shinegull

On 1/2/2024 at 7:54 PM, TVwazhere said:

Glow in the dark is heavily abrasive due to the additives they have to put in to glow.

 

Moisture does affect print quality. Depending on where you live, your relative humidity could be very high (equator and surrounding sun belts) however 30-50% humidity has not shown to be an issue for my openly stored PLA or ABS. That said, drying your filament might help some or many of these issues. There's a couple of ways you can do this, but the simplest one is using your printer and the box it came in.

 

 

Yea, no kidding on the heavily abrasive part

I've been printing with normal white filament for maybe a week or 2 now. i have had a couple really bag prints in giant clusters and clumps. despite that, print has continued to move forward. filament change seems to have done the trick.

Thank you

3 hours ago, TVwazhere said:

What material is the nozzle (Brass, hardened steel, ruby, etc) and what filament are you printing with? Some are very abrasive to nozzles such as any glow in the dark variant or carbon fiber. 

Its whatever nozzle came with the printer. I kept with the creality nozzles still though

Didn't know glow in the dark affected it so much, since I went through a couple kg of that first before removing to white filament

It's all PLA or PLA+ though.

Recently I had an issue with my 3D printer. Today, I have a similar experience. Basically my printing kept failing.

Issues included but not limited to the following

- Print not sticking to board

- Print warping

- print clumping

- Filament is stringing

- Filament initial layer wall dragging

Following steps for trouble shooting was done

- Cleaning with soap

- Wipe down with alcohol

- Elmer Gluestick

- Re doing the levelling/calibration/z offset

- Redoing the design of the print

- Slowing down the print

Final last resort was switching out the nozzle and checking for clogs in the extruder, which ultimately resolved the issue

This is the second time I've had to replace the nozzle, as the first time I had an issue, the nozzle replacement fixed the issue.

I've had the printer for about a month

I've done an average of one print every day or 2. Print times range from 30 min to 12 H

Settings I generally customize (I don't think it should affect the route cause but who knows)

Infill percent (20 to 70)

Infill Type (Usually I use grid / honeycomb / cubic )

Build Plate adhesion is set to none

Support used is Tree slim touching build plate at 15%

On Occasion, I will use Enable Ironing

Printer used is an Ender 3 V3 SE

Please someone help me find out why my nozzle and only the nozzle is getting clogged enough that i should change it every couple weeks? Because that does not sound normal

On 12/13/2023 at 1:39 PM, Blue4130 said:

Either that, or get a new set of boxes. How far is the monitor from the computer and what resolution do you need?

a couple meters at least for best case scenario, worse case, might be 10 to 15 meters. all the monitors are on a wall which doesnt help.

for resolution, im expecting a minimun  of 1080p roughly

12 hours ago, Blue4130 said:

The transmitter. It looks basically the same as the receiver box. But they are a matched set. I doubt you will find a transmitter for sale alone.

So basically, this box is probably useless and I should just go the route of a really long HDMI cable for each monitor?

1 hour ago, Blue4130 said:

No, There are two parts to those boxes. A transmitter and a reciever. It seems like you only have one end. Simply put, All those things do are convert the hdmi to ethernet and then from ethernet back to hdmi. (they also do some compression to make it possible to send video at a reasonable rate)

 

So the layout of these things is...

TV -> hdmi cable -> reciever box-> ethernet cable -> transmitter box -> hdmi cable -> computer or other video source

 

I am confused by your use of station. What do you mean by that?

sorry, work term. station, i mean just desktop or laptop.

that aside, .... I am missing a transmitter box then? any suggestions on what im actually looking for?

4 hours ago, Blue4130 said:

Single station meaning workstation/pc? You would need 8 outputs which means multiple video cards or a specialized card like a matrox M9188 (8 outputs)

while i was hoping for one station.... I did expect either multiple gpus or stations.

however.. the issue isnt so much as the number of stations but rather how its currently set up.

This was a setup left over by the previous tenant.. so all the monitors are wall attached. id like to avoid removing them from the wall if possible.

every single monitor is (im assuming) connect with hdmi to one of these muxlab boxes. with eat one having a ethernet cable coming out of it. all these cables are then routed through the ceiling into the a corner of the room. (again, im assuming, since these cables are labelled monitor 1, monitor 2, etc)

so with these ethernet cables, how do i connect it to a computer for viewing? just any ethernet port?

We have 8 monitors that are connected so a Muxlab Prodigital HDMI/Bi-IR Extender Receiver ( Display side)

the ways its set up right now is each monitor is connected through HDMI to one of these boxes, which then has a lan cable connected to it. 

I've never actually actually encountered these things before and not sure how it works.

Specifically, assuming i have nothing else, how would i connect these to a single station?

20 hours ago, Yua said:

Oh, something popped into my head. When you get the printer, it comes disassembled, right?

Make sure that the two posts have a 90-degree angle on them in reference to the body. Maybe use a square as you tighten the screws from the buttom.

 

 

nozzle worked. printing was 99 % good. ty for the troubleshooting steps

1 hour ago, Yua said:

Oh, something popped into my head. When you get the printer, it comes disassembled, right?

