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Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
Illinois
System
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CPU
i5-2310
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Motherboard
MSI B75MA-E33
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GPU
MSI 960
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Case
NZXT Phantom 530
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T_Swizzle's Achievements
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I have an old Acer laptop, Aspire 5733z-4851, it was a daily driver for my grandparents until they got tablets and has spent the last 5 years in the bottom of a cabinet. They let me have it, I took off all the pictures and important stuff and then went to do a good old windows reset, the hard drive had barely anything on it, a few updates and 3.7 gigs of pictures as said. The reset got to about 35 percent and then it rebooted, I didn't really think anything of it but when it came back the windows loading screen showed up for a few seconds, gave me a message saying that the reset failed and them immediately went into a boot loop. At the moment I'm thinking of buying an ssd to replace the old spinner boy and do a complete fresh install, also this might not make a difference but the OS was updated from Windows 7 to 10, not a clean install, if that is important info. The eventual plan would be to use this computer as a hub for some janky security cameras, I'm thinking full on webcams mounted inside of my windows pointing down the road. As an important note I've never done a fresh install of windows, I'm not a software kind of person, so this is a bit daunting to me but I'm going to bring this poor acer back from the dead. For those curious it has a Pentium, 4 gigs of that sweet sddr3 ram and a 500 gig hard drive. Thanks everyone in advance and stay safe out there
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General use PC for 50 year old cousin
T_Swizzle replied to T_Swizzle's topic in New Builds and Planning
From what I understand its an unused 4th gen, new in box but old parts. I could have worded that better if I'm being honest -
Budget (including currency): As cheaply as possible, sub 500 USD Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Basic 2D video poker, yes I'm serious, and web browsing Parts list: Intel Core i5-4590 GIGABYTE GA-B85M-D2V LGA 1150 Intel B85 Patriot Viper 3 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 ADATA Ultimate Series: SU720 500GB Internal SATA Solid State Drive EVGA 500 GD 100-GD-0500-V1 500W ATX12V / EPS12V 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Non-Modular Active PFC Power Supply COUGAR MX410 Mesh Black Powerful and Compact Mid-Tower Case with Mesh Front Panel Cooler Master 120mm Computer Case Fan w/3-Pin & 4-Pin - 4 pack OEM Package edition My great cousin is currently using a 7 year old dual core AMD system, 4 gigs of ram and an ancient hard drive all he does is watch dvds, online banking and youtube. He doesn't need the latest and greatest processor or a gpu for anything he does so I thought an older generation cpu would be more than capable of giving him a great experience without spending a ton of money on features he will never use. Everything in this list is as basic as it could be, but I'm open to any suggestions the community has. He almost bought a 250 dollar desktop and I told him not to do that and let me see what I can find. The parts list is from newegg at 450 including shipping, using brand new parts not used and I might possibly toss in an old 1050 or my 650 just to get it out of the box and actually doing something aside from collecting dust. Everyone stay safe and keep on keeping on.
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I was sure there was a way to do it, I'm balancing keeping up with this while getting ready for work at the moment lol, thanks for the info
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I've only been able to find one picture of the rails archived by Overclockersclub, I've searched high and low for this part to make sure it existed at one point and this is all there is it seems. Not my image
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i paid 20 bucks for mine second hand and it only came with one set of rails, that was in 2012 and since then I've lost the originals. I've tried other Apevia case drive rails and cages from newer cases as well but nothing has fit so far. My only complaint with the case is no real thought went into cable management but it's a product of it's time I suppose
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I have an ancient Apevia case that I would like to turn into a NAS. The case was second hand when I got it and only came with one pair of drive rails. I'm searching for some that are compatible not necessarily the original ones. I can't find it on Apevias website nor do I know the name of the case but any help would be very appreciated. I want to give this old case new life instead of getting rid of it or letting it collect dust. Thanks for coming by and stay safe everyone!
