Askingcarpet

Just now, Streetguru said:

Well locked and on a dead platform, With AM4 you have the option of an 8 core 2700 or even Ryzen 3 in the future. Supposed to be supported until 2020

I know, but if i was able to upgrade my cpu to an 8 core in just 2 years i wouldn't have an i3 2120 or live here. Hopefully that makes sense lol

2 minutes ago, Canada EH said:

and into a sanctuary city.

LOL

 

What kind of online stores are there in Uruguay?

 

 

 

Hope i didn't mess everything up. The restrictions are for foreign online shipping. As our shitty 3rd world 3,4 million people country (unsurprisingly) has a fckin terrible tech industry and most major tech companies have no official presence here, they restrict foreign purchases so you're forced to buy locally at stupid prices. Just imagine that what you guys call "extremely inflated gpu prices" right now are literally still cheaper than regular prices here. $300 for a 1050ti is the norm actually. I want to leave so much

1 minute ago, Streetguru said:

We have to smuggle you into the US, to a micro center.

Overall going to a 4c/4t locked CPU isn't worth it IMO

Locked or not isn't a problem tbh. Even if i bought a ryzen, i wouldn't overclock at all. I just don't like the idea.

Btw i have been to the us, which is where i bought my 750ti and these stupid regulations and insane prices are what made me decide i'm doing all i can to move to the US after graduating from college (haven't started yet unluckily)

4 minutes ago, Streetguru said:

Then ya idea, I assume you would buy the parts locally, in import from the best place?

The parts would be fine, they're in boxes, it's not like you'd be trying to ship a pre-built PC.

I wish it was that simple. You have a limit of 4 shipments a year (from outside the country), and each shipment can't cost over $200, or a 60% tax applies. Also, the shipping cost is a minimum of $20 and $10 in import fees. I'd have to blow 3 shipments and about $60 in import fees and shipping costs

1 minute ago, Canada EH said:

if the facebook member is well known it shouldnt be an issue.

I've purchased from reputable forum members on different forums with no issue at all, but I used Paypal to his email and never use Friends and Family as paypal payment to strangers. I just payed the extra bit for the difference.

We do have a local payment system that's 100% safe and is pretty much like paypal, except it has physical buildings where you can make the transaction with cash if you want to. It's what most people use

4 minutes ago, JDE said:

What about the i3 8100 and Z370?

Locally, the i3 costs $175 and the mobo $200. Already exceeds my budget without ram. From the US, again, gotta wait 3 months

2 minutes ago, Streetguru said:

Just buy Ryzen so you actually have an upgrade path. No idea on pricing wherever you are. just be sure to get the fastest cheaper RAM you can. Could also potentially do the R5 2400G
 

PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kk9fr6
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kk9fr6/by_merchant/

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($99.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard  ($74.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2800 Memory  ($91.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $266.46
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-03-11 19:46 EDT-0400

I could do that, but as i said above, buying from the US would take me 3 months (My cousin went to the US to visit his family) and there's no guarantee my components will arrive safe and sound. This pc i have already had its case damaged thanks to inconsiderate luggage handlers.

6 minutes ago, Canada EH said:

What country?

Does seller offer Paypal payment?

 

 

Uruguay, and i don't know but that's not really an issue 

So, first of all, sorry if i've been making too many threads. After i fixed my current mobo's Bios issue (a b75m-d3h), it's been working great, but i've still been looking for upgrade options as my i3 2120 is definitely limiting my 750ti in some games, and the overall experience is pretty bad. And i came across this dude on a facebook group (pretty much half of the 20k people group had bought from him, apparently he has a tech store) who offered me a second hand i5 6400, second hand asrock h110m and 2 new 4gb sticks of ddr4 for around $315 plus my current mobo, cpu and ram. Thing is, in my country, used i5 6400 is around $200, the ram kit is worth around $100 and a new h110m costs $80 at the very least (haven't seen any second hand for sale). Is there any real danger of buying a second hand cpu from 2-3 years ago? same for the mobo. And how good is the cpu? My other option is buying a ryzen 3 2200g from the US but that would take around 3 months and i don't know if it'd be as good. thanks in advance

7 hours ago, Mat_95 said:

Cause it's X79, the 3820 that used to be in it was sandy bridge-E and the 4930K I replaced it with is ivy bridge-E based. Not actually Haswell, though if it were; I'd be a happy guy, seeing as it's a 6 core, 12 thread beaut. 

Bit of a lame name maybe, naming it after its cpu's generation (mostly my fiancées' idea oddly) but I'm shit with naming anything. (for example my dead HD 6990 is merely called Antilles) 

Definitely didn't know about SB-E or IB-E. thanks for shedding some knowledge on me.

On 3/6/2018 at 10:17 AM, Mat_95 said:

Possible; it’s using a core2 extreme x9100 with a mobility HD 3870 x2 (that in itself makes me think of why, it’s cooled by it’s two fans) not much can be done besides thermal paste without chassis mods I guess? 