Make sure that the two posts have a 90-degree angle on them in reference to the body. Maybe use a square as you tighten the screws from the buttom.

 

 

dont have a proper right angle ready. but i did check the bolts underneath. its 3 small bolts per side

they were a tad loose.

However, printing still failed. and then i changed the nozzle and simpler print design.

i was a bit worried since the first try still failed, though it failed less? there was parts that showed that it was improving.

so cleaned again. glue stick on. and print is 99% good so far on the first layer. there was a bit of stringing on the first corner. but i am satifisfied. ive got about 45 minutes till print end, so fingers crossed.

if it works, im gonna keep a small supply of nozzle heads

2 hours ago, Yua said:

No. Its not normal. If you are losing bed leveling every time, it means there is something loose on the machine.

Grab a side of the bed with your hand and move it up and down to try and feel if there is any play.

Make sure to start the auto-leveling when the nozzle and bed are close to the temperature you are planning to print.

 

When it does the auto-leveling, does it show the height differences of the grid in mm on the screen?

All the values should be below 1 mm.

 

I don't have that same model, but the principles are the same as for any other 3D printer. its just that I can't give you specific instructions.

bed leveling stays mostly the same every time. its not exact, but generally within .1 change

and... the blobbing,clumping and stringing is back.

just in case, cleaned the plate. put glue on (thats why the bed looks like that) did the leveling, did the calibration  then print

leveling and calibration is done with a heated bed.

as its printing, it kinda looks like the filament is dragging?

should i try changing the nozzle next?

not only that, when the initial layer goes decently well, eventually it gets to the point, where struts start stringing. (sorry, dont have a picture, but it looks like an upside down christmas tree drawing)

On 12/4/2023 at 11:32 PM, Yua said:

Temps seem normal. Can you try printing at 215 °C and see what happens?  Also, do you have clearer pictures of the print? This were a little blurry.

It looks like sometimes the nozzle height is good and other times its too far away.

 

The auto-level tool is only as good as the initial calibration.

check out this step guide: https://wiki.utd.ms/3d-printing/zoffset

 

Also, a reminder to print in a room that's not your main studio or bedroom unless it's well ventilated. 3D printers create very fine microplastics that can be harmful to your health in the long run.

ender 3 se has an autolevel function and auto z-offset and an optional calibration before print.

Do i need to redo the level before every print?

I almost always do the calibration before a print but still get the first layer being visibly less than perfect and kinda rough

17 hours ago, Yua said:

Temps seem normal. Can you try printing at 215 °C and see what happens?  Also, do you have clearer pictures of the print? This were a little blurry.

It looks like sometimes the nozzle height is good and other times its too far away.

 

The auto-level tool is only as good as the initial calibration.

check out this step guide: https://wiki.utd.ms/3d-printing/zoffset

 

Also, a reminder to print in a room that's not your main studio or bedroom unless it's well ventilated. 3D printers create very fine microplastics that can be harmful to your health in the long run.

increase the heat, didnt help as much

8 hours ago, FlyingPotato_is_taken said:

Check your bed levelling (nozzle distance is probably too large).

cleaned. then re did the leveling and offset

notable improvement.

Its not perfect. but it is a lot better than before.

i did keep the increase in heat though, so not sure if that also had a difference

8 minutes ago, Yua said:

Hmm, what material are you printing with (including brand)? What are your set temperatures?

 

Has the room in which you have been printing gotten colder due to the winter?

I think my room is pretty warm. Since my my pc is also running in the same room, and im wearing a t-shirt.

Material is PLA from overture. Temp is 205, bed plate 60

I completed a 6 pc build a couple days with minimal issue. initial layer had some trouble with the circle, at the time. I slowed the print down, for the first layer, and then ramped it back up to normal after

but generally, even if i didnt, the circle would just have a couple string inside, that was easy to clear out

I got a Ender 3 V3 SE about 1 week and half ago, and it was going really well.... until today, I started having issues where its been clumping.

I tried cleaning thoroughly, with alcohol.

redid the auto level

did the calibration thing before the print.

slowed down the initial layer to roughly 10 to 20 mm speed

i noticed the clumping was getting worse and worse everytime i try.

stringing seems to be geting worse as well

Print seems to be dragging as well

I'm wondering if there are any free options or sites where I can build a personal search engine for our team. 

Every 12 to 24 hours, our team creates a series of files that has a location that is attached to a second location.

What i am looking for is a way for the other teams to be able to access a site, where they can type in location 1, which will then give them an answer for location 2. if possible it will even give them location 2 of the last couple days as well.

I would like to be able to upload changes as needed. as the data can change at any time. so the ability to add changes mid operation would be beneficial.

a plus would be the ability to add pictures and files for shared viewing as well but this would be optional.

The reason i am looking at browser based is because many of our team is moving around and will usually only have access to a phone.

