Caius Filimon

True enough; unfortunately I'm not and know no one who is hahah. Always dreamt of a custom case of the sort, but in the end, I think weight-wise a passively cooled case would be best as the mandatory weight that goes into the case weight also acts as a capable heatsink. My current case just by itself is 2.5kg, and it does nothing but just.. encloses the components. Doesn't act as a heatsink at all, unfortunately.

And that too, a bit of an issue. The reason for lugging the mini itx is upgradability and repairability (and thus, cheaper) EDIT: And just checked again, indeed really quite heavy too. They're not ideal given the price.

How... the hell have I never heard of this? This is brilliant, thank you! But there must be a catch I assume; I'm having a look now though, thank you! EDIT: After a quick look, well, clearly they're much larger than they have to be and space usage isn't as efficient. And probably heavier than they ought to be. But this is suuuper interesting; thanks a lot for sharing!

Hey everyone, I have been lugging my 14 liter mini itx around the world for multiple years, but every time it is simply too much of a gamble in terms of the hand luggage weight, because of portable monitor, speakers, Oculus, mech keyboard, etc. Never have I ever had even my massive backpack weighed, but the stress before a flight, and of course the possible financial ramifications, are just too much, especially with this cursed pandemic. And so I've long dreamt of having the option to 'cut up' my setup if need be, for transportation purposes. https://www.quietpc.com/st-fc8-alpha Would this be able to take care of an underclocked 1700x if I slap a fan or two on the outside of the case? For example I currently have a single industrial 3000 RPM noctua fan, and it makes my 2070 XC Ultra at 120% power limit sit at 55 celsius max in the Mantis Plus case. Extremely noisy, but I'm only after portability and good temps. The case is rated for 65W, and they say it should be able to do 90W too. What if you add two 120CFM+ fans to the outside of the case though? I know the aluminium fins are thick and few, but yeah. The reason for this is that the case weight is 2.5kg, and it also acts as a heatsink, which is great in terms of saving weight. This also means that when travelling, I can feel completely safe knowing I have nothing of value left back at the appartment/hotel/etc, as I can just lug the GPU and 6 liter case with me if need be, and leave the PSU/gpu dock at home. I'd then either buy a cheap GT710, or not, and just use the GDC EXC Beast for m.2 egpu, or even just direct PCIE connection with an external PSU (will buy a dell laptop brick if I go the m.2 egpu route). This would essentially cut down on almost 4kg of weight. And with the imbecilic 7kg limits now implemented by many airlines, that would be huge. Any thoughts or am I nuts?

Oh that's wonderful, I'm very glad you gave it a try. Did you undervolt it as low as it could go using MSI Afterburner as previously discussed? Were there any issues you could see? And could I ask what card you used that on? I suppose if I can just force park 6 cores of the 8, and UV and UC the gpu it should work for about 30 minutes on 20 000 miliamps. I have a portable mini ITX build (portable monitor, etc) I carry around the world, and have a bit of storage on the desktop, so I guess one (albeit very unlikely) usecase could be if I'm on the go, have files stored on the inside drives of the desktop, and really need to access them at short notice. But I would have to find a way to make sure that the computer starts up, every time, with extreme underclocking so it doesn't overwhelm the battery. As a monitor I can just use the default start-up Twomon SE and connect to my phone or tablet. I'll try it out whenever I manage too.

Well, surely there can't be any damage done to the card if it's too heavily UNDER clocked and volted? Have you ever heard of any such issue before? Also, many thanks for the advice!!

Well, that is in case the battery can't supply the said voltage. I'm not sure about the max voltage of the battery, but it's rated to supply 100 watts sustained.

Thank you, I'll give it a try! MSI underclocking seems to be great through the power consumption slider, but can only take it to 50% or 120% power limit max.

