AngryBeaver

I would get it out before using the laptop again. The screw is metal and that means there is a high possibility it can create a short killing your motherboard and other connected devices.

The increase is about 25%. The second card i purchased had the new tariff prices applied and it was almost $200 more. This was from a microcenter too so I know it is 100% the tariff cost being transferred to the consumer.

This is temps from p95 which is worst case scenario. Your temps when gaming for example are probably in the mid to high 50s. This is exactly where I would think temps should be on that cooler.

Aios shouldn't ever leak. Now that isn't to say there aren't bad units, but these units should be completely sealed. If you by from a reputable brand they warranty the AIO and cover any damages in the event it leaks.

I'll drop this here. De8auer did a good video on it. Jay has another one on it and I think Linus even did one. All of the results are pretty much the same.

Yes the loop will eventually hit equilibrium. Though that comes down to water temp vs ambient, air flow, and surface area.

Higher flow reduces temp variance outside the loop. It does reduce the time water spends in the blocks/rads when you look at it over a time frame, but it does spend less time per trip. Generally higher pumps speed (more flow) will bring better temps. Remember thermal transfer happens more efficiently as the sources get further apart in temps. So having a constant stream of cool water allows more heat to transfer as it is constantly replaced with fresh cool water. When you slow down the fluid has more time to rise in the blocks which means it can absorb less total energy. So while the water leaving actually is hotter than a fast flow... the temps on the components goes up because of less thermal transfer.

No they just aren't willing to dedicate the channels for upstream... so now you have a gb plan that caps at 40mbps up.

This is also a 3600 and not a 3600x vs a 5600x. I know the only different was base/boost speeds from the factory, but the 3600x was 50ish more than the 3600. Also the 3600x out performs the 1800x in multi and single thread in most benchmarks. The 5600x would murder it.

They can still shape traffic. They just aren't doing it as aggressively as they were with bittorent.

I tried and Uninstalled valorant right away. I am a firm believer in the rule of least access. I don't believe a cheat engine needs kernel access to be effective. Sure it makes it harder, but there are still cheats and it just gives them more access into my machine than they have any right to. More people should just shelf this game and play the many others that are pretty much identical.

Data caps are such a huge step backwards. They have traffic shaping and the ability to keep a handful of power users from saturating their network which is already much harder with docsis 3.1. Just more greedy money grabbing for a service that is over 99% profit.

The 1st gen ryzen while a massive jump from the older bulldozer architecture was slower than most 2nd gen or higher Intel chips in both IPC and clock speeds. That is why even an older cpu is pushing higher frames. Now the second gen chips closed the gap a little more, the 3rd gen again got much closer and then finally thr 5th gen took a clear IPC lead with boost breaking the 5ghz barrier on 1 or 2 cores. So if you really want to shift your bottleneck to the gpu you should aim for a 3000 or 5000 series cpu. The 3000s are pretty cheap right now if money is the concern. You will also be able to play with the infinity fabric ratio to help get a little more performance even with 3200 ram.

OK. Would take that information with a grain of salt. The days where this was a big issue are mostly over. Yes it can happen, but in general the temps are much lower than you could get in an attic. The biggest concern is like you said the freezing point of liquid. You should be able to look up the operating range of the aio to determine at what point it freezes. For the corsair line the magic number seems to be -20c (-4 f)

I wouldn't worry about doing anything atm. Your cpu and gpu temps are fine. If you didn't see a decrease from removing the side panel then your case is getting proper flow. So depending on how much noise you can take the next step would be to just adjust your gpu fan profile to be a little more aggressive. The coolers on most of them are able to reduce temps a good bit at 100%, but as said all of your temps are perfectly ok.

According to the specs. I would consider a 360mm in top or (if possible) a 280mm on the side. The surface area difference between a 360mm and 280mm is only about 10% depending on thickness. RADIATOR SUPPORT Front: 1 x 360mm, 1 x 420mm, 1 x 360mm(For 200mm fan) Top: 1 x 360mm, 1 x 360mm(For 200mm fan) Rear: 1 x 120mm, 1 x 140mm Right: 1 x 360mm, 1 x 420mm (AIO: 1 x360mm, 1 x 280mm) Bottom: 1 x 240mm

So changing the gpu should not hurt your experience. Now with a gpu fast enough some games at 1080p could max out your cpu, but in general this would just keep your fps from hitting higher levels. Now the new gpu could pull more juice which if your psu isn't up for the task could cause stability issues. There could be driver conflicts causing issues. You might even have something like a coin miner malware on your machine that with the extra gpu power is taxing yourself enough to cause issues. I would first scan for malware. Then I would wipe graphics drivers and make sure all my drivers and windows updates were current. I would then do some digging in event viewer to look for any potential issues. I mean there are lots of variables, but outside of something being wrong with the gpu there shouldn't have been a decrease in performance.

Personally at the difference in cost I would look more at a 3060ti which will offer much more performance for about 70 more. The 3060ti is anywhere from 30-60% faster than the 1080ti the other poster compared the 3060 with.

The 3080 does have a memory temp sensor due to it being common on gddr6x. Now that said my 3080 can run at +1500 memory without errors when on water... my temps still hit 88c-90c. If I run my memory at +1000 then those temps are 80-84c. Which makes me a little nervous, but apparently anything under 95c is pretty safe. Now cards that are on air constantly throttle due to 110c or higher temps. Now I just need a water cooled backplate to help memory temps further. Oh and since we are talking settings and hash rates. My 3080 runs at 68% plimit, -250 core, and since the difference isn't worth thr risk +1000 on memory for about 105 average MHs. At 1500 it will land around 110, but I would prefer seeing memory at 80-82c

They all basically say they don't have it, but normally do have a small amount that leeches into the water. Looking at pics I would def replace the tubing and them run something like primochill system reboot for the full 48hrs to flush the sysytem.

At a substantially higher price it sounds like. So them canceling orders and doing refunds is them trying to avoid a loss on an agreement they already made. If they have cards in stock then those should be offered at the price available 3 months ago... not the new inflated rates. Anything else is a complete bait and switch scam. "Here purchase now and we will send you the first available card!" 3 months later - "Oops we are out of your card, but if you give us more money we will send you one we have in stock at the brand new inflated rate!" They formed a binding agreement to fulfill his order. If they cannot get that card then an equivalent card should be provided. Since this happened 3 months ago it should be for the same series of card that was close to the same price at that time. What the OP should do is email and call them daily. The squeaky wheel gets the oil after all.

New tubing means new plasticizer to build up again lol.

More than likely it was an issue with the loop not being cleaned and dried from your last coolant which caused issues with your new coolant. These coolants are very sensitive to any other contaminants.

It isn't that it can't be done. It is the upkeep and risk vs reward that make it an issue. My solution and a project I was doing but decided to give up on was very similar to this one... except I was going to use something like a raspberry pi to constantly monitor water temps and ambient temp/humidity to keep temps below ambient, but also above the dew point. In the end it would need to occupy a closet or other remote space due to the noise level. Then it would be terrible in terms of cost effectiveness and lastly each loop would need to be changed as to not waste the energy used to keep lower temps. My project was going to be for 4-5 computers, but having to pull radiators and losing the ability to easily use the computers elsewhere just didn't feel worth it.

I haven't found a way to disassemble the res enough to clean it. Mine has the same line, but mine is mostly from plasterizer from new soft tubing. It is damn near impossible to clean lol.