Alikhanizadeh

Thanks!

Here is the PC at home with the complete finished setup. 



I've added an Anker four port USB hub (left of monitor) and a three socket desktop mains power strip (left rear corner of desk). The USB hub is stuck down with velcro and the power strip is clamped solidly on to the desktop. These two things give me convenient connectivity and power that rise and fall with the desk. 



At the far left on the bookshelf you can see my audio interface/DAC that is hooked up to the speakers and PC.


 
I also sanded the edges of the desk to a better finish, rounded the edges and protected it all with Danish oil. 


 
Here the desk is in the standing position. There is a fair bit of weight on the desk now so It's nice knowing there are three good quality actuators under there. I'm 6"2' so I have the desk quite high, I imagine it'd be a bit wobbly if it just had the two legs.


 
From the back you can see the cable management. I used two Ikea Signum cable trays to hold everything under the desk. I put a power strip in each of the cable trays which meant I only had to have one power cable run to the floor. Despite this I still had to use a fair few extra long and a few custom cables to connect everything else up. Everything is tied up with velcro wraps and I tried to use all black cables to keep it looking tidy. I used a big zip up cable sleeve for the cables that run to the floor so nothing gets caught when the desk is moving.

Here is the PC at home with the complete finished setup. 



I've added an Anker four port USB hub (left of monitor) and a three socket desktop mains power strip (left rear corner of desk). The USB hub is stuck down with velcro and the power strip is clamped solidly on to the desktop. These two things give me convenient connectivity and power that rise and fall with the desk. 



At the far left on the bookshelf you can see my audio interface/DAC that is hooked up to the speakers and PC.


 
I also sanded the edges of the desk to a better finish, rounded the edges and protected it all with Danish oil. 


 
Here the desk is in the standing position. There is a fair bit of weight on the desk now so It's nice knowing there are three good quality actuators under there. I'm 6"2' so I have the desk quite high, I imagine it'd be a bit wobbly if it just had the two legs.


 
From the back you can see the cable management. I used two Ikea Signum cable trays to hold everything under the desk. I put a power strip in each of the cable trays which meant I only had to have one power cable run to the floor. Despite this I still had to use a fair few extra long and a few custom cables to connect everything else up. Everything is tied up with velcro wraps and I tried to use all black cables to keep it looking tidy. I used a big zip up cable sleeve for the cables that run to the floor so nothing gets caught when the desk is moving.

Here is the PC at home with the complete finished setup. 



I've added an Anker four port USB hub (left of monitor) and a three socket desktop mains power strip (left rear corner of desk). The USB hub is stuck down with velcro and the power strip is clamped solidly on to the desktop. These two things give me convenient connectivity and power that rise and fall with the desk. 



At the far left on the bookshelf you can see my audio interface/DAC that is hooked up to the speakers and PC.


 
I also sanded the edges of the desk to a better finish, rounded the edges and protected it all with Danish oil. 


 
Here the desk is in the standing position. There is a fair bit of weight on the desk now so It's nice knowing there are three good quality actuators under there. I'm 6"2' so I have the desk quite high, I imagine it'd be a bit wobbly if it just had the two legs.


 
From the back you can see the cable management. I used two Ikea Signum cable trays to hold everything under the desk. I put a power strip in each of the cable trays which meant I only had to have one power cable run to the floor. Despite this I still had to use a fair few extra long and a few custom cables to connect everything else up. Everything is tied up with velcro wraps and I tried to use all black cables to keep it looking tidy. I used a big zip up cable sleeve for the cables that run to the floor so nothing gets caught when the desk is moving.

Time to move on to the real build log!

Here is the PC at home with the complete finished setup. 



I've added an Anker four port USB hub (left of monitor) and a three socket desktop mains power strip (left rear corner of desk). The USB hub is stuck down with velcro and the power strip is clamped solidly on to the desktop. These two things give me convenient connectivity and power that rise and fall with the desk. 



At the far left on the bookshelf you can see my audio interface/DAC that is hooked up to the speakers and PC.


 
I also sanded the edges of the desk to a better finish, rounded the edges and protected it all with Danish oil. 


 
Here the desk is in the standing position. There is a fair bit of weight on the desk now so It's nice knowing there are three good quality actuators under there. I'm 6"2' so I have the desk quite high, I imagine it'd be a bit wobbly if it just had the two legs.


