Troika

Insulating what exactly? As for the risk of leaks, you can make the same argument about liquid cooling a computer. The risk of a water leak is commonly sited as a reason for not watercooling a computer. Thermal tape. Once the tape has time to cure, it's a fairly strong but not permanent bond. That would let me mount the blocks directly to the back of the panel (not the outer shell. Cooling the outer shell would do nothing). I don't think you understand how much empty space there is on the inside of a plasma TV. There's already vent holes along the bottom edge. Cutting and sanding those holes will allow for very clean tube routing down into a pair of manifolds (one for intake, the other for output. These can be built rather inexpensively out of PVC) That would be accurate if the TV was outside and the ambient temp was 90~100F but its not, the ambient temp is between 72~74F so the delta is much more significant. Also, the room temp isn't as important for a waterloop because the main limitation is the thermal mass of the water and the size of the radiator. It takes a VERY long time for water to heat soak to 80C. In a 120mm or 240mm rad with low water volume, maybe, sure. With a 12900K/13900K but I don't know ANYONE that would put a 120mm/240mm rad on a cpu like those. They run too hot to be properly cooled by a 120mm or 240mm. Definitely not a AIO. Maybe a thick 240mm with really good fans but I can only see that being an option for some one in a ITX setup like a Lian Li Q58. I specifically said I have a 540mm rad (triple 180mm) available to me. It holds a lot of water. The res is just a old water bucket I have with a submersible fountain pump because its actually a lot quieter than the DDC I have plus it will have no issue running continuously. Besides, I've spent $60 on worse things than trying to cool a old TV. I preordered the original Watch Dogs for my Xbox 360, still haven't played it because the reception was so awful. I watched some gameplay of it and it was kinda meh. By the time I decided to try and return it, Gamestop wouldn't take it back so I just kept it. I'll probably play it, eventually. $60 for 6 9.45"x1.57" waterblocks, some cheap PVC pipes and cheap irrigation tubing from home depot is nothing. The question I asked has yet to be answered. To reiterate, will cooling the back of a plasma panel negatively affect the panel? I don't know exactly how that technology works and I don't know if lowering the operating temperature will negatively affected it. LCDs, when cooled, does negatively affect them because it slows down the LCD response time.

Its not setup. I install it around the end of June once the outdoor temp consistantly stays above 90F. Like I said, I already have most of the parts, its just a matter of ordering $60 in aluminum coldplates. $60 to lower the heat output of the TV or $400+ to replace it. The question I specifically asked was whether or not cooling the back of the display panel on the TV would negatively affect the panel. I didn't ask if its worth it to watercool a old plasma TV vs buying a new one that suits my needs.

I mainly use the hood on my stove whenever I boil water or searing a steak because that can be a pretty smokey affair.

I have an AC that I use in the summer to limit how long the main AC kicks on. I don't think either will have similar image quality. Brightness and contrast is one thing, colors, sharpness and motion accuracy is another. Our electricity bill is about $200 a month so I don't really consider the electricity cost a major factor. I don't use it daily but I do use it about 12 hours per week between gaming on my PS2, N64 or Xbox 360 or watching Hulu/Prime Video on my Xbox One X. Guest bedroom? xD You overestimate my living situation. We live in a three bedroom apartment and share expenses fairly evenly. All in, I'm probably out about $1,040 per month. That's including cell service and internet because its cheaper for all three of us to be on a "family" plan rather than getting individual cell service. Plus, we got free Samsung Galaxy S22 each so it was a pretty sweet deal for everyone involved. Especially my best friend cause he was still using a iPhone 7 and it has a bunch of issues. I'd rather get something like a receiver because that'd let me use my home theater audio instead of the built in speakers. Not to say the built in speakers are bad, they're amazing compared to what you get on TVs nowadays but compared to my Mackie CR8s and CR8-X Sub, they're kinda trash. Those are out in the living room so I move the TV out there for movie nights on the weekend or watching anime together.

