AndrewReaganM

Assuming you are okay with losing all data on the disk, in my experience the best thing to do is to boot to the Windows 10 installer and delete all the partitions from in there. Then you can let Windows automatically create all of the partitions. Hope that helps!

Haha no worries! Glad you figured it out!

First, make sure you are plugged into your router/switch correctly, then try the built in Windows troubleshooting tool by right clicking on the network icon in the system tray and finding that feature (I can't remember where it is off the top of my head). If that does not work, try your best to install the network drivers. and run the troubleshooting again. Your computer does not seem to be getting the correct IP settings from the DHCP server on your router.

See what happens when you type in "ping 8.8.8.8" in the command prompt. This is Google's DNS server, and I want you to try this so that we can see if DNS is your issue. Report back with the results of this, and I think we can get you going.

Keep in mind that port forwarding works by forwarding whatever port you select from your external IP, to the internal IP that you specify. It looks like this: Internet Client (Friend's PC) -> Your External IP at Port 25565 (Your Router) -> Internal IP at Port 25565 (Your Computer) The red arrow is where the port forwarding happens, as all ports inbound are blocked by default. You are essentially opening a window for your friend's computer to access yours, but only at that port. Long story short, just make sure you are forwarding port 25565 from your external IP to port 25565 at your computer's internal IP. Also if Windows firewall is enabled, it will block this by default. Disable Windows firewall for the sake of testing, and if it works then go ahead and re-enable it, but set a rule to allow port 25565. Good luck!

I purcased a TP link cable modem recently, and have been using it without a hitch on my 100 down 10 up connection. https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-DOCSIS-Certified-XFINITY-TC-7610-E/dp/B01CH8ZNJ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502124386&sr=1-1&keywords=tp+link+cable+modem Keep in mind that with this or the CM600 you still need a routing solution, but it looks like you already know that!

Go to the command prompt and type in "ipconfig" without the quotes, and see if your computer is getting an IP address from your router. If you want to, go ahead and screenshot or copy and paste the info from that into this thread so that we can look at it and see what is going wrong. Good luck!

While I do not have experience with the router you posted, I can vouch that Linksys makes pretty good networking gear. The UniFi AP's are fantastic. I have been running one in my parents house for probably about 4 years now, and I have had exactly zero issues with it. I recently moved into my own place and installed one for myself - it has been fantastic so far. Another option for a router is PFSense on some old hardware, however power usage is going to be much higher with that, and you would end up spending $35 to $40 on a dual port nic. Unless you really want to set up PFSense for fun, I would just stick with the TP-Link router that you have selected already. Good luck!

One solution to this is to set up a PFSense box and run 4 VLANs, one for each of the tenants and one for management of the network hardware (VLAN 0). You could then daisy chain managed switches (not ideal but works fine), one on each floor, and configure all but the ports required to daisy chain to that floor's VLAN. Then the ones that are used to daisy chain would be set up to trunk all of the traffic back to the interface of the PFSense box. After all of that is done, you could use any number of UniFi access points to tie a particular wireless SSID to a VLAN, so that each tenant has a WiFi connection to only their VLAN. These access points would also be on ports set for trunking. The final step would be to set up traffic shaping in PFSense to throttle each connection to a third of the connection to the ISP. The downside to this solution is that none of this really works on consumer grade hardware. You would need managed switches, which can be pricey at times. The UniFi access points aren't too expensive though, and the PFSense box can be run on pretty basic hardware, just make sure you have a decent dual port gigabit NIC in it. Also, all of this is assuming that you are comfortable enough with network gear to set all of this up... Let me know if you have any questions about what I said!

I recently put all of my networking and home theater gear into a small closet thinking that I would not be an issue, however I woke up the next morning with the CPU fan on my Xeon based Dell workstation machine running PFSense running at full speed. Keep in mind this was at what was likely a peak 5% CPU load, and everything else in the closet was turned completely off except for my cable modem and 5 port switch. I am going to end up installing either a passive vent or a vent with some 120mm or 140mm fans attached. The passive vent should work fine though, as long as you install it towards the top of the door so that when the heat rises, it comes out of the top. Seeing as you are running a gaming rig, that closet is going to get very hot very fast, even under very low load. Install a vent, however, and you will likely be okay.

I love my U2412M's. I bought one, then I bought two more beacuse I like them so much. Great colors and a backlight that, while at 100%, looks a lot like the surface of the sun. My first one is over 2 years old and the other two are about a year old. The stands are great as well.

If you ever visit any enterprise Datacenter, they usually backup nightly to tapes, and have them taken to safe places, like vaults, usually in armored vehicles if I recall correctly. It is a great tool for long term backups.