On 8/10/2022 at 11:41 AM, lol old teck guy said:

how long do you plan on holding the data? Most SSD's have lifespans of a decade, but may last longer if you are not actively writing or reading data to the drive (NAND flash cell has limited cycles). Here's a website to hopefully help you: SSD Lifespan: How Long Will Your SSD Work? | Enterprise Storage Forum

however long it can hold it? maybe a decade or so? I intend to write a file to that drive once then just keep it there. until i need to replace the drive, by which point, it will a drive with a larger amount of space on it. since unraid maxes out at about 30 drives per array, i think, with 2 tb drives, ill get about 50 to 60 tb. that should last me for a bout 5 to 10 years at the rate im going. maybe longer

im looking at this based on what im seeing on pcpartpicker, I'm probably looking at about $125 per tb. give or take a bit

just wondering if i could go a bit lower in cost by using something from this list. after that its crucial or samsung as other options, but they cost a bit more per tb. not much at first, but it will add up after a dozen drives...

18 hours ago, Electronics Wizardy said:

Is there a reason why your getting ssds here? HDDs seem to make much more sense for this use case. 

 

The big brands will likely be more reliable, if its worth it depends on how much redundancy and backups you have. Id probably spend slightly more on the name brand normally.

I tried the hdd route. but this it just a home nas with unraid. so it will be in the room. Noise was bearable at the beginning, but when you start adding a couple more drives, noise starts to increase. ssd in comparison is basically silent. so noise was one issue i took into consideration for ssd over hdd

rather than backup, its more of a file server dumping ground for me. I'd like to keep the file, but i dont need constant access to it. hence the periodic access every couple months. I wuold turn it on as needed, move files over, check a couple things, then shut it down. up time is usually a couple days long at once at most

7 hours ago, wseaton said:

Intel Data Center grade SSDs if you want the drives to survive a nuclear war or asteroid collision. Not as cheap as the consumer stuff, but Armageddon proof.

 

Spinners are fine for just hording stuff long term.

I... don't think i need it to last an armeggadon....thats why i was looking at something more consumer grade. so long as the file is there in case i need to acces it, then its fine. in theory, its write a file once, and i probably wont delete or move for a long time

I'm looking to get a bunch of SSDs for my NAS, as my drives are starting to fill up again. For use case, I will be dumping several TB of data onto the drives maybe 2 or 3 times year. I dont need to access the file much afterwards  except maybe every couple months. Not much will be deleted. so I'm assuming I wont be moving a file once its on the drive until half a decade later

Would it be better if I went for something like samsung or crucial or something more well known or should i go for something like silicon power or PNY.  I'll be aiming mostly to get 2 to 4 tb per drive right now. I'm mostly taking a glance at the drives shown from ca.partpicker.

On 1/18/2022 at 2:28 PM, Jrasero said:

Used to have an EVGA RTX 3080 XC3 Ultra but now have a ASUS TUF Radeon 6800 XT and if prices were the same, heck even normalized I would say the RTX 3080.  If upscaling and ray tracing matters to you than the RTX 3080 is a no brainer.  Also Nvidia's encoder and software suite are nice bonuses.  Really the Radeon 6800 XT is a really nice plan B card.  Yes it's a slightly better 1440P card but worse at 4k.  Unless you can make use of the 16GB of memory, or can find a Radeon 6800 XT for substantially cheaper than a RTX 3080, the RTX 3080 is a clear 1A option.  With this said I don't dislike my Radeon 6800 XT but it's like getting Burger King when you wanted McDonalds.

i actually picked up a 3080 last year since it was available for close to msrp but thanks

Just now, shinegull said:

I've also noticed another sound, similar to a ticking sound

please. sound is almost making me want to undo the entire loop, replace the pump

I've also noticed another sound, similar to a ticking sound

20 minutes ago, shinegull said:

I woke, up pump running at 100 %, sound was gone. I dropped the pump rpm to about 40%. sound came back full blast. it sound like a fan blade is hitting a cable except fans arent running

the sound disappears if i tilt the entire pc 45% forward. but since i cant leave it like that....

11 hours ago, keskparane said:

I wouldn't worry. Pretty sure there's no way you need to run the pump at 100%. I've got a D5 and only need to run it at 40%

 

I just tune mine by noise. Find a nice spot that's as fast as you can get it before it makes much noise. Give that a try and see how your temps go. I recommend Argus Monitor for a nice piece of software for tuning so you can ramp them up if need be if the temps rise too high occasionally.

I woke, up pump running at 100 %, sound was gone. I dropped the pump rpm to about 40%. sound came back full blast. it sound like a fan blade is hitting a cable except fans arent running

I've just finished a new hardline loop, and putting it through the 24 hour test. I've set the pump to run at 100% for now, planning to lower it to less later. So far, Im about an hour 20 minutes in, and I'm still getting some sort of sound. the sound is somewhat quiet.  but its somewhat similar to an old spinning mechanical hard drive or a cable hitting a fan blade. not quite grinding, and not quite rattling. sort of like a crackling. it started out fairly consistent. I thought it was air bubbles, so tilted the pc every way i could. its a o11 mini ekwb distro plate with a  d5 pump. the tilting helped most of it. but there still some remaining. Sound is very faint in video.

Any idea what it is, and what could help? Also, what percent of rpm should i set pump to?