Its a 42" 1080p Panasonic. Its just wasn't being used anymore. I bought it from the original owner almost 3 years ago and they were selling it because they had upgraded to a 72" 4K OLED. They said the TV was like $1200+ when it was new, looking up the model, that seems to track. Their new TV was around $1600. That's pretty reasonable assuming the OLED will last as long at the plasma did. 10 years of service is pretty solid between upgrade cycles. The thing is that a decent TV would be $1000+ to get comparable image quality on top of something to connect vintage consoles since I doubt new TVs have component, S-Video, and composite inputs. There is a window but running a duct would obstruct the closet. Running a pair of 1/2" tubes wouldn't be obstructive as the door is about 1" from the carpet.

Getting a legitimate replacement to the image quality I get from my Plasma TV will cost WAY more than what I would like to spend. I can run my TV for 5 years and its still cheaper than the cost of getting a decent 4K that may not look as good, not including the cost of getting a Framemiester (or something similar) for my old consoles.

Most modern TVs that look as good as a plasma TV cost WAY more than just trying to jank-cool my TV.

I live in Texas, it doesn't help to open the window. Its not about how much electricity the TV uses, the image quality is better than whatever TV I can get for $100~200. Cheap LCDs don't compare to a old Plasma TV.

So, kind of a strange question. Anyone who's owned a Plasma TV will probably understand just how much they heat up a room. I have an old Panasonic TH-42PZ80U I got back in 2020 when I moved to Austin for $20. I really like the TV. The colors are incredible, the sound is great given that it has space for actually not bad built in speakers, and perfect for watching movies or playing games. The blacks are super deep, dare I say, on par with OLEDs. Yeah, its only 1080p but it looks WAY better than my 1440p monitor when it comes to enjoying content. That said, it sucks down nearly 600 watts of power all by itself. A good portion of that gets turned back into heat. It has four fans built into the back of the TV to pull heat out from the TV casing but that doesn't solve the issue that its just accelerating how fast heat gets put into the room. What I'd like to do is somehow watercool the TV and window mount the radiator so heat gets pushed outside. I'm assuming a lot of the heat being generated by the TV is coming from the panel so I was thinking of attaching a few of these on the backside of the panel and plug them into a Alphacool triple 180mm radiator and a DDC pump, maybe two. I haven't got an idea of how a plasma TV works so I don't know if cooling the panel will negatively affect image quality. I have most of the parts already, I'd just have to order those waterblocks from Aliexpress.

Now only if I could find the custom vrm and chipset block that EK made for it back in the day. I found one for the Rampage II and IV but no III.

Good news! Alphacool got back to me this morning saying they'll refund me the cost of the reservoir and compensate me 100€ for damages. I really wasn't expecting much to happen but good on Alphacool! I'll be putting those funds into getting a new X58 board. Now to decide which one. A Rampage III seems like the obvious goto for a very high end board but is it really that good?

I am the big sad today. My MSI X58 Big Bang xPower had passed away. The Alphacool Eisstation I was using for the waterloop leaked onto the board and shorted something. The board doesn't power on anymore and I don't know if the memory is ok or its fried too. I contacted Alphacool yesterday since the res is only about two months old and one of the plugs that were installed in the pump compartment from the factory had been cracked internally. I'm not expecting much but I hope they can do something for me. On a unrelated note, my main rig is getting a new motherboard today because the B450 Steel Legend board that's currently in it has periodic seizures and crashes in various ways.

Yeah, we use icue a lot at work with Corsair fans and we don't like it. Sometimes it doesn't work and we get a lot of DOA Commander pros and its really annoying. Not that there's all that many options that are less painless that we handle. Our inhouse rgb fans aren't great either. I'll probably do some more research and find some that have a good balance of the things I want. Good airflow is a priority, ease of installation would also be a big plus but once the fans are in, as long as they don't suddenly stop working, they're staying there.

