SuperAn

Ok, the 5800X3D is the way to go, I found a good deal for 329 euro, so I ordered it. Thanks for the help everybody!

Thanks for the replies! What kind of optimizations would you suggest? I'm indeed more inclined to upgrade to the 5800X3D, the other two options seems indeed a bit wasteful if the system as a whole works otherwise perfectly.

Hi everybody, I'm in the market to upgrade my current system because my CPU is not powerful enough to handel late game Paradox games like Victoria 3 or EU4. Current set-up: CPU: Ryzen 5 3600X Mobo: X570 Gigabyte Aorus Pro RAM: 32GB DDR4 (Corsair Vengeance 3200Mhz C16) GPU: Nvidia 3070 FE PSU: 550Watt (Generic modular corsair gold rated PSU) The question is with what do I upgrade? Quasi all the benchmarks online focus on FPS, which is almost completely irrelevant for me (I game on a 4K, 60hz monitor). From anecdotal posts on the internet it seems that the Risen 7 5800X3D is the obvious upgrade to make and that it would be the best CPU for simulation games. However, the 5800X3D cost 400 euro, which is fairly close to the price of a new DDR4 Z690 + i5-13600K build (I would recycle the ram, Cooler, GPU, PSU, SSDs from my old build), would be around 550 euros. But then the question becomes, if I'm changing platforms anyway, am I not better of changing to a X670 board + Ryzen 5 7600X (Taking into account that I can change the CPU's again in 3 years again). So I see 3 options: Option 1: Simple CPU swap: 3600x to 5800X3D for ca 400 euro. Option 2: New intel DDR4 build: cpu: i5-13600K Mobo: MSI PRO Z690-A DDR4 for ca 550 euro Option 3: New AMD build: cpu: ryzen 5 7600X mobo: Gigabyte AORUS X670 ELITE AX RAM: 32 GB DDR5 6000Mhz (G.Skill Flare X5 F5-6000J3636F16GX2-FX5) for ca 780 euro From a cost performance perspective, which option would be the smartest? Am I forgetting something? I don't mind spending a bit extra if it allows for far better performance. Thanks in advance!

Hi, At the moment I have following network setup in our home/SOHO. Internet subscription of 1000Mbps down and 50Mbps up. A virtualized pfSense on VMWare ESXI 7.0 (Host Spec: HP SFF8200 with I5-2500 en 8GB ram) and a TP link Deco X60 wireless solution with 3 units. I use them with an internet backhaul. I bought the TP link Deco X60 in the end of may as replacement of my router and acces point setup at the moment. The installation was kinda easy because there weren't any settings to configure. I got fantastic wireless speeds. My house consists of two floors and concrete walls. I was able to get at least 300Mbps down and 45 Mbps with my iPhone 7 and at least 700Mbps down and 45Mbps up with my MacBook Pro 2015 around the house. However some devices (An iPad Air 2 and a laptop with an Intel 8260 wireless chip) where loosing their connection all the time. Tis worsened when the new firmware came out on the 19th of juin ( firmware: 200527), at that point every wireless device experienced disconnects every few minutes. So I started mailing Tp-Link support, they said it had to do with double NAT (kinda weird since all my wired devices where perfectly fine), and they wanted me to put the main deco in bridge modus at my ISP modem/router. So I did. Unfortunately the Tp-Link was not able to fetch a public IP adres (it took me two weeks of mailing to convince the support office of this fact). So their next suggestion was to put the Deco X60 in AP mode instead of router mode. Unfortunately my ISP's router/modem does only support 15 devices at the same time so this wasn't feasible for me (we have 30 devices). So I started working with pfSense and was able to configure it and get It working. I was able to put the pfSense router in bridge mode. So the decos only work as APs. Doing this the stability of the connection between the devices improved greatly. However a few problems remain with the Deco X60: - The TP-link setup is completely dependent on an app, there is a web interface but it can only be used for rebooting the satellites and upgrading the firmware. I'm afraid for the longevity of the device. - The device has bad security it uses a combination of WPA/WPA2 personal (There have been network attacks in the past so good security is important for me). - Everything is locked down, even the channels can't be chosen. (The device has chosen the busiest channel and there is no way to change it). - In AP mode there is no possibility to assign a static IP to the devices. - Also I did pay for the router function but I will not be using it anymore. - The device it not yet ready to be sold, due to unstable firmware. The Tp link support guy allowed me to return the product. The question is, what do I put in instead? I've a budget around 400 Euro. The nice thing about the deco X60 is, that it is very very fast and that it had WiFi 6 for future proofing. So the devices I replace the Deco set with need to be at least as fast as the deco X60. Wifi 6 would be nice but not heaving it, is not a dealbreaker. For the moment the three units cover the house perfectly. So qua range it would have to be the same or better. It's also important that there is a seemingness roaming feature. I only need one SSID, the Deco mixed the 2.4g en 5g signals which worked very well. I do not need multiple VLANS. I had following replacements in mind: - Two Ubiquiti UniFi Flex HD (ca. 350 Euro) - Two Cisco Meraki Go GR60 (ca. 344 Euro) - Two Asus ZenWiFi AX (XT8) (ca. 467 Euro) - Maybe four Cisco 1815i (there is a global deal buy one, get one)? (ca. 276 Euro) I'm open to for other suggestions, also I find it important that the device I'm buying receives updates for at least a few years. Kind regards, SuperAn

@mayhems91 hahaha thanks for the analogy @TofuHaroto I will make my peace with it. Its probably better to just use 16gb at 3200 than 32gb at 2666 à 2800 at worse timings. (16gb is plenty for my use at the moment). Thank you all for your help!

