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thedangerine

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Everything posted by thedangerine

  1. tbh they will all likely be fine, the 980 pro uses MLC flash which does have higher write endurance but thermally is probably no different. As far as the NAND flash being MLC or TLC you probably won't be able to tell the difference, TLC will still take a really long time to wear out like 95% of people do not need an MLC drive. I do use some smaller MLC drives myself but only in my server as a write cache as they have data written to them and moved off constantly
  2. probably not, I know someone who had the og iPhone X for like 4 years and never saw any burn in. I think with phones its less likely because the screen changes frequently enough
  3. I always go for the best performing processor I can because typically it is the last thing you will upgrade in your rig and spending a little extra now may allow you to keep that same cpu/mobo/ram for an extra couple years
  4. My best guess is that you probably would be able to update to windows 11 from 10 even without it being activated but it would have the same drawbacks as unactivated windows 10. Also if you ever see or manage to come across an old tower that is broken or being recycled check for a product key. Every windows 7 key I have tried from a bunch of old Dell Optiplexes I got from a surplus center (they are from around 2012ish) has worked for activating and installing windows 10 so that could be a sneaky way to get a legit key for free if you ever see someone tossing one or find a nearby school or business getting rid of them
  5. It really does feel like the update is mainly for laptops and touch screen devices. I very likely won't put it on my desktop right away so guess my laptop is going to be the guinea pig for windows 11
  6. Really depends on what you want more. The gigabyte board has at least two more usb ports than the others, the MSI board probably has the best VRM of the three thought that doesn't matter a ton since you won't be able to overclock anyway. I would just think more of what connectors or ports you want more of and base your decision on that or if there is a brands bios you prefer or something like that
  7. You should be able to add another fan fairly easily with the same kind of wires that hold the one it comes with on. I can't remember for sure but it might even come with the wires to add the extra fan in the box
  8. I would try clearing your cmos and see if that helps. There might be a button on your rear i/o for that but if there isn't removing the battery on the board for about 15-20 seconds when the system is unplugged will clear the cmos
  9. I didn't even think about that, it still has a north bridge so that makes sense. My question seems kinda dumb now lol, thank you
  10. Does anyone know if the Q6600 supports ECC Memory? I recently got an Asus P5W board which says it supports ECC DDR2 which I already have some of, but Intel ARK doesn't say if the Q6600 has ECC support or not This is the list of supported CPU's for the board: https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/P5W_DH_Deluxe/HelpDesk_CPU/
  11. So I recently got Star Wars Squadrons and have found it to be the game I didn't realize how bad I wanted. Anyway anyone have any recommendations for flight sticks and throttles, the keyboard and mouse controls are good, but a flight stick and throttle would really make the game, plus if I ever get Microsoft flight sim I could use them for that as well
  12. I mean just don't leave it plugged in well past it being full charged, if you charge at a higher wattage than what it came with it will degrade the battery faster, but it also charges faster, as always there is a trade off
  13. thedangerine

    Sound Cards

    I got a dac from Schiit audio and it made a huge difference in audio quality, personally I would recommend going with something external like that over an internal sound card as you will avoid a lot of electrical noise. idk how much that actually matters to have it outside, but the Electrical Engineer in me thinks that having an external dac will sound a lot better than a sound card for that reason, though I have never done any extensive testing with something like an oscilloscope to see how much that really matters
  14. I'd check the motherboard manual to see what that light is for, typically that will tell you at the least vaguely what the issue is
  15. I mean VRM is a big thing for a high end cpu but something like the MSI B550 tomahawk's VRM can likely handle any cpu you could throw at it
  16. I would check to see if there are any driver or windows updates. If that doesn't do it then I would make sure there isn't something in your router settings that might potentially limit speed to that specific device
  17. It is an ADATA XPG SX6000 that is technically under warranty still but I don't have an invoice to prove my purchase from an authorized reseller. Probably going to try and see if they can just do it anyway, or see if I can figure out a way to get an invoice
  18. I don't think it is under warranty, it's not a huge deal as I have plenty of other drives, it's just annoying because I can't get it to work and I am not seeing anything that would explain why unless it really just is that the drive itself is messed up in an unfixable way
  19. That's the weird part is it doesn't give an error it just says it did it but then when I try to reformat it says it is write protected again
  20. Yeah I went into cmd and then diskpart and tried selecting the disk then clean, as well as attributes disk clear readonly, and reformatting the specific volumes in diskpart
  21. I thought at first the drive may be dying but when I run a smart status check on the drive it passes so I figured my install just got messed up, I have no idea what made it start acting this way
  22. I have a drive that had windows on it that got bjorked somehow. It boots to the thing that list troubleshooting options like reset this pc, command prompt, etc. Nothing in there works at all including reset pc with or without files, so I tried hooking it up to another computer to wipe it and windows won't let me reformat it since it is write protected. I have tried just about every fix I can find online including clear disk attributes in diskpart, I also tried clearing the write protection in regedit and still no dice. Tried clearing the disk via a windows installer and that didn't work either. Any ideas of wack softwares out there that could help?
  23. I would make sure that your graphics driver is up to date, in theory water cooling shouldn't improve performance unless you were thermal throttling before or you overclock more now that you have the thermal headroom
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