I suggest you get a GPD Win Max or GPD Win 3, and just buy a super light weight and thin, touchscreen QHD/120hz external monitor. Ends up quite cheap, far more portable, and still with super good performance. Surface Pros are a bit of a waste of money. Terrible cooling (I think no egpu supporot so no upgradability later down the line, just in case) which will make it a less worthwhile investment long-term imo. So with a thunderbolt you have the choice to upgrade later down the line and do proper gaming. The GPD Win 3 has amazing cooling, especially for its size, so it would do egpu gaming very comfortably. The inbuilt Xe graphics are likewise really quite decent on its 720p screen (which you will NOT notice because of a good color IPS panel that is just 5.5 inches). Advantage of playing wherever, at any time, on the go, no need even for a mouse or table or even your lap.

Hey everyone, I have a power outlet 100w output battery I'd like to use to run my desktop off of if ever required (never will be but it's cool to know I could). I have a 1700x which I have kind of underclocked, forcing it to 2.6ghz max. On battery saver mode many cores are also parked rather often, so accoridng to QuickCPU it seems to consume about 50W max. I've an SSD 2.5, 2.5 hdd, and m.2 pcie ssd. Sadly there is no ECO mode for the first two generations. Would it be enough to underclock the GPU via manually moving the blips on MSI afterburner for clocks, etc? I can only bring it down to 50% power limit, and not lower. I would need the GPU for a display out, ofc, but this EVGA XC Ultra beast can go up to 250+ watts (and often does) so I'm not sure how to heavily restrict its power consumption. Any tips would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Hey everyone! I've just purchased a GPD Win Max and was amazed at how extraordinarily good controller to mouse emulation can be. It has an inbuilt 360 controller and it works amazing with any game I'm throwing at it as long as I change some controls. And it is also great at navigating through windows. Could you please advise if you know of any such software (such as Gopher for 360 to mouse and keyboard emulation) but for TOUCHSCREENS? I have a 2 in 1 laptop as well, and I'd love to be able to play games in tablet mode with it (no keyboard or mouse available). The screen is more than large enough to allow for on-screen controls without a problem. Is there a way to have on-screen touchscreen controls that translate into keyboard and mouse input? Thank you very much for your help!!

The Dooge s95 pro if you want chipset performance. Blackview BV9800 Pro otherwise.

Magnetic clip-on cables. Protect USB port as well as provide faster charging. Wireless charging is rather dumb if not very high wattage.

I think it's simply a case of terrible design that metal unibody phones bend. I've never had a metal unibody phone bend on me, even if used very heavily and not with much care. For example my current Red Magic 3 is hard as a rock; it literally cannot be bent. As has Jerry Rigs Everything proved. With regards to connectivity, it's really not an issue either, again, as long as the design isn't crap. I've never had bluetooth or 4G issues with my metal phones. And I've always used both glass and metal phones at the same time. As for the thermals, well, I also have a Huawei tablet; the M3 8.4 incher. The second I apply a fan to its back, its GPU performance goes up by almost 30% in my experience. It's a huge difference. If you have better thermals, you can also overclock without any concern. All it takes is the CPU to be pasted to the metal unibody. It's so simple. And if you don't overclock, it ensures better health and stability for the processor; why not keep it as cool as possible? Provides performance and/or stabiliy/longevity. As for the metal scratching more easily, there can indeed be a different type of alloy used. If that's too expensive, then just let people use phone cases as they are forced to right now for fear of cracking and destroying their entire phone (destroying water proofing and structural integrity). A couple scuffs are far preferable to a broken back. And wireless charging is useless. Just buy magnetic cable pins. Get far faster charging with the same convenience. Also with the added benefit of keeping your USB ports clean of dust and damage. And let us not forget THIS: GAMING PHONE MAKERS decided to change to god damned glass backs! How brain dead can they possibly be??? To then also release a phone cooler to slap on the GLASS BACK of the phones??????? Can ANYONE explain this?

Thank you for your help. Unfortunately, all of these are likewise wastefully heavy. I guess there's no options out there...