AngryBeaver

A CCNA is not required for their security cert. It isn't being phased out.. it was just recently renamed and is a single test now instead of two. They are actually done online now since corona. They will have to clear your desk completely... then you will be watched via Webcam for the entire test. Looking up or in a direction too much will put your test into contention. You are also unable to get up for any reason.

I think tooth paste or dish soap on a new block risks adding it as a contaminate unless you rinse it very vigorously. You also run the risk (if you open it) of the gasket not being seated correctly resulting in a leak. The big names leak test their blocks and offer some warranty, but if you open it up you lose that. For a new component (outside of rads) a good rinse in distilled water is all that is needed. Your goal is to just get any dust or debris off it. Your biocide/corrosion inhibitors will take car of the remaining concerns. Now if we were talking a gunked loop or a new rad I would agree with them. New rads need a good rad dance before being used, gunked components need a good scrub. A new block though just needs a rinse and it is ready.

I would say you could start as an infosec analyst without any experience straight out of school... I know because I am constantly training in people JUST like that. Sure they may be titled as a junior or assoc analyst, but they still make good money and in 1-2 years normally are bumped up in title and pay. So an Infosec Analyst is normally reviewing/triaging alerts generated by a SIEM. Heck, with automation and the amount of access you can get to most products via API now a lot of the data collection is done already. You don't even need a cert most of the time, but the entry level ones are cheap and help give you a leg up on someone else straight from school without one. I look at education and certifications as investing in myself and improving/showing my worth/skill level. You can't really go wrong with any investment you make into your self. So in this field for example without at least a 2 year degree you would be extremely hard pressed to get started with just a cert. Now if you managed to get some experience the degree might be less relevant, but in general they want 3-5 years of experience, a degree, or a combination of both to = 3-5 years. The truth is though there are a LOT more jobs in this field that people to fill them and the problem isn't getting better. So we often find people have a solid foundation of knowledge and then train them into the field. That foundation of knowledge is mostly around proficiency and understanding of OSes, Knowledge with networking, and overall just having a general understanding of how a machine operates. If you can understand the basics then in most cases you can be trained over time to be a pretty good analyst (if you are motivated). People are quick to say Education is a scam or not worth it, but I doubt many of them have tried to climb to the higher tiers of those roles. For example I am currently pursuing a PHD to continue improving myself, expand my knowledge, and increase my value to the company. I mean sure without a degree I could get a few certs and work an entry level position, but I am not going to climb very high off that.

Awful long post without telling us anything about what your major in IT was. Let me say this. There are some extremely in-demand IT jobs that are extremely high pay. They are even hiring entry level all the time. Infosec and devops are huge. They are also pretty big umbrellas and anything in IT can help you on your resume with them. Want to get in information security? Well grab a few of the entry level certs like Sec+, CCNA Cyber Ops,etc. Make sure you understand how various OS's, computers, and networks function and even without any experience land a job starting around 70k. So no your degree isn't a waste, just figure out how to maximize it. Education and showing you can complete something still looks good.

Just rinse the block with some distilled water and toss it in. Nothing else to worry about.

This better not be related to the many "leaks" posted on wccftech or thr handful of sites that post their information as gospel. If the source is wccftech take what they say with a dump truck full of salt.

For me it is worth it and upgrades are cheap as I don't need much additional water cooling parts. I would say thought that unless you are running a extreme high-end pc (top lf the line parts) then you would get more value out of using that cash to upgrade your build.

Just for the record the air temp difference between intake and exhaust is only a few C. So the "hot air" he is introducing might raise gpu temps 2c. Radiator placement isn't a major concern as long as you have proper air flow. Ao enough intake/exhaust with a flow path that makes sense. All of this though is speculation until he records his fps, clocks, temps, voltage, etc while playing. Then just posts us a screenshot of the graph. There are too many factors at play here and proper information is needed to narrow down potential areas of concern.

If the vrms were overheating he would see it in cpu clocks as the voltage is cut to reduce vrm temps. He can just run his game with drops and run something to monitor temps and clocks... watch for dips to determine the potential offender

And on top of this most consumer grade routers have only 1 lan side multi gig port. So if you are talking multiple devices you will still need a multi gig switch which aren't cheap either. Then you need to have NICs that support those multi-gig speeds. So unless you have a multi gig internet connection or a scenario where you need multi-gig lan side this is mostly pointless... and any of the new high end routers (which you will need) with multi gig should also have wifi 6.

I have seen some terrible mount locations, but holy crap this one takes the cake. This friend should come over and fix this asap. Put the radiator on top where those fans are put those fans on front of case. If for some reason there is a clearance issue and it won't fit on top then if you have enough tubing just let it sit on your desk! Anything would be better than where it is.

