Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

MrChemistryCow9

Member
  • Content Count

    258
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards


This user doesn't have any awards

About MrChemistryCow9

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday 2006-06-25

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    MrChemistryCow#2665
  • Steam
    ☣☢MrChemistryCow☢☣
  • Battle.net
    MrCow#11961
  • Reddit
    MrChemistryCow9
  • Twitch.tv
    MrChemistryCow18

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Washington
  • Interests
    PC Gaming
    PC Screwing Around With
    Nerf Blasters
    Anything Technical
  • Biography
    I like gaming and screwing around with PCs. Add me on any of my accounts and shoot me a dm if you want to play.
  • Occupation
    In School

System

  • CPU
    Intel i5-6400
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z170a SLI Plus
  • RAM
    16gb Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 3000mhz 15 CAS
  • GPU
    EVGA RTX 2080 XC Ultra Gaming
  • Case
    Corsair 460x
  • Storage
    1TB Western Digital Blue, 480GB Samsung 860 EVO
  • PSU
    ThermalTake SmartPower 750W Semi-Modular
  • Display(s)
    HP 27ea
  • Cooling
    Corsair H100i Platinum
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 RGB MK2 Rapidfire SE
  • Mouse
    Corsair Glaive Black
  • Sound
    Corsair HS60
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I recently upgraded to a Ryzen 3800x and X570 Taichi from an i5-6400 and MSI Z170A because the motherboard died. My power supply is a Thermaltake Smart M 750W, My gpu is an EVGA 2080 XC Ultra Gaming, and I can give other specs if necessary. The PSU should be plenty to run it and I had a repair shop test the psu and they said the voltages were fine so was the grounding to the case. I have bios edition 2.10 I’m pretty sure but I cannot check. I have no clue why the old motherboard died and why the issue is currently happening. Without an EPS connector, it turns on and runs fine with respect to LEDs but the fans will be off or very loud. With an EPS, it does this but shuts off for a second and stays like that if I try to turn it on. I have no explanation why and any help would be greatly appreciated.
  2. My computer got back from a repair shop and said they should replace the motherboard. I replaced it myself to save a lot of money. My 3800x, X570 Taichi, Corsair 16gb Vengeance RGB Pro 3000mhz, Thermaltake Smart M 750W and a 2080 evga. The motherboard LEDS would turn on with everything but no fans would turn on. I pulled out the cpu, mobo, gpu cables and sata stuff and teplugged it in besides at the psu which i was trying to reach. i took out the front of the psu shroud and the repair shop somehow shoved cables in a tiny area that blocked it from pulling all the way off. I screwed around with that for a bit and put it back on. i left the cpu eps cable unplugged but when i tried to power it on it stayed on somehow but no output. the gpu fans were maxed out though. I tried turning it off and plugging in cpu eps power but it would flash on then off. i tried clear cmos as the code 00 said to reseat cpu which i already did and cleared cmos and they changed nothing. the psu should have enough power of 70 watts to keep it powered and it checked the voltages fine along with the grounds. i do not know what could be happening and this is really weird. someone please help me. the x570 also requires an 8 pin and 4 pin eps but it should go fine with a 8pin only.
  3. I see that it can in theory supply enough, but will it boot and maybe allow slight overclocks? Are there any safe adapter I could use to run another 4 pin eps?
  4. I recently bought an ASROCK X570 Taichi, it seems like a great board and I assumed it will run and oc with one 8-pin EPS not the 8 and the 4. Is this true? Is there another adapters that are safe?
  5. Ok. It was more of a rhetorical question lol! I'm using that 2080 anyways. I was planning on getting rid of the PSU as it is suspicious. With CPU, MOBO and PSU I think I should be safe.
  6. I was planning on getting rid of everything besides the storage, gpu and cooling. Do you think these would be ok? The 6th gen had the BCLK multipler disconnected from PCIE. I really don't want to not use my new 800 dollar GPU
