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AngryBeaver

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Posts posted by AngryBeaver


  1. 11 hours ago, Reaper0n3 said:

    I have. I had full motherboards sent to me before I RMA'd the defective one. CyberpowerPC did that. So it is possible.

    Also in the corporate world you're never going to send a defective part out before you receive the replacement. All I'm saying is that they could have done better. I scanned the receipt so they could see that I literally just bought it.

    I wouldn't have bothered with them. If under 14 days I would always just take it to microcenter. They have top notch customer service.

     

    I don't need warranty support often, but the quickest way to lose my future business is to offer bad customer service or fail to honor your warranty. All companies seem great until you have a problem, but how a company handles that problem is where you see their true colors.

     

    That is why I spend more on EVGA products. I have found that in the event something goes wrong they will exceed my expectations.

     

    On the flip side I got burned by PNY on a warranty and I have not purchased another product from them... not even a flash drive. I also make sure to steer people away from them every chance I get. So to continue that tradition. PNY use to offer a "limited lifetime" warranty. The problem was (and they never spelled this out in their terms) that they considered a "lifetime" warranty to mean the lifetime of the card (as in in production) so once they no longer produced the card or had any stock of it to offer as a replacement... you were pretty much screwed (like I was). So just shady practices.


  2. 17 minutes ago, Pikatchu said:

    General question about Corsair's quality and performance when compare to Ekwb.

    Those have have used Corsair's Hydro X, is it any good?

     

    My planned loop is 150$ apart from Corsair to Ekwb. On a 800 dollar scale. (Full loop with 2x 360mm radiator)

    So my take... I prefer the corsair rads (hardware labs) over EK offerings. The corsair coolant is better (mayhems) and the fittings are pretty much equal.

     

    Now when it comes to blocks I prefer the EK offerings on cpu and gpu.

     

    Lastly is pumps and I think their res/combos are about on par with each other.

     

    I personally don't go with one particular brand when I do my loops. I just go with the components I like the most in terms of performance, price, or aesthetics.


  3. 4 hours ago, quickhakker said:

    the fact you went from 1 gen to the next gen the moment it dropped shows off a case of i need the newest thing, which that attitude comes hand in hand with the cry baby bitches who flip when they lose up to 10 fps when there in the 200, if it was almost half there frames going then they can complain but seriously, 10 frames? 

    Soo moving from a 4 core cpu to a 6 more cpu (50% increase) makes me a "cry baby bitch?"

     

    Honestly, the only person "crying" seems to be you and over something that literally has no impact on you.

     

    *edit* also you would never see me complain about getting a few less frames because of XYZ. If I was unsatisfied with something I would just purchase something I was happy with. Even then I have been sitting on my current rig for longer than usual waiting on the ryzen 4000 stuff at this point (was the 3000 series).

     

    So just a little advice... don't make assumptions. 


  4. 15 minutes ago, quickhakker said:

    what really gets my goat up is when you see the enthusiasts with the highest end specs complain about getting fps drops of up to 10 which at the frame rates there at it seems as though the only way you could tell is if you had an FPS counter up 

    Except my point wasn't about saying I needed the newest or best. It was about buying a quad core cpu that intel kept pushing only to have them release 6 cores very shortly after and leave us with a motherboard that could push the 8700k, but they made sure to kill off that possiblity.

     

    Now as for people who think they need to upgrade... how does what I do when it comes to upgrading effect you? Do you know the story of why I do it? In my particular circumstance me upgrading gives my entire household an upgrade. So the wifes computer is normally 1-3 years behind mine and the teenagers is 2-4 (on cpu platform... he is normally rocking a good gpu). Then I have another 2-3 machines for nephews who are frequently over.

     

    On top of all this why would it matter what me or anyone else does. My purchases don't effect you. So if it is a jealousy thing I am sorry, but life isn't fair.

     

    So while you find people like me annoying, I find people like you immature and think you need to grow up.


  5. This would be my recommendation.

     

     

    You can shave the 2tb drive to get in budget. Then just buy extra storage later.

     

    I went with 3600 speed ram with a 16 latency to maximize on speed of that platform.


  6. 53 minutes ago, MrImnotMLG said:

    It sounds like you have the water going to the GPU first then the CPU. If you would like to keep that system, then yes the delidding(?) would help drop the temps a degree or two.

    Order doesn't matter. As long as you have a decent flow rate the in and out temp at any point should be at most 1-2c 


  7. My wife likes to randomly tell me how ridiculous it is to spend xxxxx on upgrades, builds, etc.

     

    Then when I reminded here just how much I spend on everyone else in my house compared to myself... well then her temper dries up pretty quick.

