AngryBeaver

I would undervolt it. You will see a improvement in clocks and probably thermals too.

World of warships is better! As for temps both are well within reason. An easy way to see if air flow is an issue is to take off the side of your case and see where temps are during your gaming sessions. If you see massive improvement then better front fans (high static pressure) will help a lot. If it is only a few C difference then there isn't much of a reason to change anything.

I think the point that is being missed is they removed and then relisted the cards at a higher price. This happened in the states too due to tariffs. So they are telling him he needs to either select the newer listed items with a much higher price or us the money he has for a lesser item that us now in that price range. The problem is months ago he agreed to X item at X price. The fact cards went up is not his fault nor problem. He has a binding agreement with them. Your best recourse is to reach out for one of the cards they have in stock and offer to pay the difference in cost of the card 3 months ago (since that is when the transaction took place). The OP shouldn't be the one punished or the one that has to eat the additional cost. They took that risk when allowing people to purchase a spot on a wait list essentially.

Unless your ambient temps are low it won't be possible without a sub ambient setup. The reason for it is there is a limit to how much heat can transfer between die > IHS > TIM > Block. So without the delta between IHS and Block being extremely high the heat just won't transfer fast enough. I mean unless you are going for extreme overclocks there is no real benefit of 40c compared to 60c or even 70c. The difference just isn't high enough to cause a massive difference in resistance.

Why would you have ever got to a 4th motherboard swap. After the second one you could be pretty sure the problem was elsewhere. From everything you are saying it appears to be an issue with the memory. It could be a compatibility issue or just a bad stick of RAM.... the easiest option would be to RMA it all if you purchased it together, but to make sure it is the culprit you will need to check each ram stick to see which one is having the issue... then you can try playing again with the single stick and see if the BSOD still occurs. If not, then you know the culprit and can RMA the memory.

Sounds like a prebuilt. My guess is the pump is dead. I would call their support number and have them walk you through next steps which will probably be an RMA of sorts.

Well RED is bad. Those temps are completely out of control high even more so for that game. Either you have a bad mount, unplugged fans, dead fans, or a dead pump (if an AIO cooler). Either way something is 100% wrong and you will need to start looking for the culprit before that chip frys. *Edit* Third picture does show rpms on the cpu fan. So this has to be a bad mount. If you put it together yourself did you take off the plastic on the cpu cooler? Need to know more about this computer. Did you buy it prebuilt? Did you do it yourself? When? Etc.

I'm not arguing, just presenting a different perspective. The problem is going to be that as long as you use that case your options are going to be several limited to the point it will constrain the hardware you can use. I have a 5900x and it can put out some series heat when running all cores. I have seen mine pulling around 240+ watts on heavily multithreaded tasks. A quick glance on line shows that the 5800x is hitting 220+ watts at full load too. So if you need to go with a 120 or 140mm AIO like an h80i (if it will fit) then you will also need to undervolt your cpu (which you should anyways on these chips for best performance), but also disable pbo wattage boost to try to keep temps down or maybe set the undervolt curve and disable pbo altogether to get the wattage down to a manageable level. Sure a 120 or 140mm rad can cool a 240w load, but the delta needed to do so is like 25-30c which is pretty much heat soaked. So that means the temperature of the water vs ambient has to be HUGE for it to finally be able to stop rising temps.

How about.... Trooper SE | Cooler Master If you can still get them. I just gave mine to a brother in law lol.

So why not just replace the case? I know you said it wasn't an option you wanted to consider, but for the price to get the 2 rads, tubing, and a block you could have got a new case + a large tower cooler for the money spent.

Personally I would try to make a 200mm radiator work with your side fan. https://modmymods.com/alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-full-copper-200mm-radiator-14348.html 200x200x45 = 1,800,000 (120 x 120 x 30) + (140 x 140 x 30) = 1,020,00 So the 200mm radiator would be about 76% more surface area.

Let me clear this up. First I don't see any exhaust listed so I am hoping you will have atleast 2 (1 back, 1 top back) or 3 (1 back , 2 top] fans. Second having the radiator in the front will only increase the internal temps of your case by 2c or less depending on air flow. So it really doesn't matter much. Front will give you better cpu temps and might raise gpu temps 1-2c. Putting the radiator on top will lower gpu temps, but as gpus put out more heat it could increase cpu temps 1-5c. In the end put it where it is easiest and just make sure you have good airflow through the case

It depends on your case. If you have a good place to put it and like the aio thr performance between a 240mm and the dark rock 4 will be very similar.. not being thr pro variant the AIO might actually be a tad better.

