Jawad14

some meme song

I ran this benchmark using the NiceHash software for mining cryptocurrency, and this what showed on my screen after a couple minutes. I'm using a GeForce GTX 1080 Ti from Asus (Strix) on stock speeds. The GPU's temprature was about 62 Celsius. Can someone explain what does this mean? Thanks !!

I'm willing to buy fans from UpHere that have A-RGBs in them, and will be installing them on a ASUS ROG X570-E motherboard which has A-RGB Gen2 Connectors. So will these A-RGB fans work on them? Or will I have some issues? And whats the difference between A-RGB Gen1 and Gen2?

Not the XL, the normal white one. I'm aiming for a Strix 2080Ti from Asus ROG, I think thats considered as long since it comes in 2.5 slots or something like that. So in conclusion, a Kraken X72 AIO will stop the Asus ROG Strix 2080Ti right?

Does the Kraken X72 360mm AIO watercooler radiator fit in this case on the side? https://www.amazon.com/Lian-Li-PC-O11DW-Tempered-Computer/dp/B07F9TC5W7/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=lian%2Bli&qid=1573247434&sr=8-1&th=1 There are 2 form factors of this case, one in full tower and the second one in Mid tower, but I am looking for the full tower. Anyways, I would like to know for both form factors whether each one has the capabilities of containing the Kraken X72 360mm AIO watercooler radiator on the side. I know that it fits of the top of the case, but my real question is: Does it fit on the side? (Because I have read online that only certain thicknesses of radiators will be capable of being installed in the side compartment of the case, whether it is a Mid Tower or a Full Tower of the same company case name, which is Lian Li).

wow okay got it. So just confirm this to me .. the 2080Ti(s) that are OC will be the TU102-300A-K1-A1 ..... On the other hand, 2080Ti(s) that are non-OC will be the TU102-300-K1-A1 , is that right? Or thats not really necessary? Second thing is that how to know which card on the market is the A version of the 2080Ti and which one is not? Because am soon going to be building a PC for myself and am planning on slapping a 2080Ti from ASUS, the Strix version on it.

Anybody has a great and simple guide on how to easily overclock the i7-8700K? I don't really wanna go into the BIOS stuff cuz am not that familiar with it, but if I have to, then I'll happily do it! My i7-8700K runs a maximum clock of 4.3Ghz which is not that interesting. I'm looking to overclock it to about 4.7Ghz or 4.8Ghz, even 5.0Ghz if possible. I do have an AIO liquid cooler installed from Corsair, the 280mm one, so I believe am good to go for a great overclock!

Whats the difference between an OC card and a non-OC one? For example, the RTX 2080Ti comes in 2080Ti OC and 2080Ti non-OC. And is it worth to spend a little more money to get the OC version of a graphics card like the 2080Ti OC ?

I had the game installed on my "Samsung 970 Evo NVME SSD 256GB". So I uninstalled it from there and installed it on my 2.5" HDD that I've ripped off my laptop (a 2TB HDD). I then played 3 matches on the game and my PC didn't crash surprisingly! This seems to work, because I never had the game not-crashing 3 times in a row after I've updated the BIOS. Am still going to play more later on and will write an update on whether this solution has worked or not, but its working till now, and thanks to you!!

Since I've updated my ASUS Prime x470-pro motherboard's BIOS to the latest version from asus.com , I started facing this weird issue. Usually now when I play League of Legends, when the game is either ended on a defeat or victory, the whole computer just freezes and becomes unresponsive at all, I can't tab out and can't even do ALT+F4 or even CTRL+ALT+DEL , so I just force shutdown the PC by holding the power button for about 4 or 5 seconds. Even the animation of the game freezes, but sound keeps rolling. I tried reinstalling the game, and tried repairing the game from its own client, but the problem persisted. I'm using a Ryzen 7 2700x with 16Gb RAM G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3200Mhz. Moreover, since I updated the BIOS, I realized something weird in the Task Manager, on the page of "Memory". I've attached a picture of it. I can't see the RAM's speed, and hardware reserved memory is ZERO, in-which I actually before updating the BIOS it had some value instead of ZERO. and there seems like a couple of chunks of information that was on that page has suddenly disappeared after the BIOS update. So am not sure about whats really happening right now and would like some recommendations on what to do regarding this problem, cuz until now I've force-shutdown-ed my PC about 7 times because of this issue, and would not like to keep force-shutting down my PC because I don't think thats a good thing to do always. All this happened after the BIOS update, so does this mean I have to downgrade to my older BIOS to avoid this problem? Because on the older version of the BIOS, everything ran so smooth and nice.

