AngryBeaver

3 hours ago, Npiet1 said:

So my ryzen 5800x is in a custom water cooled loop triple rad, hitting 85'c. My 1400 wouldn't go past 50'c (I know a huge power difference). It's instant when it's in high use and wont move down unless it goes back to idle. I'm worried about my petg tubing. It sits on 40'C on idle (about 30'c ambient, semi-rural aus) which is fine but 50'c for browsing.

I would undervolt it. You will see a improvement in clocks and probably thermals too.

2 hours ago, S1NN3T said:

Temprature wise.

whilst gaming (World of tanks) GPU is around 68-70, depending on ambience

cpu is around 64

 

World of warships is better!

As for temps both are well within reason. An easy way to see if air flow is an issue is to take off the side of your case and see where temps are during your gaming sessions.

If you see massive improvement then better front fans (high static pressure) will help a lot. If it is only a few C difference then there isn't much of a reason to change anything.

On 1/29/2021 at 4:46 AM, IntMD said:

It is pretty much the same wording in UK law.

 

I would say being unable to provide a reasonable timescale for actually being able to fulfill the order, would be perfectly understandable grounds for issuing a refund (which they apparently haven't done... but that is another part of the story, and they definitely should be refunding without having to go through the CC company). Personally, if I was the company, I'd have done it differently and just said to people, 'We can't get stock, we don't know when we will be able to get stock, please have a refund if you want'.

I think the point that is being missed is they removed and then relisted the cards at a higher price. This happened in the states too due to tariffs. 

So they are telling him he needs to either select the newer listed items with a much higher price or us the money he has for a lesser item that us now in that price range.

The problem is months ago he agreed to X item at X price. The fact cards went up is not his fault nor problem. He has a binding agreement with them.

Your best recourse is to reach out for one of the cards they have in stock and offer to pay the difference in cost of the card 3 months ago (since that is when the transaction took place). The OP shouldn't be the one punished or the one that has to eat the additional cost. They took that risk when allowing people to purchase a spot on a wait list essentially. 

23 hours ago, Deadtravller said:

Kind of a personal project I’m planning on doing is setting up a cooling config that lets me cool my 3700x to 40 degrees Celsius under load. What kind of cooling for the CPU and case cooling in general do you guys think would be needed to get these kinds of temps? Thanks

Unless your ambient temps are low it won't be possible without a sub ambient setup.

The reason for it is there is a limit to how much heat can transfer between die > IHS > TIM > Block. So without the delta between IHS and Block being extremely high the heat just won't transfer fast enough. 

I mean unless you are going for extreme overclocks there is no real benefit of 40c compared to 60c or even 70c. The difference just isn't high enough to cause a massive difference in resistance.

6 hours ago, INeedPCHelp6700K said:

Hello LTT forum,

 

Recently, My new PC has been bluescreening with the issue "KERNEL_SECURITY_CHECK_FAILURE". I have had to swap my motherboard multiple times now and I have also been ruling out other issues (like a dead HDD and Bad WIFI  cards). I watched a video on YouTube on what a Minidump file is. He said to put the file in an analyzer, but sadly the website is no longer up. So, I come to the LTT forum for some help. If anyone knows what the issue could be, I would really appreciate some help. I ran a windows memory diagnostic and it said there were memory issues, but ive been using the same ram for the last couple motherboards. Here is the Minidump and the my PC's specs and older RMA motherboards.

 

Specs:

 

Ryzen 5 3600

Corsair Capellix h100i 
ASUS TUF GAMING B450m-plus II

ASRock RX 5600xt Challenger PRO

32GB (2 separate kits) of G.Skill RIPJAWS V DDR4-3600

ARESGAME 650w 80+ Bronze PSU

Corsair Crystal 280x RGB (Black)

240GB Kingston SSD

1TB WD Caviar Blue

 

(Both storages are from my old PC)

 

Previous Motherboards:

 

ASRock B550M Phantom Gaming 4 (Shorted)

MSI MAG B550M Bazooka (Didn't work with BattlEye)

ASRock B550M Steel Legend (Long Boot times and Possible Memory issues)

