ryanmassey1337

Well I type and game so Romer-G it is.
 
Those are some sick specs btw. 

You'd be waiting months if not a year... silly idea
 
Just work an extra month and get the GPU you want, yes prices are bad but it's not impossible to buy the GPU you want.

just wait for the prices to go down

Buy prebuilt, take out GPU and sell it! >:3

There are far better deals out there. Look at r/buildapcsales. I follow that pretty closely and there's some good deals. There's another site that used to be owned by those at meh that I can't seem to remember. 
Overall, with RAM and GPU prices as they are, unless you can barter yer arse off on Facebook marketplace or craigslist, prebuilt is in right now.

Solution 1:
Check if your USB drive is bootable
Before you enter into the BIOS to alter boot order settings, make sure that your newly prepared bootable USB drive is really bootable. To test if your USB drive is bootable, you can go through our how to test if your USB is bootable tutorial.
Solution 2:
Check if your PC supports booting from USB
As you likely know, one can’t boot from a USB drive on a machine that doesn’t support booting from USB. In order to check if your PC’s motherboard support USB booting, you can either check your PC’s manual or enter the BIOS to see if USB boot option is present.
And if your PC doesn’t ship with USB booting feature, don’t feed bad. There is an easy workaround to boot from USB on machines that don’t support booting from USB drive. Follow the instructions mentioned in our how to boot from USB drive even if your PC doesn’t support guide to boot from USB drive and install Windows.
Solution 3:
Configure your PC to boot from USB
If your USB drive is bootable and your PC supports booting from USB, then you need to walk into the BIOS and configure it to boot from USB. In order to enter the BIOS, you need to reboot your PC and press a specific key as soon as you see your PC reboots. Most OEMs use either Delete, F2 or F12 key to enter into BIOS but we advise you check your PC’s manual or PC manufacturer website for the right key to enter the BIOS and to know how to configure your PC to boot from USB.
Solution 4:
Check the file system of your USB drive
If your PC supports UEFI and you’re trying to install Windows in UEFI mode, you should make sure that the bootable USB drive is formatted in FAT32 file system. In short, you can’t use a NTFS formatted USB drive to boot and install Windows in UEFI mode. In order to check the file system of your USB drive, connect to a bootable PC, right-click on the USB drive, and then click Properties to see the current file system.
 
Adrian Gates
Cloud Expert - Apps4Rent

That's Micro ATX, that and the big ITX cases like the Define Nano are a bit silly to me, kind of defeats the purpose

Then an APU might be what you want anyways since you can go Ultra ITX without a GPU

Like with the Elite 110
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119299&cm_re=Elite_110-_-11-119-299-_-Product

Or one of the even smaller ITX cases that usually come with a 150W or 200W flex ATX PSU
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2F84N93953

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2F84D68853

Nay for the power supply. these bundled stuff are 99% no good, 1% doesnt work at all.

ah yeah that I do know. I actually started the build plan with a ML09 + 1050Ti LP. Just so we have that GPU upgrade path LATER on.
But that's praying NVIDIA/AMD releases another LP card later.
 
Anyways I've decided this is a one-time deal anyways, so no more upgrade plans. Maybe just adding/swapping SSDs/HDDs.
 
EDIT: she may also borrow my rig if she wants to play AAA games. but she has to buy me the game herself hahahaha

So I've been planning a build for my niece for quite a while now and I've heard the Ryzen APUs are coming out this Feb.
 
A Ryzen APU will fit very nicely to our use-case so here's a mockup of the build:
 
APU: Ryzen 5 2400G - 170$ (this is assuming the price here in my country will be even close to the release price haha)
Cooler: whatever cooler it comes with haha (or if that won't fit, maybe a Cryorig C7 or a Noctua NH-L9a-AM4) - 0-40$
Motherboard: Gigabyte AB350N Gaming WiFi - 120$
RAM: 2x8GB DDR4 of whatever's the cheapest - 160$ (at current pricing, praying it'll get cheaper)
Case + PSU: InWin Chopin with 150W PSU - 80$
SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB 2.5" SATA - 110$ (price is of the Intel 600P M.2 NVMe 256GB which I will buy for my own rig and give her the Samsung)
HDD: WD 2.5" 1TB - 0$ (will give her mine)
OS: Windows 8 - 0$ (I have a free key lying around)
 
So running total would be 680$.
I can probably shave it to around 600$ IF the Wraith cooler fits and if I REALLY LOOK for used 2x8GB DD4 kits.
This would've been a cheap build if it weren't for the 2x8GB DDR4's ridiculous pricing.
 
