Mondrayy

Hello I'm in the middle of doing SSD cloning (data migration) from DRAM-less SSD to Samsung EVO 870. I am using Samsung's Magician software. During Data Migration it got to about 96+% and when I came back to the PC it had some error occur. Trying again didn't start the process again. Before I started I checked the drive's SMART statuses and nothing looked bad but right now SMART ID 195 "ECC Error Rate" is at critical state. Is there a way to safely do the data migration or is the old SSD dead and I have to reinstall Windows and all the programs? Can I be sure which data I can safely copy over from the old SSD?

Hey all I need some advice on which GPU model to get into Silverstone SG13 case. I'm currently running Gigabyte 2060 Super Windforce OC that seems to be on it's way to death. Why I think so is that it's been like this since the beginning but it hits 110C hotspot temps quite fast and even after repasting with Noctua's paste nothing changed so think it's just shitty Gigabyte quality (can't go over 100W, average is more like 85W). So I'm looking for a 3060 Ti as an upgrade from used market. As my 2060S is my first card then I don't have much experience with different cards at all. What do I want? It must have zero fan mode for light usage times and I do not want to look at Gigabyte products anymore. My current options based on size restrictions are Asus Dual Mini, Evga XC and Zotac Twin, other suggestions are welcome. The question is that which card would you expect to have the best cooling solution? I tried to squeeze in Asus Dual card and do some sidepanel modding but it just refused to go in. Other specs that might matter- Arctic Liquid Freezer II 120mm AIO on Ryzen 3600 and SFX Seasonic PSU with fan active for exhaust. 1440p 21:9 panel but not high refresh rate so I'm capping frames to have lower temps and noise. I do not play FPS or shooter games so 60 fps target is fine just fine.

Today only file server but not sure about future tho upgrades can happen when demands rise. Is Athlon 3000 on Zen? Not up to date with so low end CPUs

Hey everyone I've finally decided to build myself NAS and after some research I decided to go with unraid for simplicty when adding new drives and expanding. My parts list is here https://pcpartpicker.com/list/99wLQq : - R3 3200G - Whatever cheapest mITX mobo I can find - 8 GB of RAM - Seagate Ironwolf Pro 6TB (3x now but eventually I'll max the case out so that's why Pros and not normal) - Silverstone CS380B - SFX PSU from reputable brand Do I need HBA or something like that as well? I'm not convinced plugging drives into mobo is the best idea for some reason. Second question is do I need CPU with on-board graphics or can I save some money there? Third question would be is Ryzen even good choise? I really don't want to deal with any troubleshooting/down-time as I use it also semi-professionally so Intel maybe for that reason? Any other suggestions are welcome as well Best Mondrayy

Thanks for so specific recommendation, I'll look some reviews for it and price already seems much better than Corsair. Will probably give it a go. Sidequestion: how did you find hinnavaatlus when it says you're from San Fran?

Estonia, we have some local stuff but not many international tech stores. I've ordered from Germany's Amazon PC parts before and that has been fine (before the pandemic).

The pitch or type of sound ML120 makes is fine, it's just loud under load. I mean I shouldn't be able to hear my PC from 3 meters away when it's at sleep or it should be barely audible (I already have bad ears so it shouldn't be that hard, lol) at low load situations (watching YouTube or something like that). While writing this reply I have opened Chrome (with 15 tabs), Task Manager and iCUE and CPU is sitting at about 50-55C and ML120 being around 1400-1600rpm or a bit higher. PSU is Seasonic Focus GX 650W with fan down and always on. I tried flipping CPU fan but didn't notice too much difference. When I get what I want I'm willing to go and get H80i but I don't have that $100 burning hole in my pocket so that's why I'm here to know whether to get it or not. I'm in Europe and my local PC store is out of H80i but some e-stores have it. Noctua is not miracle, small cooler means less cooling capability and having such small chassis makes that poor cooler sweat hard. I know my ML120 is not quiet but most definitely I can hear that small Noctua fan as well but less than ML120 for sure.

Under full load all I expect is being able to hit higher clocks without more noise than currently maxed ML120 makes. The noise I want to cut is idling and light use like Chrome + Word/Excel or something like that. I can understand that full load and quiet operation is not option but pushing quiet operation window higher (more load) than current Noctua can handle is.

Climbing fast and after a long Lightroom export (100% utilisation and real life load) it's hitting 86C and clocks it down to 4.0 GHz from 4.2 GHz boost. I've tried setting custom fan curve but it haven't seem to work out too well. When I take top with side panels off the noise level falls dramatically so noise is quite definitely caused by lack of cooling / airflow. If pumps are hit or miss then which brand delivers quietest pumps in general?