ASUS TUF GAMING B450M PLUS-II (Current board, no issues, Possible RAM Issue)

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Minidump download:

 

https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aq-eulidG3Ykjm8MhYF5K6PBzh4C?e=rH2bMm

 

 

Why would you have ever got to a 4th motherboard swap. After the second one you could be pretty sure the problem was elsewhere. From everything you are saying it appears to be an issue with the memory. It could be a compatibility issue or just a bad stick of RAM.... the easiest option would be to RMA it all if you purchased it together, but to make sure it is the culprit you will need to check each ram stick to see which one is having the issue... then you can try playing again with the single stick and see if the BSOD still occurs. If not, then you know the culprit and can RMA the memory.

1 minute ago, NeoniX said:

This is my cooling system, iBUYPOWER 120mm Addressable RGB Liquid Cooling System - White
And how would I know if its mounted properly?

Sounds like a prebuilt. My guess is the pump is dead. I would call their support number and have them walk you through next steps which will probably be an RMA of sorts.

Well RED is bad. Those temps are completely out of control high even more so for that game.

Either you have a bad mount, unplugged fans, dead fans, or a dead pump (if an AIO cooler). Either way something is 100% wrong and you will need to start looking for the culprit before that chip frys.

*Edit* Third picture does show rpms on the cpu fan. So this has to be a bad mount. If you put it together yourself did you take off the plastic on the cpu cooler? Need to know more about this computer. Did you buy it prebuilt? Did you do it yourself? When? Etc.

Just now, ragnarok0273 said:

Eh.

I'll stick with my case.

I like the occasional challenge anyway.

I'm always so curious why people like to argue something even after I've made clear that it's not an option.

I'm not arguing, just presenting a different perspective. The problem is going to be that as long as you use that case your options are going to be several limited to the point it will constrain the hardware you can use. 

I have a 5900x and it can put out some series heat when running all cores. I have seen mine pulling around 240+ watts on heavily multithreaded tasks. A quick glance on line shows that the 5800x is hitting 220+ watts at full load too.

So if you need to go with a 120 or 140mm AIO like an h80i (if it will fit) then you will also need to undervolt your cpu (which you should anyways on these chips for best performance), but also disable pbo wattage boost to try to keep temps down or maybe set the undervolt curve and disable pbo altogether to get the wattage down to a manageable level.

Sure a 120 or 140mm rad can cool a 240w load, but the delta needed to do so is like 25-30c which is pretty much heat soaked. So that means the temperature of the water vs ambient has to be HUGE for it to finally be able to stop rising temps.

 

2 minutes ago, ragnarok0273 said:

Again, theoretical planning.

I like to plan ahead, so in case I do end up getting a 5900X, I have a plan.

Also I can't find a case that has 4 5.25" front bays and 4 3.5" HDD bays.

How about.... Trooper SE | Cooler Master
If you can still get them. I just gave mine to a brother in law lol.

32 minutes ago, ragnarok0273 said:

The problem is that I don't have enough space.

The side fan protrudes into the case, and putting a radiator on there would basically prevent me from installing non-low-profile GPU because of the power cables.

So why not just replace the case? I know you said it wasn't an option you wanted to consider, but for the price to get the 2 rads, tubing, and a block you could have got a new case + a large tower cooler for the money spent.

Personally I would try to make a 200mm radiator work with your side fan.

https://modmymods.com/alphacool-nexxxos-xt45-full-copper-200mm-radiator-14348.html

200x200x45 = 1,800,000

(120 x 120 x 30) + (140 x 140 x 30) = 1,020,00

So the 200mm radiator would be about 76% more surface area.

On 1/28/2021 at 12:53 PM, DragonKarma said:

Have a quick question, can the air that passes through my aio ventilate my system or will the air be to hot to cool it.

I tried to make a picture. Will the air coming from the aio be to hot or is it  fine

Let me clear this up.

First I don't see any exhaust listed so I am hoping you will have atleast 2 (1 back, 1 top back) or 3 (1 back , 2 top] fans.

Second having the radiator in the front will only increase the internal temps of your case by 2c or less depending on air flow. So it really doesn't matter much.

