MrChemistryCow9

I recently just completed a move where I got a new modem, and new router. After a few days of it running, it completely lost internet but retained connection to the network, no matter on ethernet or Wi-Fi, and it refused to connect to a newly created guest network, as some people said that was the issue that plagued them. I only had no internet on my PC, and more specifically, after some testing, my specific installation of windows, meaning either a driver (which I updated, along with my BIOS, although it could still be the issue) or some sort of firewall or security is blocking it. When running the network troubleshooter, it said security or firewall could be blocking your internet connection. Does anyone know how I could fully check to see if those fix the issue? I believe I turned off the firewall, but that didn't fix it, and I could have done it wrong. I do have a Windows key from a organization so I could get free windows, but I don't know how to remove the organization (if its still on) and how to get rid of the key. It said my windows access was leaving soon. Thanks.

The one 8 pin on the Taichi worked just fine. If it splits into 4+4 its eps

I was trying to install CentOS, and it failed because it couldn't recognize any partitions besides 1. I then tried Debian, and this kinda worked, however it was text only, and I was unable to input password. I then said "f*ck it" and decided to go back to windows. It said "OS not found" despite it still being there in the bootloader. I went back to macos to try and delete debian, but I could not get it to happen, so I decided to use debian to delete the partitions it was on, with the installer. This did not work, as it would need to install debian. This is when I tried to switch back to MacOS or Windows, after holding ALT in the bootup, it was blank. There are no other OSes showing, despite 2 being on the drive, and no changes made to the HDD. I can't figure out why this would happen, and I would like the save the data on the laptop with minimal cost. OS: Mac OS X Mojave & Windows 10 (Home, I think) Specs: Macbook Pro 15" Mid 2012 Thanks for the help! I can add any details if needed or photos.

Hey y'all, I found this Apevia PSU for 65 on amazon. It's 600W Gold rated. I was wondering what it would be rated on here? I heard it's the same PSU other brands use. Apevia ATX Prestige 800W

Hi, I've been thinking about upgrading to a full loop for a while now, and with that will come full fans upgrade. I want to get 280mm and 420mm radiator but I didn't know if I should go with the QL140 White by corsair, Phanteks F140XP fan, or the Noctua Chromax A-14 PWM. The specs for each are: QL140 (PWM): 550-1250 +-10% RPM 26 dBA 1.4mm-H2O 50.2 CFM F140XP (PWM): 600-1200 +-250 RPM 15.22-19 dBA 0.39-1.52 mm-H2O 40.9-85.19 CFM Chromax A-14 PWM 1500 RPM 24.6 dBA 2.08 mm-H20 82 CFM Theres also a couple BeQuiet! fans I saw but I didn't know if I should add them on. Each one of these has varying levels of looks and etc. I just didn't know how much of a difference in cooling all three of these would make? Is it worth it to get the better looking QLs? Or will I lose out on some serious cooling capability?

I just did a quick cable clean up job on my pc. I guess I screwed it up again as it started crashing when it went over 100% power with cpu load. I tried fixes and none worked, and I can tell when they do as kombustor doesn't report GPU power if its not working. What would you do?

Yea. I am glad it wasn't a bad psu.

A frys employee recommended it to me. This was before I had my current build as the PSU transferred over. I fixed it anyways though, it was a lose power cable. I didn't know that psus were really tiered back when I got it 2 years ago. Also isn't the Smart Pro RGB a bad PSU too, as this isn't really an entry level system?

I had none of these issues before unless I was hard overclocking which I am not. I have the Smart M. How do you know which is suitable?

I did this. At 80% it didn't crash, but with kombustor and p95 running, kombustor crashed it because it used nearly 100% (reported) power 110-115% (reported by precision x1) I don't understand why this would cause a crash, my PSU should be able to support it plenty unless it is drawing more than expected.

Alright. I'll try this after school. Thanks.

Resevoir and Radiators aren't super important by brand, jsut made sure they're not bad, and won't break. Also I wouldn't bother as its not more than 5 dollars of difference. Also be careful with cheap res combos, as you want to always use a D5 pump.

Hi, I recently took out my CPU and repasted it (A week or 2 ago), and a little got into the socket, but it was cleaned well. It has been working fine until about 2 days ago. I would be playing a game such as GTA V or KSP and after 0-15 minutes in a game it crashed. It couldn't have gone above 87 C as P95 on Small FFTs doesn't go above that and that's to the MAX. I tried resetting BIOS to default, and turning off XMP and GPU OC. Still would crash PC. No warning, just off. It functions fine under idle. XMP seems to make it more unstable along with CPU oc but I don't know for sure as it still crashes. My RAM, also will not light up in iCUE which is odd, and it will only freeze typically with ASRock Polychrome open. (Not open right now) I ran memtest86 with 1 pass and there were 0 errors. Tried chipset, BIOS update, geforce drivers, windows update, none of that worked. I'm on Windows 10 1903 and ASRock BIOS 2.8 3800x X570 Taichi H100i Platinum SE Corsair Vengeance Pro 3000MHZ 15 CAS 16GB EVGA 2080 XC Ultra Gaming Thermaltake Smart (M) 750 Watt Bronze Thanks for the help! It's been puzzling me lately.

Alright. But if my pc crashes with P95, but nothing else, can I overclock it to that speed?

Ah okay.