That's a good point to look out for fans more than pump. Then ideally get some BeQuiet fans on the rad? Those seem to be one of the quietest on the market next to some Noctuas. Good point, didn't notice that it's so much thicker and probably one fan will be the max that fits my case. My fans are set in BIOS to follow CPU temps on quiet profile (Asus mobo if it matters). On idle I'm usually around just below 50C but as soon as I do some light activities I hit between 55-60C and fans start to ramp up. Room temp is roughly 21C and idle CPU voltage is 1.31V. I would say that having it quite audible even at idle while sitting in a room but not using it is quite annoying in the long term. AIO pumps are also noisy? Tristerin above said he pretty much can't hear his AIO pumps... haven't had an AIO before so don't really know what noise levels to expect. It's my first PC as well so a lot of things to discover when hunting for quiet operation and not having too much space to have big case.

Hey I'm thinking about leaving air cooling and switching to AIO because 90% of the noise my PC makes is case and CPU cooling fan. I run R5 3600 and Noctua NH-L9 low profilce cooler in Silverstone SG13 case with Corsair ML120 Pro as intake fan. I know it's small case and I can't expect great performance or overclocking but I would like to get same performance with noise cut down. The question I have is which 120/140mm AIO should I get if being quiet is target number 1. I can see a lot of suggestions for Corsair H80i (but I would look for H60 as it has one fan which should mean less noise) but the noise level it shows in specs sheets (28.3 dBA) is much much higher then Cooler Master MasterLiquid Lite 120 (pump < 8 dBA and fan 6-20 dBA). Or should I be looking somewhere else? Should I not waste time/money and just get quieter case fan? Personally I don't think just switching front fan will make a difference as I'm cooler limited mostly which kicks temps up and fans become loud. Thanks for the suggestions. Mondrayy

Hey, I'm looking for a new 13" portable laptop for my gf but I'm struggling to find information whether 2019 HP Envy x360 13" model has Microsoft's Percision Drivers or not. Can't find any of those laptops in stores either to check myself. I could check Asus Zenbook 14" which does have Percision Drivers but for some reason I'm leaning towards Envy rather than Zenbook. If you have x360 of 2019, could you please check it for me? Getting as bad experience as Linus did with Spectre is not my goal and if doesn't have Percision Drivers Envy is out of question. If you have any other suggestions sub $1000 light laptop (not for gaming, don't care slightest about it) which is not either of those mentioned above then I'm open for suggestions. The only thing is that max is 14", she wants to carry it around. Thanks

Hey I'm not sure what happened after I joined PIA with my WiFi sharing solution but it stopped working instantly. WAS: ethernet cable ran into my Mac, I shared WiFi for my mobile devices from Mac because public WiFi is not secure at all and it all worked perfectly. NOW: downloaded PIA on Mac and iPhone, didn't change any settings from default and kaboom WiFi doesn't work anymore. I added my Mac's WiFi into trusted connections on phone so it wouldn't double VPN but that didn't help either. Now I'm kinda out of ideas as I'm not really at home with networking. Current PIA settings on Mac: Mace is off, everything else should be default. Any help to get it back working as it was would be super helpful. Thanks in advance Mondrayy

Well... I'll settle for VM probably if I don't get Wine working but I'd still like to get it running. And if I fail to get VM then I'll get Boot Camp. I'm the guy who opens up crap ton of stuff and I really don't want to always close everything and reboot to different system. As for getting similar quality PC... that doesn't exist. To get good display, good battery life, good trackpad, good IO and relatively slim design for 1300€.... there is no such machine and I'm already in Apple ecosystem. Why I want to use Wine is because that professor uses his Mac for everything and it works. I would probably avoid Windows on my Mac completely.

Hey I'm trying to get Wine on my Mac (MBP 2015) to run some engineering programs that are only available for Windows. I got that idea from my professor at university but he's too busy to individually teach us and said that we need to figure it out on ourselves if we want to run it using Mac. I've downloaded Wine Stable from WineHQ, also XQuartz latest version and my program that I want to run (THERM, also latest version. I'm aware it's not on supported list but he insists it works as he runs it using Wine). Last night I got somehow THERM installer to run and it installed the program somewhere. Then I tried to launch it to not do anything. Then I thought maybe I should just wipe everything and start over but now I don't even get THERM installer to show up. Maybe I didn't wipe it last night? I also don't know how to test it as I don't know where it might have installed my program. I really would like to get Wine running and not bother with VM or Boot Camp as they require Windows install and eat up more RAM. Also, please don't suggest getting PC or come with suggestion not to game on Mac, I'm not going to do that. I just want to use my Mac the best possible way until I build PC in the future. I know I'm rare case but maybe we have someone here who knows what the issue might be. Thanks in advance Mondrayy