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That is a kit of B die memory, and not a terrible price for B die (I've seen better but 4000C16 is a very solid bin for $85 new). I haven't used that exact kit but I've overclocked a lot of different B die. So there's a couple things that you need to know
Changing the frequency and timings for better performance on RAM is still technically called overclocking. This is a nitpick, but just saying.  On Ryzen, you want to max out the Infinity Fabric (FCLK). On 95% of Ryzen 5000 series CPUs, the max stable Infinity fabric is 1900MHz FCLK. For the best latency, you want to have the memory and Infinity Fabric running in 1:1 mode, so if the FCLK is at 1900MHz, the DRAM frequency needs to be at 1900MHz (or 3800MT/s since RAM is double data rate). The single CCD chips like the 5600X do occasionally do a bit higher than 1900MHz, but it's still not a high likelihood, so your real aim should be for 3800MT/s.  CAS Latency is a function of frequency, so the calculated latency at 4000CL16 and 3600CL14 is basically identical (technically the 3600C14 config is faster). That said, the latency that matters for performance is the latency between the cores and the RAM, so running the infinity fabric higher means that you get lower latency, thus 3800MT/s CL16 is actually the same or better than 3600 CL14, even though the calculated latency is better on the 3600 CL14 config.  There's two ways you can go about doing this overclock, either enabling XMP and lowering the frequency down to 3800MHz (still an effective strategy and definitely quicker), or manually tune everything. Manually tuning everything can get you an extra ~5% performance if you do it right, since the sub-timings really do affect how a memory kit will perform.  If you want to tune manually, aim for primary timings like 3800MT/s 14-14-14-21, settle for something like 3800MT/s 16-16-16-24. 1.5V DRAM is completely safe for B die, and given how those heat spreaders actually look like they do something, you might be able to go for something closer to 1.6V if you give it a fan (B die is very temperature sensitive, so the reason why most people say don't go over 1.5V for daily use is the performance differences are usually pretty small going above that and since the memory will be running hotter, you might actually be getting worse performance at those higher voltages). Sub-timings are important too, but for the most part you'll run the lowest you can for each of the different registers, making sure to save profiles regularly in case the system stops wanting to boot and you need to clear CMOS.  Set the SOC voltage (what the memory controller runs on) to 1.15V, most of the Ryzen 3000/5000 series chips sweet spot somewhere between 1.1V and 1.2V, so so 1.15V is a pretty safe bet for what will work fine. I wouldn't run it above 1.2V for daily though, but it's completely safe running 1.15V daily.  IIRC the B550M Bazooka isn't an exceptionally good motherboard for memory overclocking, but it's definitely not bad, and you should be able to run 3800MHz at decent timings no problem. 

Ah, I see, yeah that's likely your issue then... power cables are usually not interchangeable between PSUs and should not be attempted unless you know they really are compatible. 
Good luck with the new cable then. 👍

I would remove what ever is in the computer and try again.

When installing PSUs, it's sometimes better to remove the motherboard as the board and heatsinks will get in the way.

not enough RGB/10

These deals for old "gaming" keyboards are awesome when you know what you're buying. That's how I bought my Blackwidow 2012 (for the same price actually).
The great thing about it is that if a few switches stop working, it's a great opportunity to learn how to solder and you can replace them cheaply and easily.
And if you decide you want to build a keyboard to your specifications, you can reuse the switches if you like them. That's how I reused the MX Blues from the Blackwidow in my new keyboard.
That price is a great deal even if you just buy it for the switches, as a 104 of those would cost way more.

Hello and welcome to my guide for performing the BSEL mod on your LGA 775 CPU. In this guide, I will focus on the easiest BSEL mod, the tape mod for 1066 MHz FSB CPUs.
 
Disclaimer:
Overclocking is never a guarantee, and it does not always work, for example, my Q6700 was not stable after I had performed the BSEL mod in my Dell OptiPlex 755.
A mod like this will most likely void your warranty, but this is LGA 775 we are talking about, so you probably don’t have that anyway.
I am not responsible for any damage to you/your equipment, proceed at your own risk.
 
