AngryBeaver

After this I am probably going to just buy a 3rd party argd controller so I can kick mystic lighting to the curb.

So first off I know this software is junk, I just have it for the mystic lighting (also junk). Anyways I normally set the light profile and have it save the settings then disable it from running at boot. Well today I was doing a quick top off of fluid (just refilled the loop) and noticed it smelt hot, checked temps and the idle was 90c! I think I have it at shutdown at 92c. Anyways I noticed right away that the out side of my cpu block was burning hot (tube and fitting). Thinking it was the waterblock somehow getting lose or shifting I pulled it off and did a remount. Looked in bios temps were a nice cool 29c, get into windows temps were good for about 30 seconds then BOOM 90c again. I went back again and checked bios, back to windows problem persisted, but this time I heard my pump which is on the pump header stop making the slight hum. Seeing temps rise I jumped up and grabbed a little laptop psu looking thing that I have setup with a molex/sata cable (with a fan controller on one) and powered the pump that way. Went through possible culprits and when I opened the Dragon center it gave me a quick notice it had changed the settings to recommended ones which turns on some Zero fan profile... that for whatever reason makes it so my pump will not run. After disabling it things seem to be back to normal, but this was a unexpected thing and I wanted to post for more visibility. Why dragon center would override my pump header on my motherboard from those being used in bios and completely turn it off is mind boggling to me. So now the real point of this thread. Has anyone else had similar issues?

So depending on the 3080 it can pull as low as 320w or as high as 450w alone. Then toss in your CPU with PBO and you are already looking at a power issue. Then you have to account for your drives, mobo, fans, lights, peripherals, etc. Trying to be more realistic with their numbers and adding a realistic number of fans + usb devices brings the total to... 708w recommendation. I would go for a good quality 750-800 watt and call it a day. https://outervision.com/b/I3eg6h

I would go this route. Note I didn't add a GPU, since they are all way above msrp on there due to shortage. I would aim for a 1660s, 2060, or 3060. You have about 265 left in your rough budget... which will easily get a 1660s or 2060, but would be a little stretch to get a 3060 which would be 50-100 more, but also a much better all around card for gaming and streaming. PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor $399.99 @ MemoryC CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition 42 CFM CPU Cooler $29.99 @ Newegg Motherboard ASRock B550M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $104.99 @ Amazon Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory $84.99 @ Newegg Storage Intel 665p 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $94.99 @ Newegg Storage Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $54.99 @ Newegg Case Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case $99.98 @ Newegg Power Supply SeaSonic CORE GM 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply $65.98 @ Newegg Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $955.90 Mail-in rebates -$20.00 Total $935.90 Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-01-23 09:33 EST-0500

I would personally hold out for the 3060. Yes the 12gb of Vram will make it appealing to some, but it also has a much slower bus rate which hurt that appeal too. I suspect it will be comparable to a 2080 or 2080s in performance which will be a pretty good bump in performance compared to the 1660.

Got tired of spending a fortune on ML120s when these p12s perform so close to them that it doesn't matter. at about 25 per fan the MLs would have set me back an extra $350 instead of $120 lol

So i feel bad posting this here, but away we go. First you need to join the unofficial discord for microcenter. Then find your local store and follow the FAQ to set it as your main store. Now if your store is like most and using digital lines you will need to find out which time they open the line and log in to reserve your spot (for me it was around 7am). Now that you know how to get a spot in line you will watch the discord to see when a drop happens. Normally someone who is already there in line will hear from the manager 30-45 minutes before opening to let people know if there was a truck and what was on it. Doing the above I was able to secure a 5900x and 3080 in less than a week. I will be going back for another 3080 once my 30 day (1 per) limit is up.

If you would have bothered following the link and then selecting downloads you would have seen they offer you various tools for the drives... my guess is the ssd toolbox was what you needed. Though as already said, if you are not having an issue there is little reason to upgrade.

