astrosheen

Those temperatures are standard for a laptop.
The higher temp when plugged in is due to the laptop changing its power settings. When on battery it will restrict the CPU and GPU to optimise battery life. When plugged into power it will have the opportunity to perform at 100% which it does leading to higher power draw and higher temps.
To lower the temps change the windows and/or Nvidia power settings so CPU and GPU will not run at 100%. Though this will lead to the same or slightly better performance as you would have on the battery.

That should be plug and play,  whats the rest of your setup? Any leds light up to show errors?

at 1080p it should game very well for a while and that's all you really need to care about, have fun!

@KoeppColto024470 NZXT makes one
https://www.nzxt.com/products/internal-usb-hub

I believe next makes one that has 3
https://www.nzxt.com/products/internal-usb-hub

With that GPU I am not surprised. The game is just ported from console to PC with no optimisation and runs like a poo even on a lot better systems.

Few improvements:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nBjPPs     the case will fit the cooler 

Sounds to me like that 660 shorted something. To make sure the board is still alive, build a testbench on a piece of wood or cardboard, and only connect your PSU and 1 stick of RAM. If that works, keep adding components until it fails again. If everything works, build everything back in. If it stops working then, your case is shorting the board and you'll need to address that first.
 
If it doesn't work in any way, shape or form, your board is most likely wrecked. 

it's on an old platform and kind of a waste of 1000$

Pros:
Usb and spdif inputs - works great with my setup regardless of if I am using it with my computer or spdif from my tv.
Mic input - excellent addition for mod mic users. Lets you use your fav headphone + mic combo and only occupies a single usb port.
Driverless - plug and play.
Powerful - Can put anything I own to "ear bleeding" level.
Clean - amazingly clear sound, no coloring I can hear whatsoever.
No clipping - from the very lowest volume to the max I can listen to without blowing something up there is 0 fuzz.
Excellent switches - This shouldn't need to be said but some products screw this up so bad I feel the need to make a note when the hi-low gain (and spdif-usb in this case) switch is easy to operate and doesn't require a safety pin to flick.
Rca output - if you wanted to use this for speakers at some point that is totally doable.
Volume knob - Maybe I'm just a weirdo but this has a clicky on/off position, clear markings of what volume you are at, and isn't loose enough to drift when you are done turning it and I just find it very satisfying to use.
Interface - Everything is a physical button so there isn't some horrid lcd screen you can never turn off. The only lights it has are an "on" led which is a mild non-blinding grey as long as you don't point it directly in your line of sight, and a blue led if you turn on dsp (don't turn on dsp, I'm sure it is good for dsp but just don't do it).
Batman - It comes in black.

Cons:
Price - At $230 that is 2x what a Schiit Fulla 2 costs so if you can live without spdif and mic inputs and are ok with the case being silver I'd go with that.
Too much power - if you want to use it with iems then watch the F*** out. At the lowest volume the knob will go to before turning off I need to set my foobar to -60db for a comfortable listening volume.
Volume Knob - When turned all the way down it can turn off for a second but will turn on again in a second or two. DO NOT do what I did and assume that you simply turned the volume down too far to hear anything and start cranking the volume up because when it turns on at high volume out of nowhere you will be in a lot of pain.
Usb type b in 2017- F***ing seriously?!? Anything that isn't using type c in 2017 loses a point.
Separate power line - It has usb input just use that as power + data or just power if spdif mode is on, usb 3 can power it.

Overall: If you are looking for spdif and usb inputs in a single device for >$500, or any dac/amp with a mic input then this is a fantastic buy for the money. 8/10 if used with low power iems, 9/10 if used with anything you can get it off min volume on.

your fans dont turn on till 60c iirc so thats why its warmer

That’s just PUBG being upotomised. Also the 750Ti is weak, so it starts bottlenecking things easily. 

is it just me or is EKWB's site down
https://www.ekwb.com

https://nz.pcpartpicker.com/list/LwTfTH

Get a few synthetic benchmarks of the two, work out the average for each one, then divide the average of each by the price to work out how much performance you are getting per dollar, at least, that's how I do it.

Seriously, though. How DIY do you want to go? Do you want rackmount or tower? How many drives? Users? [INSERT QUESTIONS I FORGET TO ASK]

raspberry pi plus external hdd

There must be a way, since I'm sure people do it. I'd try Googling like mad. 

raspberry pi plus external hdd

980 Ti supports up to 5 monitors. The GPU isn't the issue here.

Yes the screen does not need 100hz to operate. If you do want those extra frames though, just turn down the settings 

lmgtfy... how to uninstall drivers...
 
Use DDU.

Use DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller).

A schematic, a volt meter, and some spare parts.