Front will give you better cpu temps and might raise gpu temps 1-2c. Putting the radiator on top will lower gpu temps, but as gpus put out more heat it could increase cpu temps 1-5c. 

In the end put it where it is easiest and just make sure you have good airflow through the case

On 1/25/2021 at 8:57 AM, Sport Driver said:

Ok got it. For AIO I have chance to get CM ML 240 RGB for 10€ more than Dark Rock 4 (non Pro). Looks wise I would prefer AIO and I don't care about 10€ more. If I can get better cooling I would go with AIO.

It depends on your case. If you have a good place to put it and like the aio thr performance between a 240mm and the dark rock 4 will be very similar.. not being thr pro variant the AIO might actually be a tad better.

On 1/26/2021 at 3:10 PM, Sport Driver said:

 

What would be better idea to go for, Be Quiet Dark Rock 4 on the side of air coolers or Cooler Master ML240R RGB on AIO side? It will be cooling 5800X. From Tier list ML240 is better but is it really? Also how is reliability of this CM stuff? Pride delta is 10€. Case will be NZXT H510 if that makes any difference. 

 

So let me finally respond to this. The case you picked isn't know for having great air flow. So do you have any fans in the front of the case? If so hopefully they are optimized for static pressure.

When it comes to coolers the ML240r isn't the worst AIO, but it isn't a great one either. It will be about on par with the dark rock. Now if you do not currently have good static pressure fans in the front then you should get some. The fans on the ML240r are probably decent and if you were to get another 2 fans and run a push/pull setup you could potentially get better case temps all around (No enough space in your case nvm). Also since it is push pull you can run lower rpms making the setup a little more quiet.

The most important thing no matter which cooler you choose is going to be getting enough air moving through the case.

On 1/14/2021 at 4:43 PM, airborne spoon said:

 

Bruh 

did you even read what i said? i am mining btc with several ASIC and i'm mining eth with a solid GPU, your response had absolutely NOTHING to do with the question i started this thread for.

I want to know if there is a way to see what my best share is on my ETH miner. Like it says share found 579GH or share found 1128MH is that a measure of difficulty, and if so WTF does it mean?

That is the amount of computation power went into finding it. So for example if you assume each miner has 100MHs then the second share would have equaled about 11 people.

4 hours ago, 1982 Original said:

That’s not bad.  The PWM used to be $30 too. Not for me though, I figured out Arctic quality isn’t good, plus only 3 pin. But, on a budget, it’s an option. 

I have 14 p12 pwm in my current build the only speed they make any noise is at 980-1050 rpm. I run mine around 1250-1350 and they are completely silent inside my case. Have yet to have any issues and I have probably had these same fans over a year

For the price of the loop you would be much better served to just get a much better gpu with a beefy cooler. So you could get a 3080 or 3070 with a high end air cooler and STILL come out cheaper than the 2060 with water cooling.

Custom water makes the most sense when you are already close to max on components that the money of the loop wouldn't = much more performance elsewhere 

1 hour ago, jaslion said:

The air is a fair bit warmer when the cpu is loaded. If it would only be a couple degrees those rads would suck :P. You can look it up more than enough tests done. Either way even 2c in the h510 coupled with even less airflow due to a front rad really hurts the gpu for temps.

I have seen it tested. Lol at a water loop for example there is a high delta difference between say the cpu temp and water temp and thr water is in a closed loop. Now when you look at air, with the volume that is flowing through the rad and the speed at which it moves a 2c in vs out difference is still a lot of thermal mass. The difference is you have an almost endless supply of fresh intake air (unless you are heating your room up from a massive amount of heat).

It has been proven time and time again that the difference between intake and exhaust air is minimal if you have proper flow. One of the biggest positives to water cooling is the control you have over the air. You can choose to get fresh air or to exhaust the hot. Air coolers can actually cause turbulence issues that hurt the wind tunnel effect.