Awesome! Any in particular that are a good balance between performance and looks. I'd say price but most things with eye candy tend to be priced higher than performance fans.

And they don't have to be plugged into the motherboard with a rgb 5v/12v cable to function?

So, I want to get a kit of 4 ARGB fans an a strip for a build I'm working on because it'll look pretty nice but older motherboards that predate the ARGB era (a Gigabyte Z97 G1 Sniper in this case) don't have any headers for them. I know there's basic RGB kits out there that have remotes and pre-programed patterns n' such but I want something that's higher quality and has the ability to let me control the fan speed via pwm. Is there anything like a usb 2.0 header to 3 pin 5v or something like that out there? I haven't been able to find anything yet except some weird cable that goes from 3 pin 5v to 3 pin fan header.

Yeah, that's true. If I was making hundreds or thousands of dollars a month or a week, then yeah, I'd rather all of it be directly in my possession rather inside an intermediary. But for me, I'll probably not even go past $100 a month in mining profits, assuming mining RVN doesn't yield much. Then again, RVN will need its own wallet so its not an issue compared to nicehash. Even then, I have no idea how much my Fury X will mine. What I do know is that my R9 390 is getting me $1 right now and Vega FE is getting $3.58 ($1.19 effective due to 8hr mining cycles). I'd assume given the architecture, it should sit relatively near the R9 390. HBM has a lot of bandwidth but 4GB of Vram is just that. The compute power is roughly double but power draw will probably be similar as well. If I can squeeze by with $3 a day between those three and say about $1 to 1.50 from RVN, I'd be pretty happy. That's about $120 to 135 a month (with todays prices), plenty to have a really nice bbq or a few hours of fun at the arcade.

I think I'll keep using nicehash for the gpus that can mine there. Its just more convenient and the fees seem pretty identical. A few extra cents won't really dramatically change the profitability of the cards I have and how much I can make. I can see how that might influence miner choices when operating large scale farms. 1%, can be quite a bit of profit left on the table.

Is Ravencoin the best one to mine on older cards with 3gb of vram? Are there others that are worth looking into as well? The weekend is coming up pretty soon and I can devote some more time into researching what might work best for the specific cards I have. Also, if the fees are bad on nicehash, what would you recommend as an eth alternative? With it make a noticable difference in how much I make with just two or three cards mining $2~3 a day (total, not each). If all this works out the way I'd like it to, I'll probably have some form of mining rig up and running by Sunday. Hopefully. As long as the rad and pump I bought arrives by Saturday, otherwise I can't use my Fury X. The original AIO's pump was on its way out when it was my main card so I had to put a waterblock on it or risk a catastrophic failure mid-gaming session someday. Still, I can have the R9 390 do its thing on its own until I can add the Fury X or I can put the GTX 780s ans HD 7990 together to mine RVN but I'll probably need a beefier psu. My 780s ran close to 300w each and I know the 7990 operates at around 325w. I need at least 1000w just for those. Maybe another 200~300w for the cpu and other components. Both the i7 970 and Phenom II x6 1090T are 125w chips without any overclocks.

Well, unfortunately, those only have one x16 length slot in them. What I do have are my old 990FX Sabertooth R2.0 and MSI X58 xPower Big Bang boards. I could go with the X58 board cause it is all x16 length slots. I'll just need to get a compatible, low power xeon to socket into it. That or use my i7 970 and downclock and undervolt it. Getting a xeon would probably be the easier route and not be super expensive. Plus, more pci-e lanes on X58. I don't think it really matters for mining though. All the "mining" related stuff is just x1 to x16 adapters or usb to x16. Its just keeps things easier to manage in one box if I can plug everything into one board without adapters. It'll still have the appropriate level of jank with an extra psu or two sitting on top of the case.

