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About Nanoray

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  1. I came with a capsule-type halogen but I put an LED in it. It may be that the new PSU has enough extra insrush current compared to the old one that it's just past what the breaker can cope with; reviews suggest a 7-8 Amp difference at our mains voltage.
  2. I have taken the lamp off the strip and put it on its own switch - I noticed that both times the trip happened the lamp had been left on the previous night. I know it's on the same ring, but at least it won't be a cold-start. The lamp is very old - sticker on the bottom say 1997 - so I will replace it with a USB LED one shortly. I might get a supply with a lower inrush current as well.
  3. I have my PC plugged into a power bar with speakers, monitor, and a lamp. A couple of times I have switched the power bar on at the wall and the house breaker has tripped - this is before I switch the PC on, and I have never had a trip with the PC running, even while stress testing or gaming. How likely is it that the PSU is responsible? The system is fairly new and this has only happened since I put a new PSU in it. This has only happened twice so far so it's difficult to isolate the problem at the moment.
  4. I am undervolting a Ryzen 3600 and found that it will run at 4.0 GHz at 1.175 V at maximum load. However, I would prefer it not to run at this voltage all the time - I still want it to be able to drop down to its idle levels. Is there a way to do this in the BIOS? I am aware of negative offset but reducing it more than around 50 mV causes performance to drop... and it's a long way from 1.3 V to 1.175 V...
  5. My PC power supply has taken making a loud pop every time it's switched on at the mains. It works perfectly otherwise. I opened it up to take a look (I know what I'm doing, don't worry) and caught a loud spark between a brass plate and the large capacitor next to it; picture below - the blue line. Would it be safe to flood this gap with high-temp silicone to try and stop the spark jumping across? Any other suggestions for preventing this spark? Cheers, NR.
  6. I've searched this one but can't find an answer I understand/agree with, so here goes: My monitor's max refresh rate is 75 Hz (well... 77 Hz if I overclock it). I want to have a desktop refresh rate of 60 Hz for 60p content (which looks jerky at anything other than 60 Hz), but I want the full 75 (or 77) Hz for games. My graphics card is capable of a lot more than 75 FPS at the game settings I use but, as I understand it, 200 fps going into a 60 Hz monitor ends up as 60 fps at the eye - the monitor's framerate is limited by the monitor refresh. (If I'm wrong in this, please educate me.) Is there a way to tell the driver to use 75 Hz for games and 60 Hz for desktop? I see this question asked a lot - especially in the nvidia forums! - but no real answers. Cheers, M.
  7. Also on NH-D15, ambient is low-20's. Stock clocks, 62.5 mV undervolt. I'm gaming at mid-50's, video encoding/benching at high 60's. Nothing to worry about, IMO. (However, the idle spikes are very annoying; had to use some pretty aggressive fan smoothing to stop them ramping up and down.)
  8. My ears - the fan is ramping up and down (even with smoothing enabled). And CPU-Z - that's the only one that doesn't cause the "observer effect", I've read.
  9. (Asus ROG Strix B450-F, latest BIOS, latest chipset drivers, Windows 10) Just installed my new Ryzen 3600 and noticed that it is stuck at 4 GHz at all times and the CPU temperature continually "cycles" up and down, oscillating between high-30's and high-40's at idle. The vcore isn't locked but bounces around between 0.7 and 1.3+ V. My old 2600 used to drop to 1.5 GHz and stay there at idle, with the voltage regularly living below 1V, and that's how I want my 3600 to behave. All I have done in the BIOS is enable "global c-state control", set the RAM frequency to 3600 MHz, and set a -0.05 V undervolt - that's it. I haven't tampered with any clock speeds or other voltages or PBO or XFR or anything like that. I've been looking for a "Cool and Quiet" option but it doesn't seem to have one, and I've tried both Windows and Ryzen's "balanced" power setting with a 5% minimum setting. Does anybody know how to get the 3000-series to downclock through the BIOS and/or Windows? I'm not installing Ryzen Master - I don't trust it.
  10. I'll be installing my new Ryzen 3600 over the weekend and testing it next week with a view to keeping stock performance for the best possible temperature. This being the case, I was expecting to undervolt, but I have come across a new (to me) technique involving capping the CPU at a lower power limit; PPT, I think the setting is called. I'm given to understand that a straight (offset) undervolt moves the load/voltage curve down at all loads, but what happens with PPT limiting at lower loads? Does it only affect contrived, balls-out CPU stability tests, or will I see some lower temperatures in games? Any insights appreciated - many thanks in advance. (P.S. - also curious as to whether PBO should be enabled or not when it comes to undervolting!)
  11. So they rename the AGESA for a new architecture but carry the number system over?! Wow - that's extremely stupid! It's Zen 2 - at least start it with a two! But thanks for the heads-up - it seems I have got the latest AGESA after all!
  12. I've just come from the ITX version of this same board I had AGESA on a pre-Zen 2 BIOS! Something odd is going on here...
  13. Just updated the BIOS on my new B450-F Strix to get it ready for a 3600 next month. (I also did the recommended chipset driver update beforehand). However, CPU-Z is reporting that despite the BIOS being the latest one, the AGESA version is (see pic). http://imgur.com/KMP7x73.jpg[/img] The latest AGESA definitely is not - what's going on? The changelogs for one of the earlier BIOSes includes an explicit update to the latest AGESA, but wouldn't the latest BIOS contain that code? Should I have updated via that BIOS first before going all the way to the latest one? That seems daft, if so. Ryzen 3000 is validated for the BIOS I've just installed (in fact, it's validated from v2008), but will the old AGESA cause problems with any prospective Zen 2's? Many thanks.
  14. First post!:D Just added a BD-R drive to my new setup and it's working, but it's not behaving the way I want it to: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What's happening in my current W7 computer/what I want to happen in my new W10 one *insert a disc - disc loads up automatically and "overrides" Windows; contents display/playback starts/whatever, with top priority and no prompting from me *eject a disc (/insert another one) - My Computer immediately ejects the content and reverts to an empty drive (/auto-loads the content of the new disc) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What's actually happening in my new computer/what I don't want to happen *insert a disc - disc spins up but "waits" for me to poke the drive in My Computer before loading the contents *eject a disc (/insert another one) - My Computer "retains" the disc description until poked (/does not auto-load the content of the new disc until poked) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hope ^that made sense. I've been into Autoplay and set the preferences the same as my current W7 system but I can't see anything else I can try - any ideas? Any way to "prioritze" the optical drive in Explorer? I'm totally unfamiliar with W10. I do a lot of disc swapping/authoring so it'd be bloody annoying not to have them auto-load Many thanks, NR