shinegull

I thinking of converting a wooden cabinet into a unraid server case. Its a besta frame with doors, the glass door with wooden framing. Before getting starting, I'd like to know if this is a good idea at all. I'm planning on printing out drive bracket and psu brackets. I'll also be cutting out fan holes at the top and bottom and installing some 200mm fans. But I'm a bit worried about the structural integrity of the frame itself, since i think its basically made out out of fiberboard. 1. Should I put some plywood on the inside of the case? since I'll be putting screws and bolts into it when I mount the brackets. 2. Should I add some acoustic foam to help with sound leakage? I know that theres going to a hole in the top and bottom, but maybe I can direct the sound elsewhere? Theres also a bit of a gap between the doors, do i need to seal up those ares when the door is closed? 3. What kind of mesh should I get for the fan holes? 4. If I'm installing hard drives, do i need to decrease the vibration somehow? Basically, I'd like to know how deep a hole I'm digging myself into and what I need to consider as well as what kind of materials I should get before starting.

I've noticed something else. the print quality seems to sort of drop part way through the print. it would start printing out pretty well, then maybe 2 or 3 hrs in, the print quality completely gets thrown own. the filament strands becomes thin and sort of stringy. and it would start getting dragged around bends and corners. What do i need to do to fix that?

I added a BLtouch, releveled, and changes some settings, also turned the plate 180 degrees. it all seemed to help. thank you. I did have another issue come up about the nozzle heating but James evens is helping with that for now. Thank you

Alright, I"ve found it start g-code says ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G28G29 ; Home all axes G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish End G-code says G91 ;Relative positioning G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more G90 ;Absolute positioning G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z I have no idea what to add or change

how do i do that? I think i got the z offset part, might need to fine tune it later. but the nozzle heating im not sure how to get

I installed a Bltouch onto my Ender 3 V2, I did the paper leveling. had the printer run to auto home, then did the auto leveling. I decided to do a quick 20 min test print. I noticed 2 things, first the nozzle would not heat up automatically, I had to manually set the nozzle temp to 200. and second, when the filament started coming out, it would come out too high. as in what looks like a cm off the bed.

when you say first layer change to .32 and 10mm, which setting am i looking at? top/bottom thickness? am i setting the thickness to .32 and the layers to 10?

Could i have damage the , what seems like wiring or soldering, point near the rear left spring? When i was releveling the bed, yesterday, I dialed the entire bed down and felt a resistance there.

I'll try it with cura first then. I hope I didn't accidentally damage anything like the bed heating mechanism. its really close to the spring. (why would you put it so close to the spring?)

I use the creality slicer that came with the printer

The bed is made of glass (or what Im assuming is glass). How do I print a thicker layer? honestly, I tend to just print things I found off thingiverse, so I dont really play too much with the settings

When printing on my Ender 3 V2, the filament comes out a bit wierd. I'm using PLA with settings of Nozzle to 200 and Bed to 60. One side would print fine. thin sort of melty. but the other side of the bed would be stringy not quite melting. the left side would also seem like its not quite sticking properly. I have leveled and re-leved multiple times, cleaned with alcohol, soap, and even tried hairspray twice. hairspray actually seemed to make it worse.( ignore the strand cutting across, thats just me) but as you can see in the picture, its allways on the left that its like this. I've tried smaller prints, that centers more around the middle and that seems fine. Its like its not melting properly? The first time I printed this, it was fine. but then I've continually failed to print this. Please help. This is the last piece I need to print for this particular item.

You ever tried the Logitech G305? while not exactly the most lightweight. It's my go to mouse for well almost every PC setup. Even my sister uses it and she doesnt do any pc gaming at all, just for work. Heck, I take mine to work with me as well.

the alcohol and brim seems to have worked for now. also how often do i need to relevel the bed?

I am currently using a EufyCam system with a total of 1 Doorbell, 1 Backyard Cam and 1 Frontyard Cam, with 1 extra, to reduce camera downtime. I'm finding that sometimes, the cameras will not record in early morning sometimes when its cold-ish. Also sometimes, recording may not be a full recording, but a partial messy one with skipping a second here and there. the only upside was that it was wireless and lasted a couple months before i need to charge it. So I am considering a replacement security cam system, and looking for suggestions. I have considering wired options, and even considered putting together a more in house option, with pc for it. the things I would need the security cam system to provide is the ability to have more cameras than I have now, to maybe about a dozen cameras ( or cameras with a really wide range of view.) the ability to view it from both pc and mobile phones and notification alerts if there is someone incoming. It would also need to work year round, so as I live in Canada, I would expect it to function properly even in minus 0 (and lower temperatures), regardless of weather. I should also add that if its a wire option, i might need it to be a wall plug in option, we've got an old house, so not sure where (or how) to even pull a wire through the wall.

I'll consider the springs and any further upgrades later on, but ill try out that test leveling print. never even thought about that. always just did the a4 paper thing

i did the bed leveling with paper thing like 4 times just to be sure its an ender 3 v2, either it doesnt have the auto bed leveling, or im blind and an idiot. ( that is actually very possible. if it does have auto bed leveling, please tell me!)

hairspray... yea never touched that in my life. ill try the glue and hairspray if the brim doesnt work. out of curiosity, which is easier to clean? hairspray or glue.

got it, print with brim, clean with alcohol before every print

got it, ill try it on the next batch

ill try the brim thing first, at least until i can find stick of glue. ( im not even sure whens the last ive seen a stick of glue) for the brim, how do i remove it after?

any particular kind of glue? and do i just rub it on the glass before printing?

Was wondering what methods I could use if the corner of the print is lifting a little. I am printing on a glass bed, as thats what came with the printer.

Thanks, I guess i'll make a list or something

yea, "pro". In my case, it means have everything turn on and start automatically once pc is on, so i dont need to wait for things to load when when i open them. and dont wanna bother turning them off, cuz im lazy like that.