Ttnuagmada

I've used Liquid Ultra and Conductonaut at different points with the same delid, and any difference was within margin of error. I've never heard of LT-100.
 
Also, if you aren't using it for a delid and are just using it between the IHS and HSF, you're going to be disappointed. 

Delidding will give you a much larger cooling boost than changing coolers. You'll drop 15-20C. 

just the stock fans

To be fair, even a monster custom loop isn't going to give you too much more over something like an NH-D15. That's because the bottleneck of CPU heat removal is generally the heat transfer from the core to the cooling solution. It of course is going to depend on the CPU, but a typical non-HEDT CPU is only going to perform slightly better with a custom loop vs a good AIO or a NH-D14/D15.
 
Just to clarify, things change when we're talking about an HEDT chip.

Your airflow isn't the problem. You either need to re-seat block, or the pump in your cooler is faulty.

Your airflow isn't the problem. You either need to re-seat block, or the pump in your cooler is faulty.

Your airflow isn't the problem. You either need to re-seat block, or the pump in your cooler is faulty.

Technically, an air-cooled computer is a gas cooled computer. 

Technically, an air-cooled computer is a gas cooled computer. 

For Push/Pull I would think you'd want a Nemesis GTX or SR2. GTR is for high fan speeds, it doesn't pull ahead of a GTX until 1800+ rpm. The XE is a good option too. I've used the GTX, SR2 and EK XE in P/P all with great results.

Boost 3.0/4.0 will drop the clockspeed of the GPU one bin (ie 14ish mhz) every 10C starting at 50C. This is separate from actual thermal throttling that the card will also do when it hits the thermal limit.

and the reason it goes from 2070 to 2055 is because it exceeds 50C. There's another bin drop at 60C as well. That's how it works. If you keep it below 50C it will never drop speeds from the initial max boost clock (assuming you don't hit the power limit).

I get about an 8-10c delta on my 1080ti's, but I used Conductonaut. 14C is not unrealistic. I don't think there's anybody out there getting a 5C delta.

I generally do it once a year, though I personally had issues with EK's Cryofuel starting to break down in a matter of weeks and clogging my CPU block and killing my flowrate. happened 2 different times and I only noticed because i have a flowrate meter.  I've had no problems since switching to Mayhems X1 though. 

Yeah i think that pump will be fine.

About the only thing with more heat capacity than water is Ammonia. 

The only thing you need to be concerned with in terms of loop order, is making sure that the res comes before the pump and that water from the res naturally flows to the pump when you're filling the loop.  Loop order otherwise doesn't really matter. There will not be significant differences in the water temp at any point throughout the loop. 

Must be a euro thing. I can get a gallon (3.79 liters) of distilled water for 99 cents at any local grocery store here in the states. 

Definitely something up with your GPU temps. a 240 rad should keep that thing in like the 30's-40's with those fan speeds. 

I can give you some anecdotal evidence on the SW3 performance vs the ML120's. When i was trying to decide which fans to go with for my SMA8 build, i bought a bunch of several types just to see what their real world performance was, and see what they all sounded like, because dB doesn't tell the story. Some fans have a sound signature that you might not like even though they are "quiet".  As far as that goes, EK Vardar F3's and Nidec GT's have a distinct motor/bearing noise that can be heard much above 800 rpm, and i thought they sounded awful even if they are technically "quiet". 
 
Anywho, the ML120's actually performed noticeably worse than the SW3's in terms of Delta T on my EK 360XE cooling a 3770K. I had to run the MLs at 1000 rpm to get the same cooling performance as the SW3's at 800 rpm. The SW3's also had no sound of any kind other than air movement (on the 1400rpm ones at least) even at max speed. The ML's were quiet too, they just performed worse.  Airflow and SP measurements don't tell the whole story apparently. 

The i1 display pro will take faster readings, and has better software compatibility for software like Calman and other commercial software, but they are otherwise physically the same, and a Colormunki Display will be just as accurate as an i1 Display Pro. The Colormunki Display will still work fine with free software like ColorHCFR or DisplayCal. 

i1 Display Pro or Colormunki Display are the ones you want to look at. Stay away from the Spyders. 

definitely colormunki display.