Talk about some extremists. Holy crap. I've been using Windows 8 since beta and just updated to 8.1. Only issue I have had is LucidLogix VirtuMVP likes to display a black screen. Just uninstalled it because I wasn't using it anyways. I have not modified any start menu/boot settings and am loving ModernUI. As for doing "Work" on Windows 8 I've done some pretty epic 18 hour editing marathons in Premiere Pro CC without dying, so that's cool. Multitasking is a snap... Literally. On my three monitors: M1:Foobar/Chrome M2: Premiere Pro or After Effects M3: Windows Explorer / Windows Explorer. How is that not an optimal multitasking setup for editing? I'm not trying to sell it to you, I'm just trying to let people see that it's okay for people to use Windows 8, and that it doesn't mean that they are not an enthusiast because they use it. Regarding companies not using Windows 8: Most don't want to shell out the money to stay current with OS upgrades. Remember how long Windows 7 was out before everyone in the enterprise switched from XP to 7? Simple fact: they wait. In no way am I saying that they will go to Windows 8, but I thought the same thing with 7. </Rant>

Going out for a RIP are ya bud?

http://gifsound.com/?gif=fc00.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2014/017/9/5/slickbananaphonetips_by_otakumma-d72mxw3.gif&v=F-glHAzXi_M&s=31

In the average US home, you will have a 15 to 20 amp breaker per circuit. Usually (depending on your local building code of course) an entire room is ran off of one breaker (like mine), but since you're in an attic, it is probably seperate, or tied to something like your doorbell power, etc. To give you an idea I regularly run off of a 20A breaker with:(i7 3770K, GTX 670, three Dell U2412M, an older business grade Dell Pentium D Machine[a server], Yamaha RX-V675 amp, Polk Audio 10" Subwoofer, ~2011 42" Panasonic Plasma TV, ceiling fan/light, closet light, PS3, and laptop) all on at once. You should be fine. btw don't sue me. Origin of Knowledge: My dad is a certified electrician and has been for ~30 years, so I've picked up a few things on the way. -Andrew EDIT: Homes in the United States are 120v @ 60Hz

This is my life. Friendzoned with every single girl in my school. I need to make an excel spreadsheet to keep up with it better.

Just gonna leave this here... .gif Credits go to nWinn! http://gifsound.com/?gif=fc00.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2014/017/9/5/slickbananaphonetips_by_otakumma-d72mxw3.gif&v=F-glHAzXi_M&s=31

I am helping a friend build his first computer. I am very well versed in building PC's, but would like to have a second opinion about the compatibility of these parts with each other. Notes for people who don't know the person I am building this for: He is not an enthusiast, and as far as I can tell, has no such desire to be one. Therefore, we must think differently. Case: Apevia X-Cruiser (Makes me cringe but he likes the way it looks) CPU: Intel Core i5-4570 MoBo: MSI Z87M GAMING LGA 1150 Intel Z87 GPU: GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 770 4GB PSU: CORSAIR TX650 650W RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1600MHz HDD: Western Digital WD Black 1TB 7200RPM 1. Budget & Location Budget: $1,100 - $1,200 Location: Oklahoma, USA 2. Aim His main goal is to run Battlefield 4... Not very descriptive right? So I told him he wants to run Battlefield 4 at at least 50 FPS on a 1920x1080 on high settings. 3. Monitors He said he would like to have 2 or 3 monitors at some point. (We can assume 1920x1080) 4. Peripherals No peripherals are needed and a copy of Windows is not needed at the time of building. 5. Why are you upgrading? Because he has a 4 year old HP laptop (some ancient Celeron with 3GB ram) that can't really run Minecraft at any stable frame-rate. Thanks, Andrew.

If there is a way to disable the firewall on the modem, I would do that. (Basically forward all ports from modem to router). I feel like I am missing a fundamental part of the story though.

That could potentially be a problem. It's worth a try.

Has it ever worked before? or is this a fairly new install of WHS? If the latter, i would recommend maybe a fresh install as more than likely something got very messed up during the install. I wish someone else more knowledgable would chip in here. At this point I would start checking video drivers to see if they are doing something peculiar. I would also see if there are any weird BIOS settings regarding network connections with no monitor, but honestly I'm at a loss here. Also, do you have a keyboard and/or mouse plugged in? I know I had issues with that when I first went headless (My Dell tower went insane, lol) Thanks for putting up with my pathetic help, -Andrew

Well the best AC: https://meraki.cisco.com/products/wireless/mr34 ($1500) Jokes aside: The best one for under $100 is an old PC running PFSense with an access point like this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833168091. But: My favorite "all-in-one" router is this random refurbished Cisco E2500. This ran for an entire semester in my sister's dorm only restarting it once (and the only reason she restarted it was because she thought it had been running for too long without a restart). This semester four college girls have had all of their devices on it (laptop, phone, ipad, Roku, printers). Can you imagine the hell that thing is going through? I'll ask her how it has been going and report back if I can remember. Just my $0.02. -Andrew

I like how this turned out.