I am actually using these fans in my main system. I have 14 of the p12's and 1 f14. They are all running to a single fan controller and I keep them all running at a fixed 60% which is inaudible at around 1200-1300 rpm. They move a TON of air and have great static pressure. I haven't noticed any noise from them unless you turn them to 80% or higher duty cycle... Even at 100% they are not what I consider loud of obtrusive. Plus when you can get 5 of them for about 40 bucks it is a steal of a deal. I actually prefer them to the ML120s I use to run. *edit* My teenager who is an RGB fan went with the Bitspower Touchaqua Notos RGB 120mm Case Fan - 5 Pack which were $50. They come with a rgb controller and fan hub with pretty good looking RGB, but the fans on them are definitely smaller than the p12s and they don't move anywhere close to the same amount of air or have the same static pressure, but they are also pretty darn quiet and decent fans on the cheap if RGB is your thing.

I mean I'm not seeing anything inherently bad. Temps are well below what I consider concerning. The only thing I could see being an issue would be if your fans constant ramp up and down which can be solved via reducing the ramp up time or adjusting the curve at where they ramp so that the subtle temp changes at that range don't effect it.

25%

For the setup in that picture I would say that would be an optimal setup. In the best case you want to create a nice wind tunnel effect. In the end though the goal is just air exchange. All of the talk about the front top fan stealing air is mostly nonsense. As a single 120 out just nullifies a 120 in. The top fan cannot move more air than another intake fan of similar size and rpm. So the air flow through even an air cooler would still be more than sufficient. The main goal is to keep the air temp in the case close to ambient. So it is more about how well that is happening.

Mine is much more consistent, but I don't have anything running and was just letting it idle. Your usage just looks like there were background tasks causing the spikes as the cpu needed to clock up and down to complete them.

Normally it will just be a pump header or if asus a HAMP header would also work. I mean in the end you just need a 12v header which on any decent motherboard a regular fan header can supply.

I just converted mine into a 3 pin fan connector and plug it into a High amp port

$75 tariff? Try closer to $200 for tariff increase costs.

Do you live close to a microcenter or best buy? If so join their unofficial discord and keep an eye on them to see when things will drop. I got a 5909x and a 3080 plus everything for a full build a my local microcentrr over a week period. They got in probably 150-200 30xx gpus and 100-125 5600-5950x cpus. There is also Newegg new lottery system.

Doesn't that game have advanced settings where you can limit the fps for when it is opened, in menu, or minimized? I would try checking what the minimized setting is.

There are several. They are going to be a decent jump in price though. https://www.newegg.com/corsair-sf750-cp-9020186-na-750w/p/N82E16817139080?item=9SIAM3UCRZ8872&nm_mc=knc-googleadwords-mobile&cm_mmc=knc-googleadwords-mobile-_-power supplies-_-corsair-_-9SIAM3UCRZ8872&source=googleshopping

This is why I no longer use craiglist and why most people have moved to facebook market place. At least there you can prefer people that look like they have legitimate accounts and in the case they scam you, you have a recourse for going after them.

People focus too much on the whole bottleneck thing. The truth is it is an optimal situation to have the gpu be the bottleneck. Now if you were to run that test again at 720p then your CPU would be the bottleneck. This mostly comes down to draw calls. Your cpu has to do the calculation for the game, some potential physics, background tasks, and then on top of that do draw calls which are dependent on your fps in the game. So as frame rates go up the work is more cpu dependent, when the resolution goes up and fps decreases then the work is placed on the gpu more and it becomes the limiting factor. The truth is no matter what you do something will always be a limiting factor. For the best case scenario in games it is best for it to be the GPU.

I'm going to repeat what was said earlier. For radiators Hardware Labs or Corsair (rebranded hardware Labs) would be my choice. You just cannot beat their radiators. The Corsair variant is slotted between the GTS and GTX. It has good low and high speed performance and is always within a fraction of a Celsius of the top.

Depending on where you work this is a big nono from a security practice POV. For example where I work it would set off alarms and you could be instantly termed.

My r23mc is right at 23000 My r23 sc is around 1630. My temps were hitting mid 70s on mc and 45-50 ST, but when swapping out video cards I noticed the tension bolts on my cpu block weren't bottomed out... so not sure if the new springs after a few days had more play or if I just didn't do it the first time, but since my temps are 3-5 c cooler so I barely hit 70s under MC. Now my chip after undervolting and PBO adjustments is hitting 5100+ single core and 4.7-4.8ghz MC.

Ya, but reportedly the increase didn't do much to improve clocks. I meant on ln2 it might help a bit, but even on water it doesn't look like it is making much of a difference. I am sure a bios hack or flash can help bring it up a little for most cards, but it is still to early to know the full extent.