 
From the back you can see the cable management. I used two Ikea Signum cable trays to hold everything under the desk. I put a power strip in each of the cable trays which meant I only had to have one power cable run to the floor. Despite this I still had to use a fair few extra long and a few custom cables to connect everything else up. Everything is tied up with velcro wraps and I tried to use all black cables to keep it looking tidy. I used a big zip up cable sleeve for the cables that run to the floor so nothing gets caught when the desk is moving.

Some detail shots of the interior.




 
Coolant is EK Cryofuel clear premix


 
You can see how tight the fit between the PSU, fan, HDD and radiator is in this shot. You can also see how the cables all part to allow airflow from the bottom fan. 






 
The colour of the sleeving is MDPC-X Shade-19

Some detail shots of the interior.




 
Coolant is EK Cryofuel clear premix


 
You can see how tight the fit between the PSU, fan, HDD and radiator is in this shot. You can also see how the cables all part to allow airflow from the bottom fan. 






 
The colour of the sleeving is MDPC-X Shade-19

Finally, I can say it's finished. Brace yourself for the avalanche of photos...

Wow, PC and desk goals... ?
I really envy your craftsmanship; well done!

Seems to work. I lost my notes with all of the temperatures I recorded over the build so I can't say what the difference was but it did make a difference. 
The front and top panel on this case are pretty restrictive, even after the tweaks, which I think exacerbates the problem. All three intake fans are totally sealed off now so they can only pull in ambient air. 

Wow, this is looking really great so far! I like the thought and effort being put into this build. That top radiator panel is sweet!

Truly fantastic work--sleeving and all the rest.

Here is the finished 24 pin.


 
You can see how having each wire the correct length allows the cable to follow a fairly complex curve. 

I have actually made a lot of progress since the last post but just haven't had time to post any updates. Such is life. 

Anyway, next up: more butchering of the case. 

I'm using a 280mm radiator in the front so I will be using two 140mm fans. As you can see the case is a bit restrictive for this size of fan. 



Chop, chop, chop



Much better



I really don't like this area of the case in the photograph below with loads of holes for HDD shelves in it.
1. It's useless as HHDs are so huge and cheap you only really need one or two and SSDs are rapidly expanding in capacity and dropping in price.
2. It's useless as I have other plans for locating my HDD
3. It's useless as I will have my coolant pump/reservoir, radiator and plumbing in the way so I couldn't fit drives there anyway.
4. I want to mount my pump/reservoir here and the number of existing holes makes it a bit tricky. 
5. It looks ugly



My plan was to make two "blanking plates" to fit either side of this area to solve the above problems. 



I had to cut off and drill out any parts that stood proud of the surrounding area. Here is the end result of the hacking. The rough looking paint is just to protect exposed metal, it's all going to get covered up. 



Here are the blanking plates before paint. You'll see how they fit soon. 

Here is the finished 24 pin.


 
You can see how having each wire the correct length allows the cable to follow a fairly complex curve. 

There are many more tweaks still to do (and many more already done that I haven't mentioned) and lots of custom wiring still to be done, but here it is after the first proper build up.


 
You can see how far the modified front panel stands off, I think this is about as far as you can go before it starts to look shoddy. 




 
Lots of messy wiring but that will be sorted soon enough. 





A few things are still temporary in these photos but you can see how it's coming together. 

Here is the new top after delivery.





I like the curve in the old top so I incorporated one in to the new one.



Old top off...



...New top on. I relocated the transformer, cables and control panel to the left hand side of the desk as I preferred them there. 



Voila. 

Time for wiring. Here is most of what I'll be using. 
Mostly from MDPX in Germany and Pexon PCs in the UK. I had to source quite a few specific uncommon parts from eBay and some obscure online retailers. 



I've never done custom wiring in a PC before so I've also bought the MDPC CTX3 crimp tool and pin tools as well as some decent wire strippers.



My order from MDPC-x came with a little drawing on the back of my invoice courtesy of Nils (the CEO) and my MOLEX pin tool was also a "Custom edition" with my name on it. How cool is that! I've ordered a lot of stuff in my life and there are occasionally some nice touches thrown in but I've never seen anything like this. Amazing. 



First, a few before shots.
The previous post has photos of the motherboard side, here is the other side as it stands.



The basement spaghetti.



ATX 24 pin (this was before dimming the LEDs) 


 
Double PCIe 6+2pin 



I started with the wiring for the graphics card. Didn't take too many photos of this first job (got too engrossed in the process). There will be more photos of other cables with a description of the process later.
Here it is in the works.



Here is the PSU end part way though crimping terminals and melting sleeving. You can see that the individual wires are far from the same length, I explain why further down. 



Many, many hours and a few spliced wires later, here is the finished product. 





