Long story short thermal paste oozed onto the socket when i took out the cpu!!

Asus tuf z370 plus - 8086k - 

Ive tried alcohol with paper and cotton buds *que tips* nothing can get this last bit out..

My issue being im unable to boot since putting back together yesterday..

System powers on (quietly) but with no video..

Also no peripherals light up..

I have tried shorting the cmos..taking out the batr..doing the hold the power btn for 60seconds.. stripped out the psu for loose plugs..nope..took the aio off the gpu and did the paste again..tried the onboard hdmi out..no change..

The only thing i can think of is maybe this small amount of paste around the mb pins is the cause..?

Im using thermal grizly..

3 minutes ago, Catsrules said:

FYI there are a lot of programs out there that will automate this process.

 

I use Media center master

http://mediacentermaster.com/

 

looks interesting but either downloads fail or windows doesn't like it...

3 minutes ago, Windows7ge said:

Sooo...problem solved? Got anything else while you're here?

i'm currently divorcing and can do whatever i want *mon-fri when i dont have the kids* for the first time in 15yrs....quite frankly i cant think of anything lol

I'm going to be one of those guys that they find dead alone in a lazyboy hahaha

OH FFS

It's cos i was in the search bar looking for titles then backed up to the main folder from that which kept it in some "search mode" view.

*FacePalm

1 minute ago, Windows7ge said:

Well, you can start by posting with a question.

lol cold fingers make booboo

HELP

I've been sorting out all my movies and i've just noticed that movies i've put into separate folders within the main movies folder are STILL SHOWING in the main folder.....

This was not the case last time i was "sorting by name" to find movies in certain series...but now this is what i get.

I cant find any OBVIOUS setting to turn this off....

Please help my OCD is going nuts!!

3 hours ago, jstudrawa said:

You're going to have to up the voltage at 5.1GHz to get it stable, 1.325 isn't that much.  I run that at 5.0GHz and it's rock solid, so try 1.35 or 1.36 for 5.1.

 

Nice Cinebench, I guess.  Is that what you're OC-ing for?   Benchmark numbers?

i either have it at 1.325 or 1.425 @ 5.3ghz but does not like a heavy windows load if you've got alot going on and crashes  - i guess i should just be happy with 5.0ghz

2 hours ago, Jurrunio said:

Trying to reach full potential on a crappy board, bestest logic. 

 

More voltage for 5.1GHz, strong fan for VRM cooling.

lol yes it was the first part in collecting for an upgrade from AMD fx-6350

graphics is still the old 390x 8gb im afraid 

What board would you suggest?

3 hours ago, jstudrawa said:

You're going to have to up the voltage at 5.1GHz to get it stable, 1.325 isn't that much.  I run that at 5.0GHz and it's rock solid, so try 1.35 or 1.36 for 5.1.

 

Nice Cinebench, I guess.  Is that what you're OC-ing for?   Benchmark numbers?

nah just want it stable - I need it to run CAD etc well

Hi guys n girls 

Could you advise which settings i would want to play with for overclocking my 8086k? Running on an Asus Tuf Z370 Gaming Plus

ALL i have ever played with is cranking it to 5.3ghz and increasing the core voltage to 1.425

I still get random crashes/restarts even when only running it at 5.1ghz and 1.325

What else can i play with here to overclock it to it's full potential?

Current best Cinebench R20 score 4008cb @ 5.3ghz and 1.425

Cooling her with the Dark Rock Pro 4

15 minutes ago, Norwegiantweaker said:

do you reboot that often that its an actual issue ?. you could probably fix it but youd probably end up messing something else up along the way ive learned that the hard way when it comes to win 10 probably reinstalled os 6 times the past 50 days

not really, but once you go black you don't go back ya know lol 

tell me about it, these "plug and play" m.2 drives are a joke, there was no way once you plug it in to get back into windows to use their clone software to move your os over!

I think i went through fresh install like 3 times before i was happy

plug and play my ass 

1 minute ago, Norwegiantweaker said:

to be fair i have noticed all those issues but i havent given them much thought. windows did something weird the other day and installed some updates even tho i thought i had turned all that shit off

so frustrating - going from 3 second boot to ....imo....slower than mechanical drive boot!

hmmmmmm

https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/news/microsoft/windows-is-slower-after-april-2019-updates-according-to-users/

3 minutes ago, Norwegiantweaker said:

how much space do you have free on the SSD?

have you checked that the bios settings have not been changed

have you installed a windows update if so wich one and what OS Build do you have 

just updated samsung firmware - no effect.  

