Computernaut

Any recommendations for engine code scanners? I'm looking to get one since I work with and around a fair number of older and/or more rundown vehicles. Thanks in advance.

Summary Microsoft have announced their intention to disable NTLM, mainly for security reasons. NTLM is used by many services as a way to integrate Windows/Microsoft-based authentication rather than a separate authentication systems (this is my understanding). They had this to say in an article from October 11: This topic grew into quite a spirited discussion on the r/sysadmin sub-reddit, with a number of amusing comments, a well as a whole load of very legitimate concerns (link in sources). In as much as Microsoft likes to change things seemingly arbitrarily, this shift (obtrusive though it is) does make sense, since NTLM is essentially a Protocol of Theseus at this point with how many patches on top of patches on top of patches just to make it secure enough for the modern IT world. Sources Microsoft Article Reddit thread

I looked into it and it seems that the drive in indeed MacOS-based. I'm currently attempting a recovery using HFSExplorer. Thanks so much for your help!

A brand called G-Drive. It was a 2.5" drive enclosure with a USB 3.0 Type-B connection.

No idea, but I doubt it since our environment is almost exclusively Windows-based.

The File System in MiniTool shows up as "Other." There is also no "Change letter" option like there is for normal partitions.

I can't tell since the Properties option for the partitions is greyed out.

Nope, just 1 TB.

I found an old drive at work recently and was tasked with discovering what is on it. It was originally in an external enclosure, but the enclosure is broken so I took out the hard drive and connected it directly to my computer via SATA. Disk Management reports two partitions on the disk, but I am unable to do anything with them (all options are greyed out save for Delete Volume, which I don't want to do in case there is important data there). I tried using PowerShell to assign drive letters to these mystery partitions, and while PowerShell itself seemed to think the command worked, neither Disk Management or File Explorer can find any drive letter. Thoughts?

Are there any that you would recommend specifically? A lot of them are weirdly difficult to find.

I'm always a little skeptical of some of the cheaper brands, since they tend to lack polish. The antitrust debacle with Huawei also makes me a little suspicious of Chinese brands specifically. Apologies if I'm starting to sound insanely picky at this point. I'm not really a Samsung fan, and I know they trust their branding too much (they're the Apple of the Android world in many ways). I actually rejected some of the other A-series phones because of this. The A54 stood out though, especially in the camera department, which is why I'm not dead set against it. As for performance, I'm not a power-user (at all) so, while I like my phone to be snappy, I don't really need flagship-tier specs. If given the choice, I'd much rather have a nice screen and good software. With that in mind, the best of the Chinese phones you sent a list for would be the Infinix Note 30 VIP, but I can hardly even find anywhere to buy it, let alone anywhere reputable.

Honestly it's a personal preference. But there are some practical uses too. For example, if I were to visit a different country I could just pop in a local sim and be all set. I don't travel much, but I like to have the option. I don't intend to change carriers, but again, having the option is nice.

No. I prefer the flexibility and ownership of having an unlocked device that I can do what I want with.

I've had my current phone, an LG G6, for two years now. I love it for many reasons, but it's practically geriatric by smartphone standards and is starting to show some of that age. I looked at quite a few reviews today, but I want to make the most informed decision possible and it's been a while since I was properly tapped into the smartphone world. In general, these are my requirements: Budget: CAD $250-$500 3.5mm jack MicroSD or 256+ GB Good rear camera Fingerprint reader There are also some "bonus" features/qualifications I might be willing to part with if the phone is on the cheaper end: IP ingress protection 90+ Hz display Good speakers Mainstream/well-known brand With all that in mind, I was looking at the Motorola Moto G72. I also really liked the Samsung Galaxy A54 and the Google Pixel 6a, but they don't have a headphone jack so unless I can find a really good deal on one, I'm not too inclined to do that.

So we just gonna pretend there wasn't someone called Anthony who worked for LMG for years?

I looked for that thread but couldn't find it. Did they remove it completely?

Why would rods cause that (out of curiosity)?

Not sure if this is the right place, but what are your thoughts on this sounds my engine (VQ35DE) makes when slowing down? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VL9wbWenwZyjijGzCH2BNPfkGCTgH70L/view?usp=sharing

I remember seeing an LTT video quite some time ago where Linux repeatedly said "Dang it, Jake!", but I don't remember the context/situation. I've been trying to find the video, but no luck. Does anyone happen to remember what video that was?

Thanks! I tried an actual game and yup, it went right up to around 1,800 MHz. I had no idea Furmark did that (glad I mentioned it too so you could let me know).

I thought of that, but it doesn't totally make sense. You can see in the graphs that the clocks were low even before the card got hot. It's also still running at its full TDP, if it was throttling, it would be lower, no?

I've discovered a strange issue with my 2060S. For no apparent reason, it has trouble running faster than about 1,500 MHz. As I understand it, my card should be able to hit ~1,750 MHz or more quite easily. I first noticed this when I decided today to try and under-volt it, though I expect it's always been like this and I merely didn't notice (I noticed the issue before changing any settings). This is an MSI Afterburner screenshot I took while running Furmark and using the default fan curve: As you can see, the clock hovers around ~1,400 MHz, but the card is still hitting its ~175W TDP. According to TechPowerUp, even a founders card (I have a dual-fan Gigabyte Windforce) should hit 1650 MHz or so. If it wasn't running at TDP, I'd guess it was a temps problem, but the card not clock higher before heating up. I re-installed ("Game-Ready") drivers before taking the screenshot, so that shouldn't be the issue either.

Windows is already installed with all applicable drivers and such. That's not the issue. The issue is that, though the OS knows it's not activated and complains about it, going into the activation tab in Settings yields and aforementioned error.

A built a new PC about a month ago and installed Windows onto the new boot drive (using a bootable USB made with Microsoft's Media Creation Tool). I have a product key, but I am not able to enter it as the activation page for windows simply says "We can't reach a critical Windows service. Make sure you're connected to the Internet, wait a few minutes, and try activating again. Error code: 0x80070426" Nothing I'm doing seems to work. I've tried a various ways of deactivating and reactivating a number of services and such, as that seemed to be a common theme among the solutions I found online, but that didn't help.

The score from Cinebench was 15230. The CCD and CPU package were roughly 90 degrees the whole time with the cores in the 85-90 range. Clocks still seemed decently high though and it pulled around 135 watts the whole time. I'm just not used to having a CPU that runs this hot, even if it technically is within spec, so I was wondering if I had done something wrong.