A quick word on LGA 775 overclocking
With LGA 775 CPUs, we overclock by increasing the Front Side Bus (FSB). The front side bus is quad pumped; therefore, a 266 MHz is 1066 MHz effective. The frequency of a LGA 775 CPU is determined by its FSB speed multiplied by its multiplier.
FSB x Multiplier = Clock Speed
Example (Core 2 Duo E6600/Core 2 Quad Q6600):
266.66 MHz x 9 = 2400 MHz
For more details on LGA 775 overclocking, see this great guide by @harrynowl:
 
With the BSEL mod, we can raise the FSB of a 1066MHz CPU to 1333MHz, resulting in a 25% increase in clock speed.
Example (Core 2 Duo E6600/Core 2 Quad Q6600):
Before: 266.66 MHz x 9 = 2400 MHz
After:    333.33 MHz x 9 = 3000 MHz
 
All we need to do this is a tiny piece of tape!
Simply place a piece of tape above this pin on your 1066 FSB LGA 775 CPU:
 

 
Steps for how to perform the mod can be found at 0:38 in my video.
Materials needed (not really, but i reccomend having all this to make things easy):
Tape Scissors 1066MHz FSB CPU Something pointy Tweezers Patience  
If you want to see benchmarks for the performance gains, see 1:20 in the video.
 
 
Specs of the benchmarking rig:
MSI GTX 770 Gaming OC
ASUS P5Q Deluxe (P45)
8GB (4x2GB) DDR2 800MHz CL6
Kingston UV400 240GB (OS)
Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 750GB (Games)
Corsair TX750 (750W)
Windows 7 Ultimate x64

I've spent some quality time with a number of Inspiron 530 PCs, and their close relative the Vostro 200 (sexiest machine ever, btw). Their motherboards are...picky. Use a matching set of RAM, and be careful which RAM you order. Stick to stuff like Samsung, Hynix, anything Dell branded. For whatever reason, those mid to late 2000s Dells are very picky about RAM. I'm impressed you got it to boot with a mismatched set at all.
 
I highly, highly recommend spending $8-10 to get a Q6600, then tape modding it to get it to 2.99GHz. The difference between an E8500 and a Q6600 at 3GHz is night and day, just make sure you have the right motherboard to handle it. If you open up your PC and look for the motherboard model (should be something like G33M02), you can do some quick research and see if your board is quad-capable.
 
Also, reset your CMOS. Sorry, that should have been step one.
 
The card sounds to me like it's a dud, which isn't a bad thing because a 645 is really nothing special. See if you can find a 750 Ti for a much better experience.
 
For reference, I have a Vostro 200 with a G45M03 motherboard and a 750 Ti, with an 8GB set of matched RAM. I'm able to play damn near anything short of the latest AAA titles that are starting to demand more than 8GB of RAM, more than 2 GB of VRAM at even the lowest settings and just need more CPU power than the Q6600 can handle. If you're going to pick a system to use as an upgrade platform, you picked the right one. LGA775 Dells are gold for that sort of thing.

I'm going to go with bad gpu on this one. 
I know the 1000 series uses way less power, but you are able to pass post and get into windows off the integrated on the inspiron while having the 645 plugged in, which is a little fishy if we wanted to consider this a PSU issue.  
 
Something just seems wrong about that 645.
 
And considering how much newer the 1050 is,  and the fact that its working in this inspiron, I'm going to rule out compatibility as well.
 
I would send it back to the seller, as DOA.  

You should upgrade to something like a 1070 if you're unhappy with your 1050ti's performance. There's nothing wrong with owning a 1050ti, so no, don't feel bad.
 
You will see a performance boost with a 1060, but it won't be that incredible, plus GPU prices are a mess right now.

Lastly, if you worked to earn your GPU you should feel proud to own it, not feel bad about it. 

I see no reason you should upgrade your PSU any time soon. I would not upgrade it until you upgrade your graphics card to something more power hungry. Although any GPU more powerful than a 1050ti would require a better cpu to avoid bottlenecking (an i7 2600 should be fine for anything up to about a GTX 1080).

especially buisiness prebuilts are not as bad as people make them out to be, dell doesnt want damage claims on their hand for half an office building of dells spontaniously combusting from a mild power surge
 
i'd say swap outt he power supply when/if you go for a bigger case and/or more powerful components like a higher end GPU.

I'd say so. I recently bought a "like new" headset for like 10 bucks cheaper than brand new. Package was a bit scratched up, but the product itself was fine. It even still had the plastic on it for me to peel off.
Amazon's website says this:
Admittedly though, I haven't had a ton of experience buying like this. Since motherboards are so easy to break, if I were you I would at least make sure I could return it in case anything is wrong.