You are also using soft tubing and if it is new tubing it could be plasticizer. It does strange things and is why I hate replacing tubing because I can guarantee I will need to do a flush in a few months to get it all out of the system.

It does have flashy rgb, but the new artic 280 and 360 aios are suppose to be top performers for sound/performance. It only gets beat by ones that run 2200+r9m fans that are also 15-20 db louder

So look at it like this. You have a plain router without wifi(you will disable it). Now a lot of these hubs have a main unit which can be used as thr router/firewall/dhcp... if it didn't then these wouldn't be able to operate when plugged in to your modem. Since you want your main router to handle everything like routing (nat), firewall, and passing out ip addresses (dhcp) you will want to disable those features on the mesh network or you create a network with 2 of everything. So for example you have 68.8.8 8 as your external ip from your isp, then it hits your router which assigns anything on it an ip of 192.x.x.x... now since you are in double nat the hub system is assigned a 192.x.x.x ip , but then assigns a 10.x.x.x ip to anything connected to it. This means wired devices cannot communicate with your wireless ones and vice versa.. it also means that anything on wifi that needs an open port will need to negotiate for it twice depending on setup. Another solution if the above sounds overly complicated is to just buy a 5 or so port gigabit switch. Then if your hub is like most you will plug in your modems connection (wan)then have an extra port (lan) you could plug the switch in to allow both wired and wireless connections with only the hub acting as firewall,dhcp, etc

My only laptop I ever take anywhere is my work one. So I have my work laptop Charger 30,000 mh battery pack for phones/accessories with a solar panel for charging if needed wireless Platronics headset Bluetooth earbuds Wireless mouse/kb Extra cat 6 cable 6' A pin coded 1TB HDD a couple of hard tokens Notepad with Pen (vendor goodies!) Travel size stick of deodorant (in case) Small bottle of Cologne (in case) Wireless phone charging puck. Think that is about it. I don't want a huge bag to tote around when I am on a business or leisure travel (yes I have to bring it with for vacations too).

I am skeptical to their claims. Look at something like Kryonaut which is only 12.5w/mk or artic Silver which is only 8.9 w/mk. The only TIM's that I know of that start to get to that level or higher are Liquid Metal and are also electrically conductive. I am not saying it isn't a good TIM, but most of the decent ones are within 1c of each other. They are using 0.06ºC/W-sq.in as the measurement which for me atm is a pita to convert, but comes out anywhere between 2-5 w/mk

Another good suggestion. If the hubs have one main that can function as a router/firewall... then taking the wifi 5 router out of the equation would be best. If you need the ports on it and the wifi 6 hubs have one with a ethernet port then you could use the router for firewall/wired connections and disable the wifi to let the wifi 6 mesh system handle that. Now depending on the features on those devices you might need to disable the firewall/dhcp on them to avoid issues and/or create a double NAT scenario.

This is such a complicated question to be honest. There are a lot of factors that come in to play. So for example a lot of the things on wifi 6 are supported on high end wifi 5 routers... Mimo, beamforming, etc. Now WPA3.. might not be on them, but depending on what features you are concerned about it really just depends on what features the wifi 5 router had. If you want to full take advantage of the wifi 6 features, you might as well just get a new router that supports those items.

This all depends on how you set it up. I mean lets say you are going to run a VM for each instance on the server... then you have issues on what you will use to connect. Remote Desktop will not work for gaming, so that would be out. I recommended a VDI, because that is what thin clients were made for. As I said before though the challenge is going to be how you handle the GPU passthrough.

I think you are making this a little more complicated than it needs to be. First I wouldn't worry about push/pull on that AIO. As for fan curves... the cpu will pretty much always be engaged for anything burning gpu cycles. So if you want more air flow at gpu load set a fan curve that hits 70% or so at 50-55c and ramp up to 100% at say 70-75c.

On second look this doesn't appear to be agp or pci-x. The general size and setup is there, but that last section shouldn't be broken in 2. Should be 3 sections, not 4

Any reason why you can't just rotate it 180 degrees so that those fittings are on the other end

I am not talking about the paste at this point. Static, scratching a trace, etc there are still plenty of things that can go wrong if you aren't careful. If it this is a discrete card try using the integrate gpu to boot to windows.. then see what your gpu temps look like.

I edited as you responded. Was thinking of their liquid metal product. None the less artifacting in bios is normally a sign of a dying gpu... Did you make sure to discharge any static prior to doing this? I mentioned this because in my experience a lot of gpu artifacting happens due to memory issues. Overclocking too high can cause them too, but when stock clocks are used it normally points to memory issues (on the gpu).

If you are getting artifacts in bios then you have more than likely damaged the GPU.