  7. I did use the BCLK method on the MSI motherboard, but I never overclocked on the Dell motherboard which I have had for the majority of the time I have used the computer. I did have an unofficial BIOS. Sorry about it being hard to follow, but why would it only fry the mobo the first time then fry the cpu and mobo this time only when I shut it down. That's a good idea, but I thought it would last a bit longer with the BIOS. The dell mobo came with the CPU.
  8. I'm going to start this with the issue then dive onto the history. My computer is dead after I had pulled out the mobo and etc for maintenence, but I had shut it down before, it was not mistreated or anything while taken out. At first glance, it would be a motherboard issue because the power supply can turn on and I would atleast get 1 sign of life if the cpu or ram was broken, but when connected to the motherboard, the PSU will not turn on. Now time for the history, I had my good motherboard die about 2 months ago except that time I had worked on it the day before and all the sudden the video went out and it slowly died before I had to kill it. I went to this current Dell motherboard when it died and now it's dead. I am now beleiving my PSU is the issue as 2 motherboards is alot to kill in 2 months, however the PSU will turn on when jumped and fans will, but it will not turn on when not jumped. I had examined the CPU underside and I beleived I may have seen some new marks I do not remember but I hadn't taken a good look. There were 2 darker spots, and it was curved, despite saying the temp was under control. I have Windows 10 Home 64-bit (Most recent edition I beleive) activated with a company activator I found for free on the interwebs. I have an i5-6400 (Overclocked to 4.4ghz at 1.3-1.4 volts on the MSI board), MSI Z170A Sli Plus for the first board that died (with a OC bios) and I was just using a dell prebuilt motherboard, I use 16gb of 3000mhz Vengeance RGB Pro, 500GB Samsung 860 EVO, 1TB WD Blue and a Thermaltake Smart M 750W (Rated a D on the PSU Tier List) and a Corsair 460X case. I do not remember the BIOS for the Dell or MSI, besides for MSI it was a OC Bios not from MSI but had worked for 9 months+. I do not remember any error messages before the issue and when it happened it just died. Thank you in advance and I can supply any photos you need.
  9. It wouldn’t make sense why it would bend like that. Package temps were 50-70 for a while and it hit 100 C for prolly a total of 30 mins ever. It was perfectly clean too. It was from a dell prebuilt bought new.
  10. I don’t really know? Maybe heat like other people said, I will probably never know. Ok good to know about the electrical burn about motherboard short. I don’t see why it would short and I smelt nothing when it happened. Also the package was at 50-60 degrees. I can’t check core values due to the BIOS. Before I used this cooler, it hit 70 celsius max, but I had ran stuff for a bit and it hit 95 degrees which was bad but not for very long and not a lot of. I don’t see why the BIOS would randomly cause a forever shut off. It had been loaded for 7 months. Also we’re those clocks too high along with the voltages? Do you guys think it would be safe to use the same hardware besides CPU and Motherboard? I was worried something else caused the demise of the motherboard.
  11. So on Friday Morning I was on my computer when it randomly shut off. I tried turning it back on and it would not turn back on. I tested the PSU, RAM and CPU and these things all worked. I cannot figure out why it died, but I am suspecting the motherboard broke. I do not know why it would die randomly, as it’s a Z170 board from MSI and ran perfectly fine. I got no warning, it just died and wouldn’t come back on. I did have a special BIOS to overclock my i5-6400 and it was overclocked to 4.4ghz and i think it had 1.3-1.4 volts. I also opened my computer the night before. It doesn’t have any odd marks that so can tell besides these brownish marks that have been there since I got it used. The socket pins look fine and the ram slots look fine. The CPU did have odd discoloration and bending on the pad but this would not explain why it worked on another mobo. The pictures attached are of the CPU. I also checked the VRMs and the Chipsets and they all looked fine. Does anyone know fixes for the motherboard I could try, because I cannot find a fix, or atleast is there a way I can figure out why it died because I don’t want to load it up with new hardware and have it die. Thanks in advance and have a nice day.
×