ryanf257
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Everything posted by ryanf257
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Hi all. I have a pretty decent build in my Cooler Master Masterbox Lite 3.1 and I like it very much. I would like to mod it a bit to keep noise down, but PLEASE keep in mind my temperatures are FINE. 70C on GPU and 40-53C on CPU under load (game dependent). I have two Cougar Vortex 120mm fans, one intake, one exhaust. So in the picture there's only one, but there's two now. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553002 I mostly want a way to make that front panel A. more open B. have better airflow, maybe add a mesh filter of some sort and C. Avoid the bulge of front headers if I were to just completely remove the front plastic piece. Honestly, in the end, I just want it to be more unique. Note: I don't have easy access to 3D printing, CNC machines, etc., but I do have a plethora of hand tools and saws, dremels, etc.
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You would need to buy a 3rd generation or 4th generation i7 which should be cheap-ish. Also, search for an extra 4gb stick of RAM, you could find one on eBay cheap and you'd get noticeable performance increases. You would buy DDR3 RAM. The GTX 1050 will work in that motherboard too. In Recap: You need a 3rd/4th gen i5 or i7 I'd recommend an extra 4GB of DDR3 Memory And enjoy your gaming machine for your cousin.
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I guarantee it’s your PSU. Check out a new one by swapping it and then your problem will be solved. Order one online—if it’s not the solution return it, simple.
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Please please no
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Yes a good CPU upgrade to a 4 core would do well. Also upgrading that cars would be a plus.
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I’m not saying it’s the best on the market but I have had a good experience and would recommend with performance, style, no Ram interface, and decent installation.
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I should have asked this before I posted my thoughts.
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I would spend a little less on the CPU cooler, go with a Hyper 212Evo or Cryorig H7–they do great for OCing. That processor wayyyy outweighs how strong that card is. The GTX 1050 is better matched with an i3 8100 or ryzen 3 1200. I highly suggest you change the GPU and aim for 16GB of ram if possible. Though I know you said it’s more expensive over there!
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Check out these awesome hydrodynamic bearing fans from cougar. No LEDs, anti vibration, long life, very quiet. <$15. https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16835553002
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H7 is awesome—and sometimes there’s no reason to spend 40euros for 3C less...
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- i5 8600k
- best cooler
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I have had segate for a long time and have no issues. Though I highly trust WD too. Any 7200RPM drive in those brands will do you fine.
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Overall I have no problems with them but when I tried them all out I very much disliked the space at—important in gaming. Other than that they seem fine. The space bar was just super ridgid and weird.
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I like my IPS but it seems that you are more visually knowing than me in your talks of it. I have no ghosting issues with 75hz freesync display. I like the IPS LED I have as it very friendly to the eye and has a Matt finish to the screen opposed to my old glossy monitor.
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If you're playing 1440p or up you'd need the 6GB, if not, 3 would suffice, just know that if you ever upgrade your resolution you'll need to upgrade your card most likely. No matter what, you're overpaying to what price/performance used to be...but welcome to building this day in age. If you can hold off and get everything at once later, maybe you could pick up a new GPU if AMD or Nvidia launches something this summer!
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If you plan on watercooling, you'll still need airflow; but in the meantime: Take that sexy computer you've got there and turn it sideways so you can't see inside of it and give it a good 8 inches or a foot away from that wall that currently its to the solid side panel you have. No, you won't be able to see it, which sucks because it's pretty, but you need to let that thing have some space out the rear where the hot air from your card is going... In the end though, you need frames and not looks, and when you're throttling down like I'm sure you are (especially at how hot those temps are!) you would probably see more FPS by just moving your pc 90 degrees clockwise!
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I'm thinking if you have at least half the PCB, you should get at least $15-20. Having the entire PCB, now that's worth MSRP Follows the same rule as currency, right?
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Competition in the market
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I'd agree with $30-40 if it's fully functioning!
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Have you tried uninstalling AMD settings apps?
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Radeon Settings. The “Host application”
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That was in the 70s
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It says my memory clock is maxed out and core clock goes between 800 and 1100mhz at idle.
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Hi there fellows, Been gaming for a while on my system, all is fine and well, temps are okay and clocks are high. Just now, I noticed my system was bit loud, so I messed with the fan curves (based on system temp as my CPU cooler does the 1700x great, but the airflow is below average). That all seems fine, but my GPU is using 74% at idle... It's doing fine in games, but I have no clue why this suddenly started. I did restart, but it still persisted. Here's a screenshot of all the monitoring stuff, help is appreciated.
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RX480/580 crossfire viable option given current market?
ryanf257 replied to Schwiftybizzness's topic in Graphics Cards
I don’t play Metro. But here’s a few I do play: battlefront 2 2017 70-90fps on ultra pubg high settings 55-75fps I murder Rainbow 6 siege, rocket league, etc witcher 3 I (from memory) get hoggish settings with 60+fps battlefield 4 I get ultra 75+ fps Far Cry 3/4 struggles as it’s so NIVIDIA optimized but plays fine. 40-50fps intense scenes 80+ in mountains/ light fighting. Overall I struggle in NVIDIA optimized games sometime, but see very good settings for my card. I run 75Hz monitor with free sync and find this card can handle most games up there at nice settings. I run with a R7 1700x, 16Gb Ram, MSI RX480 Gaming X 4GB model at 1336 core 1825 mem clock +20% power. Honestly, at the stock 1303 core I don’t see any difference.
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