thedangerine

I would try to make the sound happen again and see if you can tell which fan it might be, then remove the fan and see if it continues. High pitched noises could just be coil wine, but for the fan its possible that may the lubricant on the bearings is a little dry, or if the fan has any damage to the blades it may be wobbling at higher speeds and causing some parts of it to impact another creating the sound. Would definitely try to pinpoint where the sound is coming from

probably not, I know someone who had the og iPhone X for like 4 years and never saw any burn in. I think with phones its less likely because the screen changes frequently enough 

probably not, I know someone who had the og iPhone X for like 4 years and never saw any burn in. I think with phones its less likely because the screen changes frequently enough 

It really does feel like the update is mainly for laptops and touch screen devices. I very likely won't put it on my desktop right away so guess my laptop is going to be the guinea pig for windows 11

My best guess is that you probably would be able to update to windows 11 from 10 even without it being activated but it would have the same drawbacks as unactivated windows 10. Also if you ever see or manage to come across an old tower that is broken or being recycled check for a product key. Every windows 7 key I have tried from a bunch of old Dell Optiplexes I got from a surplus center (they are from around 2012ish) has worked for activating and installing windows 10 so that could be a sneaky way to get a legit key for free if you ever see someone tossing one or find a nearby school or business getting rid of them

My best guess is that you probably would be able to update to windows 11 from 10 even without it being activated but it would have the same drawbacks as unactivated windows 10. Also if you ever see or manage to come across an old tower that is broken or being recycled check for a product key. Every windows 7 key I have tried from a bunch of old Dell Optiplexes I got from a surplus center (they are from around 2012ish) has worked for activating and installing windows 10 so that could be a sneaky way to get a legit key for free if you ever see someone tossing one or find a nearby school or business getting rid of them

I would try clearing your cmos and see if that helps. There might be a button on your rear i/o for that but if there isn't removing the battery on the board for about 15-20 seconds when the system is unplugged will clear the cmos

I would try clearing your cmos and see if that helps. There might be a button on your rear i/o for that but if there isn't removing the battery on the board for about 15-20 seconds when the system is unplugged will clear the cmos

I'd check the motherboard manual to see what that light is for, typically that will tell you at the least vaguely what the issue is

I mean VRM is a big thing for a high end cpu but something like the MSI B550 tomahawk's VRM can likely handle any cpu you could throw at it

You may not have the paper invoice on hand but if you have an account on the website you bought it from the invoices are sometimes saved in your purchase history for download. That's the case for Newegg at least. I've had to do this myself a couple times over the years.

Are you familiar with how or why Windows started misbehaving in the first place? Drives can enter a write protected state when they're failing. The drive may be dying.

LGA 115X has the same mounting across the board, the stock cooler for the 3570 is identical to the cooler for the 9600.
 
but this is true, cheap A520 board with a VRM heat sink and a Ryzen 5 3600 is the better move.

I would try running every driver update you can find on your motherboards support page, as well as any bios updates for it

Only things I would change were your SSD and Ram, you can get faster memory at that price that still looks good, and by not paying extra for the features you likely wouldn't need on a samsung nvme drive you could bump up your gpu to a 1660Ti which would see a greater increase in performance.
You still have a solid build that will be great, this list is how I would have done it
PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor $304.99 @ Amazon Motherboard MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard $179.99 @ Amazon Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory $61.99 @ Amazon Storage ADATA XPG SX6000 Pro 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $59.99 @ Amazon Video Card MSI GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card $249.49 @ Newegg Case Corsair 275R Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case $79.98 @ Amazon Power Supply SeaSonic S12III 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply $64.99 @ Best Buy Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit $108.78 @ Other World Computing   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total (before mail-in rebates) $1130.20   Mail-in rebates -$20.00   Total $1110.20   Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-01 17:04 EST-0500    

That CPU and GPU combo is a bit of a mismatch, in my opinion. If you're planning on getting a less powerful GPU now and upgrading later, that's fine, but if you were building a new system (and not planning on upgrading soon) I'd switch some things around. Most games these days are more GPU-intensive, so I'd drop down to a Ryzen 5 3600 and step up to a 2060 (about a 30% performance bump). Also, ditch that PSU. It might be branded Seasonic, but it's actually a unit contracted out to RSY, and it's better fit as a paperweight than anything else. Go with something like this or this. Your current storage config is fine, but Samsung SSDs aren't always the best value. You should also grab a 1-2TB HDD for large games and other infrequently accessed files. 
 
Final note, don't pay full retail for a copy of Windows 10. Grab a $30 key from G2A or Kinguin.

And it's better. Corsair's RAM kits are overpriced. More expensive =/= better. 

I would put all your games on a 1 or 2TB SSD.  NVMe or SATA doesn't matter really for now (real world gaming speeds are negligible).  Realistically, unless you're a hoarder you don't need more than 2TB for all the games you actually play in a 3-6 month cycle, and with as fast as internet is these days, you can always re-download anything you want to get back into.
 
I mean nothing wrong with how you have it now, but if you want a bit faster load times then I'd get them all on SSD.

Honestly when it comes to games loading off an ssd will be a lot faster, but what kind of SSD you are on doesn't matter too much. I have played games off NVMe and sata ssd's and can't tell the difference at all in load times, if anything it would probably be a few seconds at most. I used to buy sata ssd's a lot because they were cheaper and all I really wanted was decent load times and a reliable drive, now I lean more towards NVMe now that cost are going down plus no cables is always nice too

Welcome to the forums!!!
 
Have you enabled DOCP for RAM or have done any overclocking? I'd suggest removing any overclocks and try again at stock settings. Also, have you cleared CMOS? 

Apparently it's "used to interface with classic Mobee EEG ambulatory headbox" which looks to be some kind of medical equipment.

"these kinds of fluctuations are normal, it's not something you'd ever feel"
 
>overwatch players have entered the chat
 
 
tho tbf, i'm in the mind that anything over 144hz is useless and all this low latency stuff is not going to help 99.9% of people playing, but the fact it gets so heavily marketed means people cry over the slightest thing. so i guess the marketing is working if they buy a new x or y cus they think an increase of 0.001 in some number is holding them back lmao

Not really, obviously that is mad overkill, but getting something a little bit better than what you need  or "overkill" for your current needs but within reason isn't a bad thing. I got a 750w 80+ gold PSU that had really good reviews from places like jonnyguru.com and other sites for a system that would maybe draw 300 watts under load, then I got my 1080 and started adding more drives and got a better cpu. Now with 30 series cards drawing near 350 watts under load I am glad I did

That is very fresh