10 minutes ago, MarvintheParrot said:

Originally I was planning on going with the BIONIX P12 from Arctic, but I really want to light up my system. RGB stripes were also considered, but I settled on fans. I need 9 fans for my PC (O11D MINI) so I am going to get 2 packs of whatever RGB fans I decide on(from the list above) and then 1 more Arctic BIONIX P12, so I have 3 RGB on the side, two on the top, one in the back, and then 3 ARCIC on the bottom.

Just remember the phantek rgb covers are 10 each. I also personally prefer the muted look of them on black fans. So 35ish for a 5 pack of p12s and 55ish in covers for them for a total of 90 ish per 5 fans compared to either 130 per 3 or 40 per fan of the others.

I prefer the arctic fans these days. Can get 5 of them for the price of a single one of those fans. The difference being they do not have rgb, but personally for my rgb needs I would get the rgb fan covers so I am not stuck on a limited selection of fans. Plus pricing still is probably cheaper.

So for my setup I would need 14 fans and 7 rgb covers.

So about 90 for 15 fans and 80ish for the covers for a total of $170

The LL120s at 130 for 3 would set me back $650. If I went with say 7x7 that would still (if we prorate) come out to about 50 for 7 p12s and 280 for 7 ll120s for a total of $330.

The p12s imo are just a better fan outside of rgb anyways.

So I can push/pull and put on rgb covers for less than just running a single fan per slot of the LL20s

On 1/24/2021 at 1:17 AM, carreragt said:

I have a deepcool neptwin dual tower cooler on 9700k. The fan on the first is in push configuration. The second fan is also in push config in between the towers. My doubts are:

1. Can I use a pull config on the second tower by placing fan on the other side of the tower. Would it make a difference

2. One fan is connected to the cpu fan header and the second one to the pump header. This results in different speeds for both the fans. Is this OK. Should I get a splitter and connect both fans to the same header. 

For air cooler it needs to always be push. For radiators it doesn't matter.

The reason it matters on air coolers is because they are designed with open sides so pulling air means it gets air from the path of least resistance (the sides) so it doesn't utilize the entire heatsink. Now if you push you are forcing the air through the entire thing. 

On 1/26/2021 at 3:33 PM, jaslion said:

The meshify c should be the price of a h510 and is basically identical to the meshify 2. In the h510 basically every cooler kinda sucks and watercooling makes it terrible for the gpu as the only place for a 240 is in the front aka the only fresh air intake and then you get the hot air from the cpu all over the inside of everything thus heating the remainder of the components even more.

I feel like you drastically over estimate the temp of air after the rad... which is generally only 1-2c warmer (not much) so as long as you have adequate exhaust your gpu temps will remain largely the same. 

6 hours ago, Vlasterx said:

Hello everyone, just bought 5800x and it's a beast! Problem is that it overheats too much for my liking, so I have tried to undervolt it from Ryzen master and it seems to be stable at 4.4Ghz with -0.1v. This works great in demanding games as well and temperature is acceptable.

 

Problem is that these settings are not persistent.

 

 

What would I need to change in ASUS BIOS to get these same results?

- Variable clock speed up to 4.4Ghz
- CPU voltage up to 1.05V

 

I have Crosshair VII x470 motherboard.

 

I haven't done this before and seems better to ask than to mess something up.

Give this a watch and see if it helps.

5 minutes ago, AlexGhe said:

For case fans I have as follows:

Front fan: NF-A14 PWM with low noise adaptor

back fan: NF-S12A PWM with low noise adaptor.

 

The only fan in my case without low noise adaptor is the cpu cooler fan, because at base speed it's completely silent even without the adaptor, being inside the case.

After a little more digging through reviews and benchmarks it looks like your temps are perfectly in line. If you really are concerned you could disable pbo, but then you would be leaving performance on the table.

If I was you I would do thr undervolting tweaks to see if that helps. Chances are your temps and cpu clocks will all see a slight improvement.

A little digging and I found this little comparison. Note that conductonaut is liquid metal which has limited application uses and really is just included to show the best extreme.

So when looking at worst to best non liquid there is only a 3c difference and for most it comes down to less than 2c. So unless you are chasing best possible temps for overclocking I would argue it doesn't matter and a 2c difference isn't likely to help much in any case.