bebejapes

i would keep that 64gig kit 128 is unesseary if you keep the system for a few years and then upgrade maybe the ram gets cheaper and then you can safe cost when it becomes nesessary. I live quite well with 32gig just my opinion tho

Clear CMOS after updating the BIOS. If the 3600 works just fine, the 5600 may be bad.

just get a aftermarket cooler dont use the stock cooler.

Update: it may be the monitor though I don't know. I tried another thing anyway. I downloaded the amd chipset drivers which I apparently forgot to do and after restarting it doesn't glitch out

another thing I have noticed is that the glitching goes away by itself after some time from turning it on.

However a new problem has reared its head:

I was thinking the same thing. Some games of course don’t allow you to change it, others do. It’s really a matter of finding the sweet spot since 90 is standard, so 105-115 seems to work the best.
naturally, if the game supports it
forget what game I increased it to max but whoa, no stretching but you’d turn ur camera and would be like 180 degree view lol. Insane
still have to agree, it’s a FOV issue as most games don’t anticipate people to have 32:9 monitors
havent tried on my other 16:9 displays but I imagine the problem would be gone completely

try 3200 instead or 3600. @lilotus.FRM is right.

Had a similar issue on my PC. I just manually OC'd my ram to 3400 Mhz instead of 3600 Mhz and never had issues since.

when i install more softwares/apps in windows sandbox, i keep getting error "The connection to the sandbox was lost. Would you like to submit feedback about this issue?", how do i fix it?

you need to be the witcher and take out the enemy creating the artefacting

No worries i'm glad i was able to help. What thermal paste did you use?

you need to be the witcher and take out the enemy creating the artefacting

Did you just ran prime 95? Because the errors it produces don't necessarily crash your system. Core cycler runs prime 95 on each CPU core for a couple of minutes before going to the next one and checks if the results it produces are fine. (https://github.com/sp00n/corecycler). If you run this for lets say at least 3 iterations without problems you are probably fine.
 
It could be that the degradation of your PSU is causing your CPU to run ever so slightly less stable (because the power it gets is less stable). If you are running it at the limit with curve optimizer, that could push it over the brink. But I actually don't know if it works that way.
 
Then you have a couple of options.
Heavily undervolt your GPU and see if you are happy with that performance and hope that everything else is fine. (I wouldn't just take off 10% of the power, because than you could run into the problem again in some time) RMA the PSU, if it still has warrenty RMA the GPU and hope that it fixes it Buy a new PSU and hope that it fixes the problem. I can't really see what other options you have.

nvidia: this gpu consumes X power, so this wattage should be suffucient
silverstone: we cannot guarantee that our 800 watt psu will handle the kick-in-the-stomach transient spikes of this GPU.

It could be that your PSU degraded (which they do over time), so it isn't able to handle what ever power draw you need at load anymore. So it is definitely worth a try.
 
Just to test it out, you could go into afterburner and set the power limit to 80% and see what happens. If you still black screen, you could go lower. But at that point you should maybe think about investing in a new PSU, especially if you already used your current one for years
 

well hahaha true no 3080 super. hahaha thanks for your input theres another thread where the guy ran his rig with that and it worked for a while but now black screens.

afaik there's no such thing as a 3080 super
Silverstone since the 30 series are notorious for having big transient spikes so it would be better to over spec on the psu for the 30 series

That is just false information. NVIDIA recommends 750w. Assuming NVIDIA bakes in some extra headroom even with the highest end CPU and I added another 100w on top of that doesn't seem likely. Along with the fact I have been using it for years without issue. This is a recent issue.

I did just that.
Just look how horrible that factory application was.

 
Now my hotspot temp is 88 Celsius under a full load and staying pretty quiet. Which is a good place to be for a 3080Ti. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

Well i have a 5900x and im not even hitting 100c on hotspot. max temp with load on my cpu is 60c and hotspot is less than that.

well he/she (cant tell the gender) was expressive but at the same time i feel @Queen Chrysalis is being passionate about the subject. but to be fair im also using 64gb ram and i do a  bit of editing.

It's defending you from it's self. jokes aside. was there any update recently?

i agree with @Fred Castellum it just might be the uploaded quality

I think you are overthinking it. The 750w or 850w or 1000w will only deliver what your components are drawing... the rest is all headroom. If your system only draws 500w, then the 750 is actually working harder to provide it compared to the 850. I think with the components you've selected, a 750w PSU will be sufficient. You will get into trouble if you start overclocking your CPU and GPU at the same time and to extreme levels. You really won't need to overclock your CPU for gaming, so there is some headroom there if you really want to crank more fps from your GPU.
 
I understand what AMD is recommending for your GPU, but since you are buying a card made by ASRock, what do they recommend?
 
I would spend a bit more on your M.2 drive and upgrade to a 2 TB minimum.
 
Is $300 a good price for an AIO and five RGB fans?

Like a pre-setup install? They're are two main ways of installing an OS and both require you to do it, afaik there is no automatic software that will just install an OS on a new build/ uninitialized drive with zero effort, the two most popular ways to install an OS are: 1. Just using the installer USB, once installed it is in the OOBE/first time setup and you can just leave it there for the person to setup. Or 2. Setting up a template OS on another SSD or HDD and using it as a clone drive, then using cloning software in a portable OS such as Winpe and cloning the template OS to the new drive. However this option would take longer than a simple fresh install.
 
The only thing that I can think of that you may be looking for is running a PXE installer off of your network using Microsoft Configuration Manager. Which is typically only done by organizations to install enterprise. And requires quite a bit of setup and a dedicated ethernet lan setup for the computers. 
 
The quickest and easiest way to install a fresh copy of Windows and have it go into the OOBE/ first time setup is to just use an install USB, it takes 5 to 10 minutes if even that on a system with an SSD to get the install to where you are saying you want it. With 95% of that being the actual install time. If you're just wanting to leave it on the OOBE/ first time setup. Even if you were to setup a PXE Installer it would take the same amount of time for the install. 

yeah thats fine