Shane86

You may be able to boot, but in order to avoid any potential driver conflicts, i'd plan on doing an OS re-install as you transition to the new board.

Through what mechanism are you running the speed test? how is CPU utilization during the test?

i bought this guy a few months back for similar reasons, and it's been absolutely flawless. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I92T754/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 it's been super helpful to attach one device and have my fire stick, laptop, phone, etc all auto join and be good to go.. But be aware that you may be in for a bandwidth hit, as with multiple devices sharing one "connection", if the hotel is doing a per-device bandwidth capping, you'll be sharing that bandwidth among all those devices vs each getting their own allocations. It's one of the main reasons i bought a fire stick, as it has the capability to get through captive web portals.

That's going to be a little rough for game storage.. I'm running an EX920 SSD, that i partitioned off about 256 of to run PrimoCache on my 4TB spinning disk hitatchi pro. It's a great balance of never having to manage the content of the NVME, and keeping my most frequently played games nice and snappy... but when they load off the disk.. you feel it. and that's on a 7200

This could be really cool.. bring in a few more interesting categories for the build... settle on a competition OS (likely UnRaid) Most Storage Fastest Transfer times Lowest power consumption (idle and loaded) Then do Most simultaneous Plex streams (1080p and 4k) at some specific settings.

What with all the budget network gear claiming 1Gbps performance, and knowing you guys have not only fat Internet pipes, but stout internal networking capabilities and gloriously fast NVME gear all around, i'd love to see a video laying out kind of tiered network performance of a few different Ethernet adapters, switches, and some routers. For home use stuff we're generally only talking in the 1Gbps range, but how many off the shelf routers can get close to using that full Gig wan port before they choke? Is that $10 TrendNet switch truly going to give you the same performance as the $30 Netgear at the same port count and speed? Is it worth shelling out $444 for meraki's 8p+2sfp switch?! ? Maybe even do some craigslist benching on retired commercial gear and see if learning a little will have you outrunning the consumer stuff?

All the QAM channels look great... i don't know enough about that OFDM though.. I don't know if that reads in tradition of SNR and and power.. but i would say that channel's SNR is well out of QAM spec and shows a high rate of corrected errors.. Like i said.. no idea the specs on it.. but could indicate an issue.

You can up your LAN speed potentially in that price range with some decent gear, but WAN speed (internet) you'll need to talk to your ISP. Depending on the hardware he has, he may be able to subscribe to a higher bandwidth tier for a billing cycle, and then drop back down.. but that may impact other billing factors. Stick to truly LAN games and the internet bandwidth won't be a factor.

Ah, my bad on the 1.2GBps thing.. I haven't stayed up on DOCSIS tech since i moved out of that field. good they're segmenting the nodes more, but that's a larger build out that may not be in OPs area, and regardless, you're still sharing copper with other people.. people who can impact the signal. I've definitely seen dense areas though have issues with channel saturation impacting stuff on up to 16x. Copper's a great transmission medium, but as a conductor, it's always vulnerable to interference too. Can't tell you how many times i heard stories of people getting tagged for signal ingress because they hooked up a VCR backwards. Less of a thing these days, but your neighbors can absolutely have an impact on you.

Have you looked at HugesNet's service offerings and packages? They're abysmal. a 25x3 connection, with a 50GB transfer limit.. is $140 a month.

depending on your levels of network competence and gear, a dual wan setup could be configured to have route preference only for certain destinations to an interface. If you're good doing this singularly for one computer, you could add a second NIC, plug the fast connection only into it, and set routes for Steam/Origin/Uplay to only use that connection.

