AngryBeaver

Unless you are buying the cheap tubs of thermal paste the difference in temps are very small. The MX-4 isn't going to be the issue. If you feel temps are high then you can always do a remount to see if that is/was the issue, but those temps don't seem too bad to me. What is the ambient temp in your room? Anyways the fans on that CPU cooler are pretty quiet. The ramping issue is more than likely from your case fans. So tweaking your cpu cooler curve while leveling out the ones for your case could help with noise levels.

Do you use gsync or freesync? Did you forget to turn them off? Also background tasks can really hurt score by a few %

From what I understand if you are cranking memory speeds to mine eth then you will constantly be battling memory temps. You can make out fan speeds and add thermal pads to back plate (if it doesn't have any), etc. I am personally using water for mine and I seem to peak in the mid 50s which I though meant my block sucked, but apparently these memory modules are little fire starters.

Just pickup an h212 on the cheap. It will be more than enough for that cpu.

It is a wonder my 5900x system hasn't melted then since my vrms only get cooling from my radiator fans. Oh wait... my vrm temps under full load are in the 45-55c range. Ya, I think the 60+c of head room is a good indicator that it isn't an issue.

What is everyone seeing for ram temps? I am not sure my block is doing thr best job on them. Under stress testing I see gpu core temps in the sub 40c range, but my ram temps are in the 55-65c range. I know these are hotter than previous gddr used, but I am also concerned that this block isn't doing a great job making firm contact.

For a good loop expect to pay 600-800 ish. If you do decided to go that route then I would strongly consider a new case with better support for it. For those components a single 480mm or 420mm rad would be fine and improve temps... more rad space = less air flow and thus more quiet. In my current setup I am using 1 480 and 1 360 which is overkill, but my temps are mid 50s on a 5900x for all but stress tests which are in the 68-72c range depending on ccx. Now the biggest gains are on my 3080 which top put in the 35-38c range under stress testing conditions. I am using a case friendly to watercooling, p12 fans which are the best bang for thr buck fans you will find (they either tie or beat fans 4x their cost) and running at 1200-1300 rpm inside a glass side case are inaudible. Now if we look at say a 480mm x 60 rad build... then you would spend 150-200 in a good case, 120-150 on the rad, 150 on a d5 pump, 35 bucks on tubing (if soft), 150-200 on gpu block, and 80-150 on a cpu block. Now you will need atleast 8 fittings at 8-12 bucks each. The tubing comes with a premix so if you use that you are looking at less than 2 bucks for a gallon of distilled or about 20bucks per 1000ml if you want a different premix. Then if you go with p12s you can buy a 5 pack for about 30-40 bucks which you will probably need 2. So that means your range is 830 - 1070 for case and required items. I mean yes you can go with much cheaper items and probably do it for 300-400 off aliexpress or ebay, but when it comes to water cooling the better components are worth it. My loop basically stays now with the additions of new blocks for new components.

Less help? Noone is going to encourage you to do something that could get you killed. Are you just unable to afford a new one? If that is the case ping me where you located and let's figure out a better solution.

If this was true you would know better than fiddling with a cheap PSU for no good reason. Even more so when you don't even plan to use it or make it functional. When I was younger I worked in a high voltage lab that tested line workers gear.. which ranged from Low voltage PPE to items designed to protect from cross state power lines. We are talking voltages so high that even with PPE any humidity or sweat would cause the power to ark over their skin which was very unpleasant and left sunburn like places (yet was completely safe). So if you were serious about doing this properly you would have a solid plan in place for doing a slow drain of the caps. A lot of people think you can just arc across the caps with a screwdriver which outside of being dangerous can also fuse the screwdriver to the caps creating a new issue. In any case you will do what you want, but the risk vs reward is non-existent. If you want to fiddle with items like this it is best you take a course and/or do an apprenticeship to learn the RIGHT way.

You do understand that things inside your PSU hold a charge and can 100% kill you. Which is why you should always let it be done by professionals with the correct gear.

So since this is an ongoing issue and not new let's dive more into the actual setup. You are running hdmi to a TV? Then the TV to what a soundbar or a 5.1 receiver? Does this soundbar/receiver have hdmi in/out? If so I would try that. If not then the problem might be a configuration issue on the TV for pass-through mode. It could also be that no matter what the TV is reporting to the gpu(via hdmi or optical from the sound of it) that it is only capable of 2.0 playback regardless of passthrough mode. I mean for this there are a ton of variables. GPU settings, windows sound settings, possible mobo sound settings (if optical). Then you have tv settings and lastly receiver/soundbar settings.

No. I just know someone who almost got one lol

What about a maingearz that is a flat grey with ketchup and mustard cables and no sign of any efficiency sticker?!

If we are talking pure fans I have 8 120mm on the front rad as intake. Then have 6 120mm as exhaust on a second rad... then a single 140mm in the back for exhaust. I have enough room for another 7 120's or 14 if they are push pull on a rad if needed... Might need to add another extremely over kill 360mm rad to the bottom of my case lol

I think most of those items lost their market value as there are so many additives and premixes available for cheap now. I if you buy tubing from say primochill you get a bottle of utopia that makes a gallon worth of coolant. I have a machine running it now that is probably well over due for a coolant change and it still doesn't have any growth or corrosion issues.