The build will serve as my niece's gaming PC (Roblox, Minecraft, oldschool emulators), the family's HTPC, and as a smol 1TB NAS.
 
1. yay or nay?
2. how much of a performance hit would I take if I opted for shitty ValueRAM / ValueSelect sticks ahaha?
 
P.S.
plan is to build this by March for her birthday

Volta/Ampere I am not knowing for sure, but it's coming!
 

How sure are we that Volta will be the new Gen. I think I heard something about Ampere. 

Maybe wait a few weeks or a month for this. Samsung is starting production for GDDR6, so next gen Nvidia GPU's are around the corner. Plus pricing is truly insane right now. Do not buy this overpriced bullshit.

But you can buy a 1060 or 570... in the form of a pre-built system which is currently cheaper than building your own

I spent more on a 1440p monitor than I did on my gtx 1080 about a year ago and don't regret it. With a 6gb 1060, I think he should invest in a nice high refreshrate ISP 1080p monitor similar to these: 
 
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824160164
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA7AB3X13255
 

Their performance is basically an R5 1400 + RX 550

So it's alright* for 1080p gaming
 
and there's a number of 1080p 75Hz IPS displays to go with them
 
You don't need to spend $1000 to get a good gaming experience for now, and when GPU prices settle you can just throw in a top tier GPU and be fine for 60-75hz gaming

Just gotta sub in the new APU, it'll be $169

Overkill PSU because why not, won't need to replace it

RAM prices are still deadly though
 
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VT6d8K
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VT6d8K/by_merchant/
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($164.49 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($74.33 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Team - Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($92.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($46.55 @ OutletPC)
Case: Deepcool - TESSERACT SW ATX Mid Tower Case  ($39.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Gold 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($89.59 @ SuperBiiz)
Monitor: LG - 24MP59G-P 23.8" 1920x1080 75Hz Monitor  ($146.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $654.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-01-29 00:47 EST-0500

once you go IPS you can never go back, TN panels look like hammered dog shit after using a good IPS panel, refresh rate, freesync/g-sync be damned.

Do you notice screen tearing in games currently? If not then you certainly won't notice anything at 144hz.

But really there's only the $399 korean monitors for 144hz and IPS
 
there were a few VA 1080p 144hz they were like $250 from Pixio, but they're all sold out

There IS a difference for gaming. The IPS panels for content creation are calibrated for such and offer a much wider gamut than you would get with TN. To separate IPS and TN into "gaming" or "content creation" reeks of idiocy since most quality IPS panels are similarly priced to TN panels. 
 
IPS offers better viewing angles making it more forgiving if you shift just a few inches and better color reproduction which helps with games like R6S where camouflage patterns may not be immediately visible. 

Damn, not in America. We love our gold rushes, but now that we’ve mined basically all our gold we’ve moved to crypto.

IMO IPS is definitely worth the extra cost.  It's the #1 thing I look at when buying monitors (not that I buy them that often, just replaced mine after 5 years). 
G-sync is nice too, but not at the expense of running a TN panel.  Go for IPS first, G-sync second;
 
If you're spending several hours per day looking at the screen, I really don't see a reason to make compromises.  Get the best you can, even if it means saving up a little longer. 

Honestly he should sell it. He could get about $800 for it.

Question what card did your friend buy? NVidia uses Gsync which doesn't work with Freesync monitors.

None. This is a myth, there is no such thing as a gaming switch.
 
Switches choice is subjective. Try each and get which ever you enjoy the feel of more.