1 minute ago, Boinbo said:

I mean, windows boot time depends on your SSD/HDD iirc. So in that case, it would be either your ssd is freaking out, or it doesn't work well with your motherboard.

yeah it's been fine for ages now hmmmmm im sure the samsung software tests it,....hold plz

5 minutes ago, Boinbo said:

Is your Bios completely updated?

could this be something to do with windows 1903?

2 minutes ago, Boinbo said:

Is your Bios completely updated?

yup - not a "new" build -  has been running fine for gosh at least a month since i put the evo in and did a clean install 

Oki doki Guys n Girls, 

My brain hurts. WHY would my system go from (i shit you not) 3 second boot into windows to lagging on the windows circle for a good 20 seconds now!

I'm running an Asus z370 tuf gaming plus motherboard

Intel 8086k

Trident z 3200mhz

MSI R9  390x 8gb ( i know i've got kids and im poor i was lucky to get all the new build parts as it was ....another $1200 on a gpu my wife would kill me)

boot drive is a samsung 970 evo plus 250gb

I cant think of anything specific that i've installed or done that would have caused this slow down in boot....

Hi people, 

I've recently moved house and we now have a dead zone at the end of the house (poor daughter gets no wifi in her room)

We are on Fibre1000 with the std "ultrahub" router/modem from the isp.  from this i run a network cable down to my office in the dead zone where i have a tp link switch set up for my pc etc..

I've been looking at these plug in "range extenders" that repeat OR Ap mode....

What i want is to NOT have to select different networks from our devices depending on what end of the house we are at...

Am i better off with one of these plug in jobs...which in my mind i would have connected to the switch 24/7  OR getting a cheap router like the AC6 and do the disable DCHP thing turning it into an extension of the network?.... 

I'm leaning towards the AC6 solution but NEED some input from people who KNOW what they are talking about  

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

woke up this morning...booted up.......start menu simply wont open...nothing but a 2 sec thinking spin icon and,,,,,,wait for it,........nothing......

nothing helpful on google!

anyone had this issue before know what to do?

I'd rather not spend my whole sunday reinstalling windows etc  

Just now, mr moose said:

A good quality power board would be alright, s the power point is likely just one of 5 others in the house (if not all of them) that are on the same circuit.  In fact my house only has 3 circuits for power, which means  I have my pc, 4 monitors, amp, NAS (another PC), studio equipment,  routers and modem, electric blankets, bed side lights, microwave, electric fan heater, 2x sons PC all running of the same circuit. 

 

But it's also cool if you want to follow the instructions for peace of mind,  I do that too sometimes.

lol yeah 90% of our houses power draw has to be through the 2 sockets in the office haha

1 minute ago, mr moose said:

you could plug a standard power board in before the UPS.   You'd be surprised how much you can ruin off 1 point.

yeah they say not to do that i plug it directly (via and extension cord) into the wall.

2 minutes ago, mr moose said:

I'd be betting it's basically just a power strip from the wall. It says it has full protection, (I.E overload, thermal, surge, short circuit and overcharge).  I would try it.

my project rewiring for the morning. don't want my pc shutting down when i plug in the glue gun haha but im out of wall sockets they have both gone to the 2 ups units 

Hi guys n girls

My 720w ups has 3 outlets for "surge only" and 3 for "surge and battery"....

I want to know does the "surge only" side have a voltage limit or is it basically a powerboard/surge strip from the wall...

eg: can i overload the ups running say a 1500w appliance though the surge only socket on the back or will it be fine acting simply as an extension from the wall with added surge protection.?

my thinking is if it is not providing battery backup anything plugged in should not overload the 720w that is battery backed up...?

i could just plug in a hair dryer and find out but i thought i would do the smart thing and ask first and hopefully by the time i get up in the morning i will have an answer  

the unit is a defender 1200

4 minutes ago, kb5zue said:

I don't think it is Windows that has the problem considering the things that you have done to correct it.  Have you considered that maybe the hub is bad?

shes brand spankers