But this problem never happened until I updated the BIOS. Maybe if I downgrade my BIOS the problem's gonna be solved?

I'm powering it with a EVGA SuperNova 750W G3 , but I haven't plugged the PSU directly into the wall. But instead, I have it plugged into an extension from Terminator that can withstand 3000W, in-which it contains 4 plugs, and I use the first one for the PC, second for the Monitor which is a ASUS PG279Q, third for some RGB lights, and fourth for an LED clock.

I have nothing overclocked except for the GPU overclocked by using a preset from ASUS's own app which is "GPU Tweak", in-which am on OC mode. Never touched anything regarding "undervolted" and didn't even mess with the ratios in BIOS, but I have the "Performance" preset selected in the BIOS instead of the "Normal" one.

Since I've updated my ASUS Prime x470-pro motherboard's BIOS to the latest version from asus.com , I started facing this weird issue. Sometimes when I play League of Legends and the game is either ended on a defeat or victory, the whole computer just freezes and becomes unresponsive at all, I can't tab out and can't even do ALT+F4 or even CTRL+ALT+DEL , so I just force shutdown the PC by holding the power button for about 4 or 5 seconds. I'm using a Ryzen 7 2700x with 16Gb RAM G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3200Mhz. Since I updated the BIOS, I realized something weird in the Task Manager, on the page of "Memory". I've attached a picture of it. I can't see the RAM's speed, and hardware reserved memory is ZERO, in-which I suppose before updating the BIOS it had some value instead of ZERO. and there seems like a couple of chunks of information that was on that page has suddenly disappeared after the BIOS update. So am not sure about whats really happening right now and would like some recommendations on what to do regarding this problem, cuz until now I've force-shutdown-ed my PC about 5 times because of this issue.

Thanks man, you really did solve my problem. I owe you And just two quick questions .. first, do I have to remove the "Windows Boot Manager" as well? This question might be silly, but am curious about it because I thought that the "Boot Configuration Store's" purpose is to store all the operating systems directories. Here's a picture of my command prompt with the information about "bcdedit /v" is displayed, where you can see the "Windows Boot Manager" at first, and followed by "Windows 10 Pro". Second, I have my Windows 10 Pro installed on a 256GB of Samsung's 970Evo NVMe SSD, and I still experience slow boot times (about 1 minute to boot). However on the other hand, I have an HP laptop that has got a 512GB of HyperX SATA SSD, and can boot in about 10 seconds! I don't understand why my PC with an NVMe SSD takes much more time to boot than my laptop with a SATA SSD. Is it because I have lots of programs installed on my HDD? Does that affect the performance of the NVMe SSD?

I have this 'OS selection menu' that comes up every time my PC boots up. I wanna get rid of it because I only have one OS which is Windows 10 Pro on the latest update which is version 1803 (OS build 17134.829). I just want my PC to choose 'Windows 10 Pro' every time I boot my PC, because its the only operating system I have installed on my PC. Note: I have a 2TB HDD installed in my PC. Its a 2.5" that I took it off my laptop. It used to have Windows 10 Home, but I have deleted all the Windows 10 Home files and made sure that there are no hidden ones as well. The picture attached is not from my PC, I just got it from Google to explain what I really am getting. Instead of the options in the attached picture, am getting: Windows 10, Windows 10 Pro, Windows 10 Home. Please Help.

It does have, this one right?

So what kind of RGB Strip lights that are good qualities that I could use to pair them with Asus Aura?