Yeah, I have a bunch of old c2d HP office boxes. I have one with a 500w and one with a 600w psu. They're not amazingly well ventalated but I can always take a dremel to the side panel and make some breathing holes. As long as it makes more than the electricity cost to run it, that is fine with me. Most of this stuff will probably end up as e-waste scrap anyways so making a bit of money before they're dead and only worth as scrap or spare coolers is better than just scrapping them without trying to make use of them.

Yeah, I know that. It would work fine for the 390 (8GB) and the Fury X (4GB) but the two GTX 780s I have are 3GB models and even the crown of my collection, an HD 7990, its just two 7970 3GB on a single pcb. I know there's miners and stuff that works on those but I don't know where to get started or what to look into. There's always conflicting opinions with some saying "not worth it" and others saying "you can get x MH/s using this and that" so its hard to sift through what's legit and what's BS. I'm not expecting much out of the older cards but $0.50 is 0.50 and that still beats out bank interest and most monthly stock dividends when you think about it. Its effectively "free money" after you account for electricity.

It probably wouldn't be great if that one post by MSI is anything to go by. For a 3080 at least, the difference is about 55% slower on the laptop varient compared to the desktop one. https://www.techradar.com/news/msi-demonstrates-cryptomining-performance-on-new-rtx-3080-laptop-then-deletes-post The same may not be true with lower end laptop gpus because the power requirements are lower. I just would do some research and temper your expectations.

Having worked retail, I do know what days -most- stores get new stock so I have a general idea of when to check. I currently work for a system integrator, I won't say which for the sake of anonymity, but we do get in somewhat regular stock of cards but the price we have to pay for them is pretty aweful so we have to charge accordingly just to not lose money on them. The higher end ones like 3080s are hard to come by for us. Most of what we can get a hold of are 3070s and 3060s. This whole situation just sucks in general. If y'all could see just how many computers we have on the floor waiting for parts, be it gpus, mobos, or psus. It sucks the most for customers just trying to get by.

So, I'm a total noob at this and I don't intend to start a mining farm or anything. I just have a fair amount of old hardware, most of which is older tech that's in my personal collection, and some that have problems that I can't resell in good concience. I started using nicehash on my main rig while I'm at work to make a buck or two a day with my Vega FE. I'm not really too concerned about overstressing it because its part of a custom loop and I've setup an undervolt profile to keep power in check. It uses about 220w and gets me about 32.3MH/s and a potential daily profit of $4.57 (as of 1pm cst March 31st). Given that my rig is only mining for 8 hours each day, I'm actually looking at $1.57 a day and that's more than I expected. Now, my question is about the older tech I mentioned. As I understand it, older hardware stops being efficient at mining certain things due to changes in the algorithms they use, drivers, or just draw too much power compared to newer things. I know some of the dinosaurs I have, like my GTX 295s and HD 4870x2s probably won't yield much, if at all, but I have a pair of GTX 780s, my old Fury X and a R9 390 that's going into a "new" HTPC for the living room. I was hoping that maybe they can yield a little bit of money so I can get some use out of them. I'm not expecting to get rich or anything, just some money to save up for fun stuff after a month or too like a weekend bbq or a trip to the arcade. I've already collected $14 just in a few days using nicehash. It'd be cool if I could save up $50 or $60 over the course of a month to spend on some nice things that I'd not usually spend money on. Like half a pound of thin cut wagyu short rib or a decent sized lobster and some new york strip. Call me weird :u I just want to find some use of parts in my possession that still work, despite the issues they have. I just want to get something out of them before they stop working altogether. Its not like I'd lose something valuable if one stopped working suddenly. I've gotten more used out of them than what I paid for them when I bought them a few years ago. I'm mostly just looking for some advice or tips as to what to look into. A lot of the stuff about crypto mining seems really confusing and some things say to use linux for it, which I'm not super well versed in it. I certainly don't want to dump huge amounts of money into this. I want to try and use as much of the parts that I already have. At worst, I may need a new psu, which is fine since I've been meaning to get a new one for my test bench, though this is kinda the worst time to be shopping for a good high wattage one.