So let me finally respond to this. The case you picked isn't know for having great air flow. So do you have any fans in the front of the case? If so hopefully they are optimized for static pressure. When it comes to coolers the ML240r isn't the worst AIO, but it isn't a great one either. It will be about on par with the dark rock. Now if you do not currently have good static pressure fans in the front then you should get some. The fans on the ML240r are probably decent and if you were to get another 2 fans and run a push/pull setup you could potentially get better case temps all around (No enough space in your case nvm). Also since it is push pull you can run lower rpms making the setup a little more quiet. The most important thing no matter which cooler you choose is going to be getting enough air moving through the case.

That is the amount of computation power went into finding it. So for example if you assume each miner has 100MHs then the second share would have equaled about 11 people.

I have 14 p12 pwm in my current build the only speed they make any noise is at 980-1050 rpm. I run mine around 1250-1350 and they are completely silent inside my case. Have yet to have any issues and I have probably had these same fans over a year

For the price of the loop you would be much better served to just get a much better gpu with a beefy cooler. So you could get a 3080 or 3070 with a high end air cooler and STILL come out cheaper than the 2060 with water cooling. Custom water makes the most sense when you are already close to max on components that the money of the loop wouldn't = much more performance elsewhere

I have seen it tested. Lol at a water loop for example there is a high delta difference between say the cpu temp and water temp and thr water is in a closed loop. Now when you look at air, with the volume that is flowing through the rad and the speed at which it moves a 2c in vs out difference is still a lot of thermal mass. The difference is you have an almost endless supply of fresh intake air (unless you are heating your room up from a massive amount of heat). It has been proven time and time again that the difference between intake and exhaust air is minimal if you have proper flow. One of the biggest positives to water cooling is the control you have over the air. You can choose to get fresh air or to exhaust the hot. Air coolers can actually cause turbulence issues that hurt the wind tunnel effect.

Just remember the phantek rgb covers are 10 each. I also personally prefer the muted look of them on black fans. So 35ish for a 5 pack of p12s and 55ish in covers for them for a total of 90 ish per 5 fans compared to either 130 per 3 or 40 per fan of the others.

I prefer the arctic fans these days. Can get 5 of them for the price of a single one of those fans. The difference being they do not have rgb, but personally for my rgb needs I would get the rgb fan covers so I am not stuck on a limited selection of fans. Plus pricing still is probably cheaper. So for my setup I would need 14 fans and 7 rgb covers. So about 90 for 15 fans and 80ish for the covers for a total of $170 The LL120s at 130 for 3 would set me back $650. If I went with say 7x7 that would still (if we prorate) come out to about 50 for 7 p12s and 280 for 7 ll120s for a total of $330. The p12s imo are just a better fan outside of rgb anyways. So I can push/pull and put on rgb covers for less than just running a single fan per slot of the LL20s

For air cooler it needs to always be push. For radiators it doesn't matter. The reason it matters on air coolers is because they are designed with open sides so pulling air means it gets air from the path of least resistance (the sides) so it doesn't utilize the entire heatsink. Now if you push you are forcing the air through the entire thing.

I feel like you drastically over estimate the temp of air after the rad... which is generally only 1-2c warmer (not much) so as long as you have adequate exhaust your gpu temps will remain largely the same.

Give this a watch and see if it helps.

After a little more digging through reviews and benchmarks it looks like your temps are perfectly in line. If you really are concerned you could disable pbo, but then you would be leaving performance on the table. If I was you I would do thr undervolting tweaks to see if that helps. Chances are your temps and cpu clocks will all see a slight improvement.

A little digging and I found this little comparison. Note that conductonaut is liquid metal which has limited application uses and really is just included to show the best extreme. So when looking at worst to best non liquid there is only a 3c difference and for most it comes down to less than 2c. So unless you are chasing best possible temps for overclocking I would argue it doesn't matter and a 2c difference isn't likely to help much in any case.