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So I want to put some RGB Strips inside my PC case, but I want good quality RGB Strips, and I also want them to be synchronized by the Asus Aura Sync Software. So I was thinking of buying the Corsair RGB Strips since they are amazing, and was planing on plugging them into my Prime X470-Pro Motherboard directly via the 4-pin 12V RGB HEADER that is located at the very bottom of the motherboard. But then I was curious whether or not these RGB Strips will be synchronized with the Asus Aura Software since they are put straight into the motherboard itself or not. This idea popped up into my mind because of my PC case which has an RGB strip built-in and I can control it from the Asus Aura Software because it's plugged into my motherboard. So since the RGB Strip on my case can be synchronized with the Asus Aura Software, then the Corsair RGB Strips should also be synchronized with the Asus Aura Software since I am going to plug them directly into my motherboard, just like I did to the RGB Strip of my case. What do you guys think? Will this work? And why? My CASE: Deepcool EARLKASE RGB (White Color Case) Motherboard: Asus Prime X470-PRO Corsair RGB STRIPS that am willing to install: https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-CL-8930002-RGB-Lighting-Expansion/dp/B073VKPM4D/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537029870&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+strip+rgb

I’ve got a PC that has a lot of RGB lights on it’s hardware, but am missing out on the RGB LED Strips on the edges of the case. So I’m looking for some good RGB LED Strips that I could pair them with my PC and control them by using Asus Aura Sync to synchronize thier lightings with the other RGBs inside the PC. I don’t care about price, I care about quality and reliability. What kind of RGB LED Strips would you guys recommend for me? Please leave a link to the product and explain to me why did you recommend it to me, thanks!

Eyo guys I found a solution to my problem. It turns out that the Windows 10 OS in my HDD was ****ing me up .. it was interfering with my original Windows 10 Pro in my M.2 NVMe SSD. So I deleted the one thats in the HDD with all of its related files and left the one in the M.2 NVMe SSD, and things worked out just fine! Thank you guys for trying to help me!

