RocketJump

So I just picked up an MSI Prestige 15 laptop and wanted to undervolt it via BIOS. I booted into the BIOS and used the key combination to unlock advanced settings but I can't seen to find the options to set an offset. Maybe I'm just blind, but does anyone where this setting is?

Pretty close! lol I'll take a look. Is the QC better with these laptops? What's your experience with them? I heard the XPS line is good IF you get one that's well built so it seems like Dell's QC is the big issue with this line.

Interesting, thanks for bringing this to my attention.

I've been looking for the perfect laptop for a while now but every time I think I found something there always a catch. I was originally looking at a Dell XPS 13 because they're pumped so much by reviewers and tech sites. After doing a little digging it seems that they suffer from major QC issues and their customer support is gutter trash. I looked into Lenovo but none of their laptops come with aluminum frames which is something I was looking for. My sister has 2 work HP laptops that have been very problematic so I passed on those as well. Eventually I said screw it and picked up a 2020 MacBook Pro 13 inch but now it looks like Apple will switch to ARM in the next few years which means developers will likely drop support ASAP like they did when Apple transitioned from PPC to Intel. I've spent so much time looking for something that I really wanted to keep the MacBook but I can't justify spending $2400 CAD for a laptop might have its lifespan cut short because of ARM. Does anyone have any suggestions for a 13-15 inch laptop with excellent build quality, a 10th gen i5/i7, and 16GB of RAM for $2500 CAD MAX? I want to keep this for the next 7 years.

Agree, but I bent right over and got a 2020 13 inch pro 10th gen.

I could, I would just be really really bitter if my $4k laptop stopped being supported early. It might be unlikely but they did this once before so who knows.

In the market for a laptop and decided I wanted to get another Macbook since I had a good experience with my last one. After doing some digging, it looks like the 2016-2019 models had the infamous "butterfly keyboard" that's prone to breaking so my options are to buy a brand new one for a ridiculous amount of money (and possibly lose support early if apple handles the ARM move like they handled the switch from PPC to Intel), or grab a 2015 since they came with the old style keyboards. I've checked around and some reputable mac resellers have them listed from $1200 USD and up which seems like a lot for a 5 year old machine, especially when these same resellers are selling 2018 models for just a few hundred more. What kind of price range should I try and find for a base model 15 inch 2015 mbp?

I totally forgot about the surface laptop 3! I think I'm going for it.

Yeah I had MacBook for years with no issues and that was my second option. I'm just worried about their switch to ARM next year and how older machines will be handled.

Just curious about the build quality on the Dell XPS line? I was about to pull the trigger on a 13 but I'm hearing that their quality control is hit or miss. If anyone here has had an XPS for more than a few years, how is it holding up?

CAD or USD?

Really out of the loop with prices but I was looking to sell my 2 year old desktop with these specs: CPU: 8700K Cooler: Cryorig R1 Universal Board: Aorus Gaming 5 GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 FTW2 RAM: G.Skill RipJaws DDR4 3000 PSU: Corsair RM650i Storage: 1x Samsung 850 evo 256GB / 1x Samsung 850 evo 500GB Case: Corsair Crystal 460X

You're right, but why shut down over sleep?

This I did not know, awesome! Now if only I can figure out why VRVOUT isn't displayed on my main machine I'd be a happy camper.

I second this recommendation. It also provides a cubic ass-load of other stats and you can display your temps in the system tray.

This is where I started back into 2015. Did a few months of Python then moved to Java for 6 months and finally ended up settling on Android Development.

Personally, I'd rather spend the same amount or even a little more for a secure device than a device that's no longer supported / near EOL with better specs. There's a lot of cheap Android One devices but if you want to go even cheaper, there's Android Go. For most people use cases, you don't really need a fast device. The only situation that I can see someone wanting bleeding edge hardware in their phones is if they're into mobile games. My phone has a Snapdragon 625 released 4 years ago and it's still more than fine for browsing, running banking apps, youtube etc.

Why would you buy a near 3 year old device though? They wouldn't even make them anymore by then and there's new Android One phones being released constantly.

This is exactly why people should only consider Pixel or Android One devices, you're guaranteed to get 3 years of monthly security updates. If you have the cash, buy a pixel. If not, there's plenty of cheap Android One phones. I'm using a Xiaomi Mi A1 that I picked up for $300 CAD back in 2017 and it's still getting official monthly security updates.

Well damn, that worked. Normally I'd have sound coming from my speakers and my headset plugged in. I removed my headset and reloaded it a few times and it seems to have fixed the issue. Wonder why you can't have 2 audio devices plugged in when loading the app.

Since the beginning of time I've had this issue where launching discord cuts out sound on my PC until it's finished loading. I've never been able to figure out why so I'm just curious if anyone else has this problem and knows how to fix it?

So I was deleting some files off an SD card on my main desktop w/ Aorus z370 Gaming 5 motherboard when windows explorer crashed. I was able to open task manager but couldn't open anything from the ctrl alt delete window so I tried to sign out. After 2 minutes on the signing out screen I did a hard reboot and when I powered back on, my board threw error 64 at me and took 10 minutes to post. After it finally posted, it booted into Windows just fine and I've reset it a few times since and everything seems back to normal. I'm just wondering what might have caused that? The rest of my specs are below: 8700K OC to 4.7GHz Aorus Gaming 5 16GB G.Skill Ripjaw V DDR4 GTX 1080

It's a 4c/8t CPU that performs slightly worse than a 6c 8600k/9600k which is perfectly fine with those cards.

This is what I figured. I only use this PC for the small amount of gaming I do @ 1440p so I guess I'll just leave it stock. Even If I did OC, I wouldn't gain that much at this resolution anyways.