if you're using a cable modem, using copper, you're still on shared channels. effectively, how DOCSIS3+ cable modem works is that it takes a bunch of cable channels, which are a certian freq wide (about 30mbps) and kinda sticks them all together (simplifying here, bear with me) and your modem talks to the node on these channels. a 32x modem means you support up to 32x channels simultaneously. 3.1 spec does some other cool stuff with how wide the channels are, etc. but in the end, the technology is physically capable of delivering 1.2GBps But.. you're sharing this copper with likely a few dozen people in your neighborhood. They all have modems that will talk on probably some of the same channels, because channel reservation is big $$$. So, at a good time there might be 48 channels in your neighborhood, but your neighbor's are all trying to use some of those too, and you're all sharing the same copper in your area. unlike Fiber, which is all the way back to a bigger fiber with those GBps.. So, only when the channels are low/non utilized would you likely have the availability to get closer to your full 1GBps. The flat answer is there's only so much bandwidth available on your node, you're sharing it with others, and you're only going to get what's available without impacting the neighbors. This all goes out the window if you actually have a fiber drop to your home, which would terminate in a QAM modulator to feed the modem directly. This is something that happens, because new auth systems are expensive.. but just running on copper and calling it "close enough" is more likely for comcast. You can try and help this by making sure your fittings and levels are optimized, to cut down on any error correcting the modem/node would need to do in talking to you.. but past that, you're probably getting what you're going to get.

I came into a bit of an interesting situation today.. Earlier this week, I was building a new server on a live stream, so i needed an Ethernet jack near the computer i was streaming from. I dug into my "old stuff" pile of hardware that i had before i moved, and fetch an old TP Link TL-SG1005D that i had previously used between my home server and desktop when i wanted to split the drop at my desk.. patched it in.. online, everything seemed hunky-dory. Today, i'm surfing around on that same streaming desktop and noticing lower performance from steam, funky page loads. run a few pings, and boom.. loosing packets.. Surely this is my ISP.. no. it's INSIDE THE NETWORK! (cue murdered teens) Verified my server to server migration happening in the background is still happening over the direct wired cable between them, no real load on my Meraki 8-P switch.. then it hit me.. that TP-Link is still in the mix. Yank it out, and internal pings go from 6-7ms to sub 1 to the router. Holy Crap. I'd been running this turd of a switch, figuring anything with the word Gigabit on it wouldn't begin to be tapped out for my home use for years.. and it's likely been messing with my universe for as long.. so this got me thinking.. I don't know of anywhere, or can find anything, of people benching budget networking gear, and how many people may be out there in the same situation.. oblivious to the impact on their network a cheap switch is actually having.

After thinking about this stuff for a day or so, i remembered we have a Vizio 4k 39.5 display in my office somwhere.. Did some digging this morning, and managed to hunt it down. After some serious color correcting, i've been using it most of the day. My hypothesis on the DPI was effectively correct. This is not a high end panel by any estimate, but it doesn't look worse pixel/graininess than my Apple Cinema HD Display.. the color sucks though.. i really need a calibrator. 6 windows is pretty damn nice. It's a lot of working space, but it's hard to organize. Sure, you can windows snap to 1080p segments in 4 corners, but it feels like wasted space.. Manually organizing windows to get to the 6 panel layout is a bit of a pain.. need to see if there's some way to customize the snap to different dimensions, sectors, etc.. There's also a fair bit of head turning, but actually less than my 3 wide normal monitor setup, but there's a bit more up and down. A stand of some sort would likely help significantly. The whole thing's being driven off my laptop (on the right) through my thunderbolt dock from plugless.

I'd say you need to look at what size you're going for, and the DPI/PPI. As others have mentioned here, latency will likely be worse on a TV vs even a standard monitor, saying nothing about high refresh gaming monitors. But if you expect to use it as a daily work station, then you're looking more at the DPI/ppi numbers. Using this handy dandy website: https://www.sven.de/dpi/ it's pretty easy to do some comparison of resolution vs size impact on monitor PPI. For instance, a 24" 1080p display has a PPI of 91.79, and is maybe a bit grainy, but acceptable for sitting at a desk 1-2 ft away. a 46" 4k TV on the other hand, will have a PPI of 95.78, so actually look clearer at the same distance, and give you significantly more workspace than the 1080p display if you're scaling both to 100% I'm getting tempted to pull the trigger on this experiment myself for my work laptop. A 42" 4k tv is available in the $200-300 range now, and would be the rough equivalent of having 4 21" 1080p monitors in a 2x2 grid pattern but with more flexibility as there will be no bezels to combat.