     

    I mean I make a very good living and having anyone tell me how to spend my own damn money doesn't sit well with me. Then there is the fact that I probably spend 30k or more annually on things for people in the family... so if I want to spend 3500 or even 5k on a new build annually or every 2 years who cares. Yes I also buy servers and HDDs to keep up with plex, but I think that counts as money spent on the family lol.


  8. 6 minutes ago, DarrenCh3n said:

    My friend computer cpu temp and liquid temp are 40 C apart when running games. I am not sure what is the problem. Cpu Temp 72c and Liquid temp 31.

    This is perfectly normal. It is because transfer from die to IHS to block isn't 100%

     

    Now as temp between the two increases so does the amount of heat that can be transferred. So there a lots of factors. Die size, interface material, thickness of various items, imperfections in the surfaces, amount of thermal interface, curvature of the surfaces, etc.

     

    All of these play a part. Anyways those temps aren't concerning.


  9. 29 minutes ago, GDRRiley said:

    nope, more and more are wanting 10-12gb of ram.

    with all that you'll be wanting more than 16.

     

    OP

    B or D maybe the best ones but this is what could be built. I bet you could find decent builder for 100$ or let me see what NZXT does

     

    I would personally drop the 3800x for the 3600x. No need for the extra cores in this scenario. Then you could toss the savings at a 2070s or such.

     

     

     

    I would probably toss the left over budget for a good gaming monitor and some very basic gaming peripherals 


  10. This is incredibly inefficient. You would be better off just blowing an AC into the case. I mean you are basically talking about just blowing air from a cool radiator in your case which is very inefficient and will require a compressor system for the chiller.

     

    So for the same cost of a chiller alone you could get a portable AC and just pump it into your case. The plus side of this is you reduce the risk of condensation which will be a side effect of the chiller route.


  11. 1 hour ago, DalekDoc said:

    Yeah ambient temps are 24-25. Those water temps are a bit high but mostly as a result of the tiny itx build and fan speeds limited to 1500rpm.

    See my whole build here - 

     

    Even though you are using slim rads you have 480mm of rad space. Now that slim fan might hurt some, but your water temps are terrible. I mean they are worse than what I would find acceptable with even an AIO. You have a 25c deltaT! That points to something be wrong. Btw 1500 rpm isn't terrible at all for fans speeds. 

     

    I mean I am not sure it is pump speed related, but I would push thr pump speed to 60 or even 70% and see what happens with temps. Having 3 slim rads will add a fair bit of restriction and while ddc pumps have great head pressure I feel it might be a little low for your loop (at 40%).

     

    You can also try boosting the speed on those noctua fans to see if that makes any big difference.

     

    I mean in a custom loop I consider anything over 15c DeltaT to be too hot. 

     

     

    Looking more at pics you have a lot of 90s too. So I am mostly sure you might be having some serious flow issues. Try upping that pump speed.


  12. 3 hours ago, DalekDoc said:
    I have a EKWB DDC pump (with heatsink) crammed into a very small ITX build. My water temp reaches about 49c under full CPU and GPU combined load (about 160w cpu package draw and 300w gpu package draw)
    I felt the DDC pump heatsink to be very warm to the touch so I put a temp probe from my quadro onto it. When the water temp reaches 49c, the surface temp on the pump heatsink is about 51c.
    I only run the pump at a max of 40% speed. What do you think, is this normal/acceptable?
    Thanks

    What is your ambient temp in your home? 49c water temps is 120f which seems pretty high to me. The highest I have seen my water temp was 32c and on most days it is in the 26-28c range.

     

    So if your house is say 38-40c I can understand that water temps, but if not they are pretty high.


  13. 13 hours ago, ImminentF said:

    Hm yeah i did try messing with the fan curve but in my case i have a dual fan MSI RTX 2070 super ventus oc and it is very very loud when above 60%, so if anything i like capping it at 60% but the default fan curve goes up to 87% so that doesn't seem to be the issue. Maybe my case doesn't have much airflow which is why i was thinking of getting some strong intake fans.

    What is your case? Adding new fans to an already restrictive case won't really do much of anything.


  14. 9 hours ago, BlackManINC said:

    🤔 Have you tried updating or re-flashing your bios? Rootkits have been known to infect the bios as well. There is nothing more I can think of at this point besides replacing the whole motherboard. Again, this is assuming this is really some type of virus. 

    Can you please just stop lol. All you are doing is spreading fear of possibilities that are not going to be the case.

