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Ttnuagmada

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  1. the 140 would almost certainly move more air.
  2. I've run a similar setup and can offer some insight: Had a 5800X and 3080FE crammed in a Silverstone GD08 for about a year and a half (actually moved it all to an o11d mini and added a 280 rad just last week) It's not designed for water cooling, but I was able to fit an EK 360XE in P/P in it after some minor mods. Basically, with a 20C ambient, I could keep fans at 1k RPM or so (Corsair ML120's), and with a GPU undervolt I could keep the GPU in the low 50's during a heavy gaming session (this is on an LG C1 at 4k120hz, so the GPU is pretty much always maxed). the undervolt more or less got me 1900-1950mhz at 950mv. Had PBO at 127/75/110 (i think) and a -25 offset on most of the CPU cores. CPU would maybe occasionally go over 80C, but not very often. Keep in mind the GD08 does not have airflow that's conducive to water cooling, plus the case was crammed to the absolute gills. Would have no doubt gotten better results with a case that had better airflow. Switching to the 011D and adding a 280 definitely improved things, but not by an absolutely massive amount (everything runs about 10C cooler). Anywho. My opinion is that a thick 360 rad in good conditions can definitely handle that setup, just be sure to undervolt the GPU/CPU
  3. For whatever reason, the white LL120's specifically are made to be high static-pressure. The black ones are not made to be radiator fans at all really.
  4. If you got a thick rad like an HWL SR2/GTX or EK 360XE, and ran decently high fan speeds (probably 1200-1500rpm), it would probably be OK, but I wouldn't expect temps to be much better than air cooling.
  5. There is no fan that is even close to silent at 1000 RPM while blowing on a rad. Very very quiet, or effectively silent maybe if you have some background noise? Sure, but if you're shooting for "I can't tell if this thing is turned on or not" in a quiet room, you have to go much lower, regardless of the fan. I haven't had a chance to sample the A12's yet, but the NF-F12's have to go down to the 400 rpm range to achieve it. I know A12's are boss, so they might could do it at 500 rpm, but no way are they going to do it at 1000.
  6. I'm not all that familiar with what's out there currently. This exact thing is what drove me to get a Caselabs case. I think the Lian Li 011 dynamic can potentially fit 3 360 rads, but I think you have to be pretty selective about it.
  7. Totally depends on your goals here. Are you shooting for complete silence and top tier temps? Are you shooing for complete silence with merely acceptable temps? What do you consider to be silent? Just to give an idea, here's my build: 3770K@4.9ghz and 1.416v dual 1080ti's running 2100/6180 I have these things essentially pushed to their limits (for daily usage at least). I also wanted complete silence and I'll detail my build and what can be expected: So I have an HWL 560 GTX, 480 GTX, and 280 SR2 and I have 2 D5's. I also have 22 Be Quiet! SW3 fans for all of it (p/p config) all in a Caselabs SMA8. With this setup, I'm running the fans at 400 RPM and just leave them set at that speed. Pump speeds are at 60%. Ambient temp is about 21C. In gaming situations, if I'm using both GPU's, the GPU temps might creep into the low 40's. If I'm using one GPU, it stays in the low-mid 30's depending. CPU temps max around 65C. CPU temps won't be nearly as sensitive to your setup, it's the GPU temps that will be. I literally have to put my ear up against the vented portion of my case to tell the thing is turned on. From my normal sitting position, the case is about 3 feet away, slightly below ear-level. I cannot hear it at all. The hardest part of getting it completely silent was damping the pumps by making foam feet for them and finding the right pump speed for minimum reverb. That will probably be your challenge as well. Now, at full load in something like Time Spy stress test, my system pulls about 1000w. Yours would probably be closer to 600ish, so you don't need nearly as much cooling as I do to achieve the same results. So assuming the same radiators, in terms of HWL GTX/SR2 cooling area (they perform very similar), my rads are roughly 175K mm^2 of rad area, so for something similar to my performance, you would need something closer to 105K mm^2 of GTX/SR2 rad space. 2 480 rads are about 115K mm^2. If 800 RPMs is silent enough for you, then 2 360's would probably work, however, I don't personally feel that 800 RPMs is anything even approaching silent. Personally, I think you should be shooting for much lower fan-speeds, and for that I think dual 480's would be a great fit. You might also be comfortable with higher temps, so that's another consideration for how much rad space you want. However, keep in mind that Nvidia GPU's will automatically start downclocking a bin for each 10C starting at 50C, so your goal should be to keep your GPU below 50C no matter the scenario. If you plan on going push/pull I'd recommend looking at the GTX rads as they'll be slightly better than the SR2, and are cheaper. If you're just going to stick to push, then the SR2's will be better. The SR2 has a lot more port flexibility as well.
  8. I gave about the most detailed description possible of what to expect. Not sure what else you want.
  9. If you're going to do one 360 then get the XE kit at a bare minimum.
  10. It's a poor general rule. Radiators should be selected by wattage. It just happens make sense if you're talking about a CPU and a mid-ranged GPU since they consume similar amounts of power, but that's purely coincidence. When you're talking about the top tier GPU's, those things consume a lot more power. IE an OC'd 2080ti by itself can consume as much power as an OC'd 8700K and 1080 together.
  11. Delidding will give you a much larger cooling boost than changing coolers. You'll drop 15-20C.
  12. I've used Liquid Ultra and Conductonaut at different points with the same delid, and any difference was within margin of error. I've never heard of LT-100. Also, if you aren't using it for a delid and are just using it between the IHS and HSF, you're going to be disappointed.
  13. No, I'm talking about the "oddly specific situation" of every non-HEDT Intel chip made in the past several years delided or not. The delidding merely improves the situation, it does not remove it as the primary bottleneck, while the act does confirm what the bottleneck is. The 9900K is probably the exception here, but the NH-D14/D15 has been doing perfectly fine with maxed out Intel CPU's for years. I dropped all of 3C going from an NH-D14 to custom water with a delidded 4.9ghz 3770K running 1.416v. I'm not sure why you think there are many non-HEDT CPU's using more power than that would be. Not that it matters, as it quickly becomes the bottleneck in a custom loop for a 9900K as well. GPU behavior under water is easy confirmation of what I'm talking about. I mean it's not rocket science. a maxed out GPU using significantly more power is going to have like an 8-10C temp delta while a maxed out, delided CPU is going to be 30C+ and will vary largely based on how much heat/power it's putting out. You don't get that kind of delta variance with a GPU.
  14. I was specifically talking about non-HEDT chips and specifically talking about anything much more than an NH-D14/D15. I think my point is still valid. Heat transfer becomes the main bottleneck because you're dealing with small, high frequency silicon, and getting the heat away from it becomes the main bottleneck once you're in NH-D15 territory. This is why delidding has such a massive effect. By using liquid metal, you are improving the situation by a large amount, but it is still ultimately the bottleneck. That's why going from an NH-D15 to the biggest custom loop you can make is only going to give you minor improvements.
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