PC Specs: CPU: Ryzen 7 2700X - 8 cores Motherboard: Asus Prime X470-PRO RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB DDR4 3200Mhz (2x 8GB) GPU: Strix 1080ti 11GDDR5X Cooler (CPU): NZXT Kraken x62 Case Fans: UpHere RGB Fans Storage: 2TB HDD 2.5" / 256GB Samsung M.2 970EVO (System on M.2) PSU: EVGA 750 G3 Case: DEEPCOOL EARLKASE RGB (White case) OS: Windows 10 Pro ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This Problem started after I have built my Gaming/Editing PC, and it actually happens rarely (happened 4 times until the time of this message, and the PC was built 8 days ago from this message). So the problem exactly is as follows: I start up my computer with all these fancy RGBs and everything is fine. I use the computer for a few hours and then suddenly, the screen goes black and displays "NO SIGNAL" , as if there is not source to display, and I have a Razer Mamba Tournament Edition Mouse that switches off its RGB lights ass soon as the screen goes black, and I also have a Razer Firefly RGB mouse pad that it's RGB lights go off too! Ofcource, the mouse is not working at this point. As for the keyboard, I have a Razer Blackwidow Chroma V2. So when the screen goes black with "NO SIGNAL" displaying on the screen, Mouse is off with all RGB lights on it are off, and the mouse pad RGBs are off too, my keyboard lights stay ON, but its light cycle stops at the point that is has reached. So lets say I have a red wave of RGB moving on my keyboard .. as soon as this problem occurs, the wave stops as where is reached and stays there as constant. Now coming to the PC itself, when this problem happens, the PC RGB lights are ALL still ON and cycling through the effect that I have assigned them for. So the PC becomes unresponsive. I try to press random keys on the keyboard but nothing happens. I press CTRL+ALT+DEL and nothing happens. I try to hold down the power button on the case to force shut it down but that doesn't even work and doesn't do anything. Even if I press the power button once, it doesn't do anything. So the PC stays ON with all its RGB lights on and cycling in their effect, while the mouse and mousepad RGB lights are OFF and the keyboard RGB lights are ON but are stuck constant on the effect that I have assigned them for. I tried leaving the PC like this for some time but nothing seems to change. So the only solution that I came up with is to switch it OFF from the wall power which is not good, but I have no other choice, because I have to turn off the PC and not leave it just like that hanging around and not responding. So after I switch the wall power OFF, I turn it back ON and press the power on the PC, and it starts up no problem, but then it doesn't start up like it usually does, because usually it starts up with an ASUS logo with their moto, followed by the windows screen that I have to type my password on. So instead, it shows the ASUS logo with their moto as usual but then, the windows 10 logo shows up in the top middle screen with a dotted circle effect in the bottom middle screen circulating around. After that, a light blue screen shows up with 3 choices to press on: 1- Windows 10 2- Windows 10 Pro 3- Windows 10 Home Language So I choose number 2 obviously (Windows 10 Pro), because it's the OS that I have installed on my M.2 . {{{I really don't know where the other two OSs came from. But actually, on my 2.5" HDD I had Windows 10 Home Language, because this HDD was from my laptop. So I took the HDD out from my laptop and placed it in the PC as storage to get more space for installing some programs and heavy games like GTA V. When I realized that I have Windows 10 Home Language on my HDD, I deleted it and restarted my PC which made no difference at all! I still saw the 3 choices again when the problem occurred in a future time after deleting that windows folder from the HDD.}}} After choosing that, I boot immediately into windows 10 pro with the password screen there. I type my password and login to my PC as if nothing have ever happened. So I just don't really understand the core of this problem. I'm pretty sure that my Kraken x62 is well mounted on the CPU, I even took my PC to some "Gaming PC Experts" and showed them everything and they told me that my PC has no issues (This was before I even know about this problem). I made sure of the RAMs being snug and tight on the channels. I also made sure of the wires that are plugged into the motherboard and also checked the GPU and its pretty good and snug in it's channel. My PC thermals are very good: CPU idle at 37 to 48 C (Never overclocked anything on my PC) and goes to about 60 C when under load, like playing GTA V on ultra settings. GPU idle on about 34 C usually, but its currently 30 C as I write this message. The GPU fans are set to AUTO, so they start spinning when under load, and as load gets higher, they spin faster. I think the fastest they have gotten when I like played GTA V on ultra settings in about 43%. When I play a game like this on ultra, the glass on the case feels hot to the touch were the GPU is, but not very hot to the limit that I can't put my hand there for a long time. I have my two 140mm radiator fans in-taking air to the case from the bottom side, and my three UpHere fans exhausting air from the top and the other upper side (Two of the UpHere fans are on top of the case and one of them is right next to the other two but placed on the side of the case). My PSU has an "ECO" switch on it that I have never used. I bought my RAM on a speed of 3200Mhz. But when I put them in, their speeds where about 2133Mhz, So I overclocked them to 3200Mhz. I use my Samsung 56" TV as my monitor for now, and willing to buy a high refresh rate monitor soon. I use internet on an Extender device that pulls WiFi from the source. I then use a 2 meter ethernet cable to connect from the Extender device to my PC. (Internet speeds on my PC is 60Mbps Download and 50Mbps Upload). I built this PC for exactly $2337.88 (Including shipping and taxes).

Thanks man, I really didn't know about that. If it weren't for you, I would've maybe bought the one with the 7th gen cpu.

I'm planning to buy a pc in 2018 which is the MSI trident 3. I really like this pc and I think that it is suitable for me because I wanna play video games on 1080p 60fps ultra settings preset as a maximum willingness for myself. So what do you think, is this pc quite old for 2018? Do you think there might be something much better than the MSI trident 3 in 2018 or in a couple of coming months? In-short, give me some pros and cons of buying this pc in this kind of time! And remember, am looking for a small form factor that is quiet, powerful, and lives long. MSI Trident 3 CPU: Intel Core i7-7700 | Graphics: Nvidia GeForce GTX 1070 8GB VRAM | RAM: 16GB DDR4 (2,400MHz) | Storage: 1TB HDD + 256GB SSD