Here is where it fits from above...



...and from below.



Next up, the big 24 pin cable for the motherboard.

Time for wiring. Here is most of what I'll be using. 
Mostly from MDPX in Germany and Pexon PCs in the UK. I had to source quite a few specific uncommon parts from eBay and some obscure online retailers. 



I've never done custom wiring in a PC before so I've also bought the MDPC CTX3 crimp tool and pin tools as well as some decent wire strippers.



My order from MDPC-x came with a little drawing on the back of my invoice courtesy of Nils (the CEO) and my MOLEX pin tool was also a "Custom edition" with my name on it. How cool is that! I've ordered a lot of stuff in my life and there are occasionally some nice touches thrown in but I've never seen anything like this. Amazing. 



First, a few before shots.
The previous post has photos of the motherboard side, here is the other side as it stands.



The basement spaghetti.



ATX 24 pin (this was before dimming the LEDs) 


 
Double PCIe 6+2pin 



I started with the wiring for the graphics card. Didn't take too many photos of this first job (got too engrossed in the process). There will be more photos of other cables with a description of the process later.
Here it is in the works.



Here is the PSU end part way though crimping terminals and melting sleeving. You can see that the individual wires are far from the same length, I explain why further down. 



Many, many hours and a few spliced wires later, here is the finished product. 





Here is where it fits from above...



...and from below.



Next up, the big 24 pin cable for the motherboard.

So I'll just start.

Apart from a few missing dimensions or angles, my highest priority was the glass pyramid.
Because gluing Plexiglas was not one of my strengths to date.
After I was able to detect the missing angle by means of a tiny origami pyramid, I first created a small wooden pyramid
and then I tried the Plexiglas gluing.
The experiments were certainly not optimal and were far from perfect, but I knew what I have to pay attention to later .   Now I bought Styrodur in 20,30 and 40mm thickness and built myself a small styrofoam cutter,
which I already discussed in the Worklog Al`Kesh.
The 30 and 40mm Styrodur I now cut into different sized cubes.     As a foundation for the glass pyramid, I decided for 4 stages.
The bottom one is 40mm high, each additional 30mm.
For that, I drew each floor on my countertop and began haphazardly, cube by cube, but within the markers,
to stick together.       After all the floors were glued together, I started to sand down and bevel all the cubes in advance.     Then I painted the pyramid with quartz sand-colored paint.
The quartz sand, I actually need less effect
but if I finish the grit later, I'll get the effect I want     So I finished the work in 2015/16 and parked the pyramid.       Now the next step.
Do not be surprised, I did not take the photos until winter, I built the device myself two years ago.
  With my cheap table saw I could not work precisely because it was very inaccurate and the whole engine was installed wrong.
As a result, the Plexiglas was always stressed too much what caused cracking during bonding.
Unfortunately there was no adjustment screw for this.
So I built for this saw a sliding carriage which compensated for the inclination of the saw blade.       Since I could no longer use the angular adjustment of the circular saw without destroying the sliding carriage
Now I needed a support surface in the appropriate angle for the pyramid.       At this angle, I can now clamp the workpieces using this holder.     So that was it from the past, now it goes on in the now.
On my new Bosch, I now cut all parts of the glass pyramid.     Then I attached each plate individually to the sled and mitered the outside edges     Now I cut the plates to the right height and done.     I am more than satisfied with the result, the plates themselves



as well as the miter fit together perfectly     I now beveled the foundation to 45 degrees to the ground       and pushed the whole thing over the milling table     like it :love: As a base plate I've cut a 12mm mdf plate     which I then edited with the router.     Jo, that makes a difference.
As you can see, I have worked the floors further.     I've now cut another 10x15mm strips for that     and this by means of a wire brush, a comb or just a brush, structured.     Now I have all stripes cut into cubes, rounded all the edges and beveled     and then all these glued to the floors of the pyramid. As you can see very well here, the structure comes out very well after sanding the grit.     Now I've painted everything again with quartz-colored paint and structured.
Depending on how one leads the brush with the sandy color, one can achieve different effects.         As you can already see on the last two pictures I already have some
(yes different, I can not decide: lol Temple entrances and obelisks built but then more next time.

Now you can almost imagine what I'm doing here   So I hope to have at least approximately met your expectations: hmm:
Let's see how it goes on :d

Truly amazing work, you sir are a god amongst men! I seriously need to step my game up!!

You know your shit gooooood.

kids suck, why on earth would i want kids
 
she thinks its cool, she isnt very PC inclined