Speaking of clocks. My lowly little 3080 was having issues getting to 2k mhz on air, but now after slapping on a waterblock I am seeing 2200mhz from just boosting and an undervolt. My card is stuck with a stupid 320w plimit so it is my limiting factor atm until I find a bios that can bypass it.

I just tested it and mine works fine to a 5.1 or even atmos device. Doing some browsing on google though I did find several cases and fixed for similar issues. #1 people found that one of the newer (probably updated now) versions of Dolby atmos software on the pc was breaking their sound output via hdmi. #2 people using riser cables that were only 3.0 compliant, but not switching it to 3.0 in the bios (it was trying to use 4.0) were having issues of sound cutting in and out or not being able to send over audio in the correct format. #3 some people were having issues with the nvidia audio drivers and after installing them and using the windows drivers the problem went away. Not sure if any of these will apply to your issue, but figured I would drop them here incase they do.

We come back around on the space limit issue of air cooling. So if you lack surface area the only way to improve is to increase airflow which increased sound levels. I mean if you go custom water it should always be to cool both cpu/gpu. My next project is going to be finding or coming up with a solution to cool the x570 chipset. The mobo I have doesn't spin up the fan unless the chipset is over 50c, but once it does it can be audible from time to time.

DLSS 2.0 isn't as limited as 1.0 was on titles. Plus going forward more titles will support it than not. Control - DLSS 2.0 ON vs OFF Comparison - 4k #RTXOn - YouTube IMO the DLSS 2.0 either looks the same and in some cases better than being turned off. It also increased frame rates by almost 100% in some cases As for RT power the 6800xt is on par with the 2080ti. Turn on DLSS though and even the 2080ti beats it slightly. The new cores on the 3080 are just much better at RT than the ones on the 6800xt. As the the better image quality. If there is no discernable difference and you see a massive fps increase that would be better quality in general. We aren't talking talking about using inferior techniques to reduce gpu workload and create more performance at the cost of visual fidelity. We are talking about using an AI engine to leverage TAA and produce a better image at a lower performance cost. I mean AMD is trying to come up with their own solution for it now since the Nvidia implementation has been such a huge success.

The only time I can hear my d5 pump is at 100% speed with the case open. The moment I close the glass side even that becomes inaudible. I can also cool a GPU and CPU with fan speeds set low enough to not be heard. The loudest thing in any case IMO is a GPU under load since those fans are smaller and do become quite audible.

I had the choice between a 6800xt and a RTX3080. I went with the 3080 for several reasons. DLSS - This is a huge and pretty much free performance boost. It often produces much better results when it comes to quality than other options and does it while giving a performance boost. Raytracing - New titles are implementing it and with the new gen of consoles supporting it we will see much more going forward. It makes a huge difference in games that utilized it and the 3080 has MUCH better RT performance. GDDR6x - It is MUCH faster. Yes, you have less vram on the 3080, but when you have enough speed getting stuff into the memory isn't a problem. This is going to improve greatly in a month or so when the resizable bar support hits for Nvidia. Drivers - I have encounter driver issues with almost every single AMD card I have ever owned. I can count on one hand the amount of times Nvidia cards have giving me issues and normally it was something that was quickly fixed via beta drivers or a new hotfix release. When it comes to rasterization sure the 6800xt appears to have a slight edge, but at the fps these cards are pushing for pure raster content it isn't as big of a plus as it use to be. When you look at it you have to look at the whole picture and for me you get a lot of great stuff for the 50 dollar difference between the two cards.

I am not sure I would say one isn't better than another. I mean if we speak generally yes they both do the same thing, but when you look at application ups/downs there are some major advantages to either. Air + Cheaper + Lesser points of failure - Big Air is huge and space constrained Water + More control over access to cool air or directing hot air straight from the system + Less space limited as you can put multiple rads in a single system + Has the potential to be much more quiet than Air cooling - Expensive - Multiple points of failure The truth is while AIR is fine and does a great job, when you get down to it any properly setup loop is going to out perform it in both thermals and noise levels. If looking at an AIO then this changes a little. At the minimum you would need to go with a 280mm system to basically beat a DH15 by a few C, which for the cost isn't worth it. Now once you start looking at 360mm systems the thermals do start to improve even more so. Most people just don't need water cooling. I do it, because I am an enthusiast and like to overclock my components while maintaining great temps. I could still overclock well on big air, but noise and temps would become a bigger problem.

A cheap wifi usb dongle would get it online, but you have a few problems. First getting video to the tv wirelessly isn't going to be cheap. Second, with that setup you won't have much support for never codec standards like h264, h265, etc. So you will be very limited on the content you can play back. Now if you do put the tv close to the tv you could use a dvi > hdmi cable. The problem with that is DVI does not carry audio so you will need to find a solution for getting audio that isn't from your TV. If you had a soundbar or seperate audio solution for this tv then it would be possible, but again if not more money. Your best bet depending on what you want on this tv would be to convert this machine into a plex box (if you have your own movies you want to see) and get the rest of your smart functions from something like a Roku or Firestick. The only limitation with making this machine a plex host is going to be storage capacity and the fact it won't have the power to transcode much, but there you have it.

With newegg when they have inventory come in you can go signup to buy it. Then after 4-6 hours they do a drawing basically to randomly select those that will get their GPU/CPU. It was done to help against bots and give everyone a "more fair" chance according to them.