darcymccracken

the thing is the battery plugs into (or next to) that box with the black tape cover... you really just need a new battery for your board, that should come with the appropriate "soldered on" cables.
 
this is pretty standard actually (although highly consumer and environmentally unfriendly of course) 
 
 
if you still have warranty and they do it, i suggest that route. 
 
although technically an empty battery probably isn't a warranty case. 

There's a high chance your CMOS battery is dead.
 
How to detect a CMOS battery failure : Computer is refusing to boot the Operating System. 

There is a guide here on the basics: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-clean-and-format-storage-drive-using-diskpart-windows-10

You don't want the power switch to have a constant connection in the On state since what a power switch does is - it connects the ground wire (black) and the +5V (green wire) for a few moments.

3-pin fans are controlled by adjusting the voltage, which becomes a problem because the motors need a minimum voltage in order to turn. So you're likely not going to get anything less than say 50% out of a 3-pin fan.
 
4-pin fans always run at their operating voltage. The PWM signal just "kicks" the motor periodically. So you have a much wider range of RPMs.

I'd go with the 8700. Get an Asus board, or one that lets you turbo lock the chip.
 
Welcome to the forum

Yes, the two components uses different software to control the RGB lighting.
 
So to control graphics card lighting, you need to use the Aura software (which you can grab from your cards support page under Drivers & Utilities), and Mystic Lighting to control the motherboard's lighting.

I've been building PCs for about a decade now. Never encountered that issue. I've also transported many PCs for fairly long distances via car (therefore creating fairly high shock stress to the components). Never had any issues. I would not worry about it, especially if you install the board and cooler properly. As @W-L said, there is a reason why CPU coolers include a backplate  

It's not an issue, the heatsink has a large backplate to help distribute the forces for mounting. 

Why do you want AIO? I used one as a first system builder, and kinda regretted it (somewhat).
 
The good things about them is that they have fancy LEDs, cool really well, can be installed easily and can deliver heaps of cooling at reasonably low noise.
The issue is that they're typically more expensive than a comparable air cooler, louder, more prone to leaks, less reliable, more easy to break.
 
Let me explain: I have a top of the line (when I bought it) Corsair H115i because I wanted the best on the market, because I never wanted to worry about temperatures again, and wanted a really quiet rig. The first issue was that the corsair software broke all the time (most likely due to a USB hub, but still) meaning that I had no easy way to control the unit, and it reverted to its "normal" (uncomfortably loud) setting whenever this happened.
Then the pump died, temps were over 100 degrees, and then the computer straight refused to boot. If it was on a day where a project was due, I would have been screwed. On the top of the line corsair cooler. I got it replaced under warranty, but I had to pull out my stock cooler, buy some extra thermal paste, it was a pain.
After the replacement unit, it too was pretty damn loud and had the same issues with the Corsair software. Because the included fan leads were too short to reach my motherboard, I replaced it with some of the best fans on the market, and they are super silent (never hear them).
Now, the pump is by far the loudest part of my whole system at idle, and while it's not too bad it does get annoying.
 
Would I have bought an AIO if I knew what I did now for my own personal system? Probably.
Would I recommend other people getting one? I'm not so sure.
My pump died, I've had a lot of issues getting it to be as quiet as expected, spent twice as much as an air cooler all up, and it's still louder than a comparable air cooler. Granted, it does look very nice and cools really really well, but is that really worth it?
 
@JDE is saying that coolermaster units are leaky. I haven't heard that many stories of happening, but I do know that coolermaster doesn't have the best reputation on the market on making reliable, quiet, easy to work with units. For example, cords always kinked, heaps of pump wine (especially on things like the Fury X using a coolermaster designed cooler), them breaking etc.
 
Seriously reconsider this choice.

If you have a 3pin header for your pump, use a sys_fan header. If it's 4pin, use the cpu_fan header.
You can set an rpm curve from the motherboard settings the same way as for other fans connected to the motherboard.

i don't really seem to find the same information as you, is it not this board or am i mistaken?
either im not awake or i can't find anywere on msis product specs that the board should have anything to do with direct x.
if you have found it somewhere it could be because msi states that it will support 8th gen celeron cpus, not sure but there might be variants of those that dont support dx12 and then msi have stated it like unsupported instead of giving false hope
 
but like the rest have said, as long as you just get a separate newer gpu and windows 10 then you are golden

It is something you should not care for if you are using a dedicated graphics card