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I'm debating on putting it in place of the bottom of 5.25 inch bays or removing the mount for the front fan and part of the original hdd cage and mount it there. I'll have to sleep on it
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A friend of mine has a removable hhd cage from a phantom case with two sleds that I think i can mount in place of the 5.25 inch bay securely
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I'm on a very tight budget right now and I'm limited to an old hard drive I found in my closet at the moment, I just know double sided tape would be a bad idea with my old drive
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I recently rebuilt my computer this year and have been wanting to assemble the one I had been running since 2012. unfortunately I've run into a problem, my first case was an Apevia X-Jupiterg-bk and I have been unable to find any type of replacement sleds for the hdd or ssd. I don't want to modify the case too heavily, I know it isn't worth anything but I want to keep it just as it is, and for the time being I only have a hdd to use for the os. I was wondering if anyone had any ideas about how i can install a hdd that wouldn't involve numerous zip-ties and a healthy dose of double sided tape. Thanks for reading and I welcome any suggestions
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Resurrected Corsair k70 Vengeance mechanical keyboard
T_Swizzle replied to T_Swizzle's topic in Peripherals
Definitely, I'm a pretty large guy and got knocked on my ass because a friend of mine told me he turned off the breaker for a dryer and I went to unwire the plug -
Let me just start off by saying that I unfortunately did not take any pictures of the horrible mess that was covering the aluminum front plate of my keyboard or the mess that was covering the internal pcb, I wasn't sure if my attempts would prove fruitful so I neglected to document it at all. Given the chance to do it again I would have made some type of video going over the process. In the past few months a good friend of mine and myself have been experimenting with making our own alcohol, completely legal where I am from as long as you don't use any type of distillation process. While adding some sugar to one particular blend I had been making I forgot that when you mix sugar into a solution that has active yeast in it there will be a sudden expansion of gasses and it will bubble in whatever contain you have it in. Unfortunately for me these bubbles overflowed though the mouth of my funnel, which had about 60 grams of sugar in it. and coated my keyboard in it quickly shorting out everything it came into contact with. I did what any other person would do, borrowed a friend of mines keyboard while my new one was being shipped and happily went about my day. It was about a week before i got the idea to try and save my old keyboard. I purchased it from a friend of mine in school shorty after it was released for 50 bucks, he thought he was getting one of the rgb versions instead of static red, and it was my first mechanical keyboard. Watching Lukes video about fixing his old keyboard gave me the push i needed to try and fix it, after all what could go wrong? So I blindly began to take out all of the screws i could to get the frame separated, I was nearly ready to admit defeat when I couldn't locate the last two screws, this was my first time taking apart a keyboard and I was too stubborn to look up a guide before I began, so with the internet as my weapon I searched for the answer. Now I understand having to work around certain engineering aspects of how something is put together, I worked at a factory that had twenty to thirty year old machines still running and would often have to find screws and fasteners put in the most ridiculous places, but why would you put a screw under your logo on a product that would have to be removed for any type of maintenance or thorough cleaning by the user? The second screw (located under the right metal cover of the volume scroll wheel) makes perfect sense to me as that can be removed easily and without damaging the rather thin piece of metal. With the last of the screws out of the way the rest of it was actually pretty simple, pull the plastic back-plate free and there you go. I ran into a speed bump when I realized the metal body of the keyboard couldn't be removed, to the best of my knowledge it looked like the key switches were attached to the body itself as well as the pcb. Not stopping there I took some 91% rubbing alcohol and some cotton pads and began to clean the back of the pcb as well as I could, with the back cleaned I reassembled the keyboard with four of the screws and filled the keyboard with as much of the alcohol as I could. I let it sit and soak for about 30 minutes before I tilted it on its side and began to let alcohol run though the keyboard and drain out of the bottom. I repeated that four or five time before I took it all back apart and zip tied it to my shower curtain rod to air dry. It took about 3 hours before It had dried to the point I felt safe putting it all back together and firing it back up, and what do you know it works! I've lost some of the creature comforts the board had before, things like the mute button dose't work the brightness button dosen't do anything and the button to illuminate only WASD the space bar and arrow keys is equally as unless. Aside from those few things the only side effect I can notice is several of the keys stick and are harder to push than they were before the sugar volcano erupted on my desk. I thought about using WD-40 to fix it but have read several conflicting articles, some say that it wont hurt anything at all while others insist that it will degrade the plastic of the keycaps as well as damage the pcb. If anyone has any suggestions about how I can remedy this I would welcome the input. I hope whoever reads this enjoyed the tale, and like Luke pointed out don't be afraid to take apart your broken electronics to see if you can fix them.
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I'll definitely do that, I was just wondering if it was a known issue with my particular model or if I had just gotten a bad unit
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T_Swizzle changed their profile photo
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It took me a while to diagnose it as coil wine, it ins't very loud and for the longest time I thought I hadn't tightened down a screw in my rig and that was causing a vibration somewhere in the case because of it tone. The return window closed right after I had finally tracked it down, looks like I'll have to pray to the PC gods it last until I can afford a higher quality power supply