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xFluing

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Posts posted by xFluing


  1. I am using Windows 10, an RX 580 video card, and my main monitor (Viewsonic VX2458) is connected through Displayport, with a secondary one (Samsung Syncmaster) through a HDMI to VGA adapter.

     

    Whenever I turn off the main monitor, the system acts as if I outright unplugged the monitor and moves everything to the secondary monitor. The same does not happen if I turn off the secondary monitor. Can I prevent this from happening?


  2. 8 minutes ago, AdvancedMicroDisapointment said:

    If I had to guess likely cost or something like that. Maybe they didn't think enough people used it to justify the extra production cost. I can't think of reason that would prevent them from being able to do it now

    I thought all monitors were like that, where they'd come with a cable that on one end it plugs into the PSU instead of a dedicated power cord.


  3. I honestly liked this aspect ratio, I had two main monitors like that (unknowingly, i did not know aspect ratios back then) and I have to say it seems to be a very good aspect ratio, being the best compromise between 4:3 and 16:9. You get more vertical space, but also get the benefits of a wide monitor, and because there's more vertical space to work with I could argue that they have the potential of being a bit more immersive.


  4. I'm looking into buying myself a power bank and I don't really want to overspend, I need one for my phone (Samsung A40) and Nintendo DSi XL, maybe my bluetooth speaker as well.

     

    However, I'm not on the go that much, so I'd have to use it for a maximum of one full charge per day (one device at a time), would a 10k mAh be enough for a setup like this? If so, what brands would you guys recommend?


  5. On 4/12/2019 at 4:45 PM, TVwazhere said:

    A case with a fully front Mesh will have better airflow than a case with side vents, however depending on the side ventilation (how big the gaps are) you can actually get decent to good airflow from them. The MB520 has proper ventilation sizes but utilizes them poorly by mis-positioning the fans.

     

    The MB511 RGB has a mesh front panel which negates the fact that the fans aernt position correctly for side vent intake since they can pull air directly from the front.

    https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16811119356

     

    If you really like the look of the MB520 you can use it, but I would recommend switching the fan locations so that they're inside the frame of the case. This gives them more room to pull air in and take better advantage of the airflow path.

    11-119-357-V03.jpg

    Well as long as I can easily move them on the inside of the case it shouldn't be a problem.

     

    Nevermind that, I found an MB511 in stock thanks for the advice.


  6. 22 hours ago, TVwazhere said:

    We need a case Budget and location (country) to best be able to help you.

     

    The Go-To for high quality Mesh front cases under $100 USD is the Fractal Design Meshify C. If you want three fans on the top instead of only two, the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M TG would be my recommendation.

    Budget would be somewhere around that yeah but I'm also looking for a case with lots of fans included, something like a Masterbox MB520. What I should have asked is if I would have any airflow issues with that Cooler Master case even though it seems that the front panel vents are large enough for the fans to breathe.


  7. Just now, Kierstad said:

    Thank you for linking that informative video...so really with that being said it boils down to whether or not i want to deal with SLI headaches or not.  I think I'll just stick with the single GPU for now and if I need to I can add to it.  I just can't see spending this astronomical amount of money on some of these freakish builds for something I won't really notice that much.

    For me, having been gaming for so long, I can definitely see microstutters and screen tear, and then the obvious issue that you can run into with using a bad panel in your display of ghosting...those are the main things I want to avoid.

    Kind of new to the forums here and not sure if there are recommended builds listed?  Someone had mentioned pc part picker to me before but when I looked, the search results were really misleading (i.e. showing they were for certain cards, but not including all of the parts used in the build with total price, etc).

    If you want to avoid ghosting just look for panels with a 1ms response time.

     

    Tearing can be easily fixed with a g-sync / freesync panel

     

    Microstutters mostly happen if you've got an underpowered CPU (such as a dual core pentium), I have a Ryzen 5 2600 (way weaker than an i7 9900k) and haven't seen microstutters yet, however I built my PC with the idea of it being a better all rounder and good price to performance (the 2600s are actually outselling intel right now because of intel's shortages).


  8. 4 minutes ago, Kierstad said:

    Your point on the physx dedicated card showing no impact...what do you mean?  I would think that if you have a decent card that is offloading the work for engines like Havok, that it would be beneficial and free up your main GPU to handle the rest?

     

    I've typically been an Intel/Nvidia consumer so wasn't even aware of the Navi, but am definitely open to suggestions.

    Not really looking to do 8k gaming at 60hz, no need for that.

    I just want to make sure I'm buying the right gpu/cpu that will support driving multiple displays (maybe sometimes in eyefinity/surround view or whatever it's called now), and be able to run at higher resolutions with consistent frames.

    As for waiting, my problem is the gaming laptop I have right now is starting to show it's wear and tear.  The ssd I'm using is starting to have issues with completely disappearing from the system while I'm using it (thinking either it's failing or something happened to the connection) and I'm honestly not really looking to open the thing up and replace nvme on it.  Have also been running into issues with it randomly forcing itself to use the integrated intel gpu instead of the discrete 1070, which is annoying as all hell.  Not much of a fan of MSI laptops anymore :(

     

     

    Luke has done some tests and there was no difference in performance.

     

    And about the surround display thing, I'm not quite sure but given how stingy RTX cards are with VRAM, I'd still wait for a Navi launch as the 8GB on an RTX 2080(non-Ti) are already becoming a limiting factor at 4k Ultra.


  9. There's two points worth discussing here:

     

    1. Using a separate GPU as a physx dedicated card shows no impact on performance whatsoever (that is if you don't use something like a 750 ti for it)

    2. I would hold off on buying anything new right now as AMD's Navi is due this year which, if it's good, it might drag down the prices of these overpriced RTX cards (if you wanna stick to Nvidia, alternatively get Navi if it's any good as it's rumoured to offer similar levels of performance to a 2070 but half the price)


  10. I have a 144 Hz monitor which uses HDMI 2.0 as input. Whenever a full screen game is set to a refresh rate below 144, everything turns pink, now I wouldn't have posted this here had there not been a caveat: shitty ports like Dark Souls 1 won't let me choose anything higher than 60 Hz (not even with DSFix) so I'm pretty much stuck with a pink screen, how can I fix this?


  11. A friend has this semi-modular PSU with a plug for SATA and one plug for peripherals (aka molex)

    I was wondering if he could plug a SATA power cable into the peripherals plug and use power from there as SATA. I know at least on corsair supplies SATA and peripherals power are the same plug so I'm thinking they might be interchangeable on this particular power supply as well: Sirtec High Power 750W 85+ Certified.


  12. 17 minutes ago, NickPickerWI said:

    I used the MSI B450M Gaming in a build recently, and it worked great. Spent just under $80 USD.

     

    Do you need onboard WiFi? Lots of SATA devices? Any reason you're not looking at MicroATX?

    Well, full sized ATX looks better IMO also given I have a mid tower ATX case and the mATX inside looks rather weird. Also, I'd imagine a full sized ATX has better VRMs, also no, I will never use wi-fi.


  13. Just now, Quadriplegic said:

    2600 will likely be a better overclocker from what I have seen, as 1600x may struggle going above 4 GHz.

    But unless you are extreme overclocker, I suggest to go with cheaper option

    I'm not an extreme overclocker, any performance will be a vast improvement over this 860k.


  14. Just now, Bravo1cc said:

    i have the 1600x and it overclock to 4ghz very easy and i am running this now with no issues at all, if you just using your pc for gaming the 1600x is plenty as the load will be on your GPU for the most part so i don't believe the 2600 is needed

    What about recording / streaming? I know the 2600 has no issues whatsoever.

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