Calidus

This RA tech guy attacked them over methods of testing, while GN's and HWUB's tests seem to be similar. I don't watch RA tech's videos so I don't know who they are, but calling out two reviewers over old cpu's brings up questionable bias when their testing is completely different.
If you read GN's comment in the video he brings up that RA tech turned off some cores and called it good, that isn't how you test core for core benchmarking. The AMD FX cores don't work like more conventional CPU cores do as the FX cores have shared FP units, so that dismisses the whole accuracy argument for me personally.

Make sure the drives aren't in RAID, they're probably configured as a mirror. 
Also make sure the controller is in HBA / IT Mode / Passthrough mode. If its an old controller it may not do this, so you may need to make each disk its own 1 Disk Raid. 
 
Once that's done you should then have 2 disks available in UnRAID. 
UnRAID has a 'Pre Clear' plugin you can add for erasing the drives and prepping them to be added to the UnRAID array. 

Do what specifically?
You install Windows on your SSD (because you want that speed in it starting up), then go into Disk Management and you can assign a letter to your HDD.
 
As for how to install Windows on your drive, this video by Paul's Hardware does a really good job of explaining it:
If you don't want to watch the full video, there are timestamps. The timestamps of interests are from 1:00 - 10:00, but the entire video is very helpful so I recommend it to you, if you're not too familiar with setting up a PC/installing Windows.

Some people don't even format, I've got a laptop in the past that had windows with their user account which didn't have a password. Thankfully they didn't leave any photos and it just had what seemed to be a bunch of school work. I obviously didn't keep anything, just formatted the drive, but their seems to be people who don't take it seriously or simply don't care.

Someone else can chime in if they no better but from my understanding of ssds, the temperature even though high doesn't go near the limits so I doubt that was the cause and the TBW should be way higher then what you have written to it. So sounds like it was faulty, I'd RMA it.
 
I dunno about the whole heat spreader situation, these drives come with a copper based one right? If so are you using another one on top of that? If not and it's just your motherboards m.2 heatsinks, I don't think that's an issue either.

If it helps my Super Flower Leadex II 750w doesn't have any audiable coil whine, at least not louder then my case fans. Granted this doesn't mean the 850W won't..nor if it's similar in design as it's probably newer. 😕

The bigger question is whether a Samsung QVO is worth it. There are much better SATA SSDs available and in most countries they cost less. The Crucial MX500, WD Blue 3D and Sandisk Ultra 3D are all better SATA SSDs and cost less. Samsung PRO and EVO ranges are good SATA SSDs performance wise but their high price makes them a poor value against faster and cheaper budget NVMes like that Kingston you're looking at. The AData SU800 and Seagate BarraCuda 120 are also ok but I would generally go for the others if the price is the same or within a few dollars.
 

So I ended up ordering a iFi Nano iONE, I prefer new so I can get my warranty and this one is the only one mentioned by members which is actually available in my country (ignoring any SMSL or Topping device), plus I read some promising reviews. I'll let you know how it goes when it arrives.

What are you looking to use the drive for? iirc Optane is only good for caching, having the SSD for your boot drive, programs and using your current drive for evrything else would be better imo

hey I looked into it a bit, your right it looks like with the latest BIOS the FX8320E should be supported.. note it is a beta firmware. 
 
I see that in your motherboard RAM compatability it says:
 
"Note: Only one DIMM per channel is supported for DDR3-1866MHz and higher speed as using an AM3+ CPU." 
 
which seems strange to me.. maybe try turning xmp off and run at 1600 or lower speed? Also, What kind of cooler did you put on? I noticed that the weight limit for cooler is 450gm which seems a bit low. 
 
SSD compatability might be dodgy on this motherboard too as I see that in the bios firmware notes they had an update to increase ssd compatability at one point.. is it possible to try with a regular hard drive? 
 
anyways might not be much help but yeah its a weird issue, maybe someone else has some better ideas. 
 

LL's are Light Loops and are focused on a wide range of lighting controls. 
Quiet vs Performance Editions are lower vs higher rpm versions of the same fan although some benchmarks have shown that QE's are quieter at the same rpm. http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1342-page5.html
Where are you using the fans and why are you looking at Corsair fans in particular?
Performance Editions are loud and not worth using unless you give no cares about noise. 
The High Pressure label in the third link is just a mislabelling of the same Performance Edition from the first link but with a 3pin connector instead of 4pin for pwm.
The Low Noise label is just a translation for the Quiet Edition which is the lower rpm version of the fan in the first link.
AF120 PE's are slightly worse than the QE's in acoustics but they have a wider rpm range. 
These fans linked are generally not a great value and are often more expensive than similarly performing fans from other manufacturers. This is probably due to a combination of additional accessories in the box in the form of plastic rings, rubber corner dampeners, and the Corsair brand name.

What cooler is on the machine atm? as you may be able to just replace the fan.

I've used many Arctic fans over the years, for the price and if you want quiet fans, they are very good. So for your old machine, they'll certainly do.

Cleaning that won't really make any difference. If you absolutely needed to satisfy your OCD though, metal polish cream, a microfiber cloth and about 5min would get that better than new. I've done just that before using Blue Magic polishing cream from local auto parts store. Use that on all sorts of metals.

Looks fine to me, maybe a little "dull"-ish...

For most people, I'd say so. Most people don't things that require that much bandwidth.

Deluge master race, any1?

use WSUS Offline http://www.wsusoffline.net/

Ah yes, that sucks. Well whenever you do upgrade, you now know to keep them.

So, instead of bickering about how you can get 2% more performance from one vendor or another, i'll attempt an answer.
If you want to buy a card now, go for it, it will last you for years at 60 fps.
Have you, in the past, had good luck with a specific vendor such as team red or team green ?
Then by all means, buy a card from that vendor, either one will do pretty much the same thing, which is to say, display your video.
All other arguments are invalid because you said you wanted 60fps...
not 60 fps in a specific game or on a specific monitor or with a specific driver or setup or game or engine or ....omg who cares.
 
If you have the money and want to upgrade, pick your fav team and get one  

Good news indeed. Well hopefully a replacement motherboard isn't too pricey for you, it may even still be within warranty?
 
Of course if you see no performance drop, it may not be too important until you next have an upgrade.

First thing that springs to mind is possible damage depending how your PSU died. (I've had one kill a GPU and Motherboard before)
 
However, I suggest trying other PCIe slots if you have any spare and to also try different outputs from your GPU, so if your using DisplayPort, try the DVI port or whichever applies to you.
 
The only other test would be to try in another PC if at all possible, if you still have warranty and nothing works it may be best to send it off.
 
I can't think of anything else which would help at this moment, but let us know how it goes.

Media Feature Pack for N and KN versions of Windows 10 Media Feature Pack for N and KN versions of Windows 8.1 Media Feature Pack for Windows 7 N with Service Pack 1 and Windows 7 KN with Service Pack 1 (KB968211)

I find it laughable that people are ignoring a post in this thread posted by Raytsou which links to Tomshardware, confirming its a Prime number bug and yet everyone's still going on and on about Prime95.
 
 
As Mister Snow also tried to point this out, I foresee people ignoring this post.
 
 

I heard that the heavy workload the new cpus can't handle has something to do with prime numbers. I have no idea, I think I just read it somewhere.