What I do not understand is, that when the modules are used separately, they do work at full 3200Mhz speed. How is this possible?

So I tried the the results of the DRAM calculator set for 4 modules. (I left "tRFC" on auto, since I my bios does not have the "tRFC (alt)"option). I tried the results for the Hynix and the Samsung memory, no boot unfortunately even with a DRAM voltage on 1,39V. Any other ideas? Reverting back to a bios of January 2019 (version: 7A32v1L, the bios I'm on is supposed to offer "improved OC memory compatibility")

@TofuHaroto That the problem Two of the four dimms are Hynix and the other two are Samsung I changed the core voltage to 1.1V (its that or 1.0875V), It did not work unfortunately. I will play around with the dram calculator for a bit with the "4 module" setting.

@TofuHaroto I'm already on the newest bios (7A32v1NV), or do you know of a newer one? (It has been awhile since MSI released an update for this bord, and the one I'm running is a beta version). I've manually set the DRAM voltage to 1,35V, however it does not help. As you can see on the picture is my core voltage well above 1,09V, its on 1,4V ( I don't think it will be stable when I lower it). I'm running 4 dimms, so the 4 slots are filled. @boggy77 Do I use the Hynix or Samsung as start position? The soc voltage is on its own already quite high no? Thanks for your replies! An

Hi, My system has following specs: - CPU: 2600X - MOBO: MSI Gaming pro carbon X370 (I'm on the latest bios 7A32v1NV) - GPU: ASUS GTX 1070 - RAM: 4x8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200MHZ (CMK16GX4M2B3200C16) off which: -2x8GB Samsung K4A8G085WB-BCPB -2x8GB Hynix H5AN8G8NAFR-TFC Context: I build my system originally with 16GB Vengeance ram (the Hynix version). I could run XMP on 3200MHZ, without any problems. In my dad's new system I used the same Ram-kit as in mine, (his system is having some RAM hiccups as well), long story short, I put his RAM-kit in my system. After the installation of my dad's RAM-kit in my system, I saw that his kit uses Samsung B-dies where mine uses Hynix AFR chips. Problem: When I wanted to put the XMP profile on again in the BIOS, the system power cycled and went back to the "default" 2133mhz. I tried different timings and voltages that I found on the internet, but the highest speed on which the computer would not power cycle and boot is 2800MHZ (16-18-18-38 at 1,35V) I tried DRAM Calculator in an attempt to find stable timings, however the two memory chips give two different results, so I don't really know how to "combine" the two results in a working fashion. (I tried the kits separately and they do work on 3200MHZ XMP, when they are not mixed). As attachment, I provided Thaiphoon burner results and the DRAM calculator results I got. Does anybody have any ideas to get the ram stable at 3200Mhz? Kind regards, Andreas ramsamsung.html ramhynix.html

Thanks for your reply ! On the other hand I could keep the current monitor controllers and configure them as one monitor with Nvidia surround, or do you still see some problems. (I have an GTX 1070)

Hi, I was thinking about a new project. I have two (very) old 17” VGA monitors. Both have a 1280x1024 resolution. I would want to “fuse” them together so I would create an 2048x1280 monitor (It would be a secondary monitor). I would place the two panels in a self made wooden frame/enclosure. I’m only not certain about the execution. Is there a way to have a monitor controller both screens ? Or do I keep de current monitor controllers ? Does anyone have experience with this kind of procedure ? The two monitors in question are: - MAG CY-765 LCD Display - Medion MD 30217 PG (EAN: 29055944) Kind regards, An

I've an update: The original "broken" apple drive is not NVME, it is AHCI/SATA. My motherboad does support SATA and NVME in the M.2 slots. According to the seller, the adapter only works for SATA drives and only for data and not as a boot device. However i still did not manage to fix the drive

hmm too bad , in the meantime the apple-ssd is not at all showing up in the bios "board explorer" (which is weird because windows and linux show it as a 0B drive?) I also tried the ssd power cycle trick, which did not help. would it be worth a shot to buy this adapter? This does state to support the macbook pro 2015 drive where the other does not. Personaly i do not think it would make a difference.

Hmm, i was affraid this would be the case. however if it is completly death, why can i still see it has a samsung controller on it?