     

    8 hours ago, GoldenBlack said:

    don't know but I'd rather try to reset both drives without getting any backup of current files first and like start from scratch  and see if it still comes back or not

    Did you ever try running a memory test? 

     

    Honestly, the only thing left would be a full wipe. I have 0 concern that anything has embedded itself into your mobos bios. There are too many different variants of boards for this to be likely. Malware trying to embed in the bios would more than likely brick the device.

     

    When it comes to a "rootkit" it normally means malware that has attempted to embed itself to gain elevated access (root). On windows you normally see it try to run as system which is a higher level than even administrator. Now it can employ various techniques to avoid detection, but there are ways around that. Either way booting into safe mode will allow you to find it. A full wipe will remove it. You can also download AV that are made specifically for these types of scenarios.

     

    Here is the chameleon version of malwarebytes.

     

    https://www.malwarebytes.com/chameleon/

     

     


  15. Is it an evga card? They had issues with VRM cooling that caused a lot of problems and RMAs. They went as far as replacing them for free or sending out a kit to fix it. They also shipped 2 new bios for the card which helped keep vrm temps under control.

     

    I would make sure your thermal pads are making good contact. The ones they sent out were slightly thicker than the original ones and seemed to have fixed the issue.


  16. 41 minutes ago, alyen said:

    Pushing air onto the radiator seems to work better than pull. It's more noticeable at lower fan RPM. The typical AIO radiator is 28mm so if you favor doing it another way for RGB aesthetics it may not be significantly different. At higher fan RPM it can be the same.

    There has been plenty of research done on this. There is no discernable difference between pushing or pulling. 


  17. 10 hours ago, Ricsi said:

    Hi everybody, 

    I'm trying to build an external watercooling build on a budget and

    I would like to ask for your help since I don't know anything about it.

    I know many of you may say "Just buy a desktop", " not worth it", but I travel often so desktop is not an option, maybe in a few years) 

     

     

    A few questions :

    1) Can a 12 V AC adapter power up everything listed below? I would also appreciate if somebody can help me to connect them once I buy them.

    2) Is there a way to make a some sort of connector where the tubes come out of the laptop (on the left side next to a USB port)  so I can disconnect the tubes so my laptop stays mobile? 

     

    A few things I already picked:

    1) Noctua NF-F12  PWM 4pin 120mm.

    2) Alphacool - 120mm  copper radiator.

    3) SC-300T 12V DC 3pin  - Water pump+reservoir (I know it is a shitty one but I'm trying to keep my budget low)

    4) Fittings etc - Please help

    5) fan+water pump controller - Please help

    6) tubing -  I'll need a really small diameter tube for GPU/CPU water block since they are gonna be thin ( not much space in the laptop)

     

    Sorry for my poor English, it's not my native language.

     

    Thank you!

     

    I still think this project is going to require a lot more modding of the laptop than you are planning.

     

    As for fittings.. I am not sure if they will be available in the size tubing this will require, but I would go with quick connects.  So you would probably need to run the tubing out of the case in the spot you mentioned maybe 10 mm or so and then put a quick disconnect on it for in and out.

     

    This means when switching between the liquid setup and going just air when not at home you can do so by just clicking the connects together. They will prevent spills and also mean you don't have to drain and refill each time.

     

    If you have the time to wait aliexpress will have a lot of cheap stuff. You can save a ton going aluminum on this and I suspect you can find everything you need. Like I said the only challenge will be quick disconnects in this size.


  18. 3 minutes ago, GoldenBlack said:

    the smiley was an X and a D = XD but yeah what do you mean?

    Like run chkdsk for both my C drive and my D drive right? or do i have to run it for /f and /r because I did that too and it said that it's being used and asked me if i want it to be scanned upon reboot 

    For your non system disk it will let you unmount it. You can add the /x command to do it without being prompted.

     

    for the C drive you will need to do it on boot

     

    So the /f /r those are commands for chkdsk.  So you provide the drive letter and the commands.   So /f looks for and fixes driver errors  /r looks for and attempts to fix bad sectors   /x will tell windows to unmount the drive immediately before scanning.

     

    So you can run them all at once.  It would be for example chkdsk B: /f /r /x   


  19. 1 minute ago, GoldenBlack said:

    couldnt run chkdsk on my HDD though, did it for C drive but won't work for D drive, idk why

    and as for /sfc snannow it doesn't seem to detect anything with system files 

    1.jpg

    2.jpg

    0.jpg

    Well I found the problem. Your copy of windows is in the wrong language!

     

    Also your command is wrong for chkdsk. 

     

    It should be chkdsk l: /f /r    where l is your drive letter. Using the other ones makes a smiley on these forums lol

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