 

Ive pretty much already explained that stuff

Hey i know it's not really related to anything but theres something thats fking killing me. Why's your pc's name Ivy if it's a haswell build?

2 hours ago, Mat_95 said:

If you’re dead set on upgrading soon anyway; I’d be happy to have the non needed bits If/when you upgrade? (Wanting to teach my little brothers and fiancée some stuff and finally get a home pc, as my main rig isn’t even in my house) and my laptop is overheating like crazy and is from 2008 haha.

 

id suggest at least attempting what I’ve suggested having it still failing that; I’m happy to take the dying bits (possibly dying) from you when you sort out the upgrading  

And as for this, i'd recommend you try an a320m with the new r3 2200g which is a very good budget option

thanks to everyone, i'm up and running and won't upgrade yet. Cheers

17 minutes ago, done12many2 said:

 

Okay, the following confused me a bit.  

 

 

 

Anyways, remove all of your RAM except for one stick.  Disconnect everything from the motherboard to include GPU if you have an iGPU available.  Take it all the way down to just the CPU, motherboard, PSU, 1 stick of RAM and your keyboard.  Try it and if it doesn't work, clear CMOS again with everything disconnected and try again.  

OH BOY OH BOY I DID THAT AND I WAS ABLE TO GET TO THE BIOS RECOVERY SCREEN SO IT'S WORKING NOW. THANKS A FCKTON I'VE BEEN TRYING TO FIX THIS FOR A MONTH

Just now, done12many2 said:

 

Okay, the following confused me a bit.  

 

 

 

Anyways, remove all of your RAM except for one stick.  Disconnect everything from the motherboard to include GPU if you have an iGPU available.  Take it all the way down to just the CPU, motherboard, PSU, 1 stick of RAM and your keyboard.  Try it and if it doesn't work, clear CMOS again with everything disconnected and try again.  

i might try that, but i think i may have shorted the backup bios chip while it was turned off (i accidentally poked between 2 pins thinking it was the M bios but instantly removed the short) still, im gonna do that

2 minutes ago, done12many2 said:

@Askingcarpet  Can you get into the OS?

not at all. That's the main reason i'm trying to access bios

23 minutes ago, Mat_95 said:

Glad that works out either way, don’t think my mobo has dual bios but eh; I’ve not had issues like that (yet) haha. But yeah; it sounds right, lets hope it works

Welp, it did not. I guess it's as dead as abe lincoln :^(

Just now, Mat_95 said:

I guess, but yeah; shorting our things for bios access sure sounds weird, haha.

 

anyway; let me know how that goes

Really isn't, as my board has a dual uefi bios, if one of the bios doesn't work, it uses the backup, and shorting the chip makes it think the main bios is corrupted/broken

Just now, Mat_95 said:

Sounds about right; feel free to keep me updated with what happens, just be careful

Hey, can't kill something that's dead can you?

39 minutes ago, Mat_95 said:

Booting could also be your graphics but then; is it blank from the instant it’s turned on? No boot display at all?, 

 

When clearing the CMOS, did you completely disconnect the power to the pc? (Found this on another forum; it should generate an error and let you into the bios etc) 

 

there also may may be a bios update etc?, 

 

with some of that particular gigabyte model etc, there is a bootloop bios issue and it’s apparently fixable (YouTube videos to exist for it, if you wanna look for that stuff) 

I'm looking into that, and watching videos and apparently i have to short out the main bios chip so it boots into the backup

Just now, Mat_95 said:

That seems rather like a failing mobo; however I guess you’ve looked into your mobos bios access and such?, how long has it been going on? 

The boot problems? a month

Not being able to access BIOS? Since i bought it in 2011

Alright, so i've made a couple threads before because my pc would just black screen after POST with absolutely no way to make it boot, and now i'm trying to change some settings or whatever i can from the BIOS to make it boot again (I'm pretty much discarding bad hard drive as the cause of my issue as i actually got it to boot once or twice and everything worked fine, and i didn't experience any data loss/slowdowns/crashes. As of now i think it's a mobo issue) but the bios is inaccessible, i've tried both the regular and numpad "del" key (i have a gigabyte b75m-d3h so that's the key) and f1-12 both holding it down or pressing repeatedly, clearing CMOS with a screwdriver, removing the battery for 10 minutes then putting it back again, disconnecting the hard drive, changed my SATA cable, reseated my ram, but literally nothing makes it boot or enter bios/boot menu.

Should i just call it quits and buy the new motherboard? I was planning to upgrade the platform already but i wanted to hold on to this one as long as i could. Thanks in advance

57 minutes ago, NvidiaIntelAMDLoveTriangle said:

That's something I wish to know as well. My guess is that H310 and B360 motherboards will be launched in April.

Yeah i've seen some news outlets say march, some just q1 2018 but nothing really official

Is there any official announcement on when H310M or whatever they name low-end coffee lake boards is dropping? i was planning to get a b250m with a g4560 and apparently the 8100 is much better, but there are no budget options for coffee lake (especially considering here, h110m are the same price they sell for in US but z370 are about twice as much)

17 hours ago, airdeano said:

1. possibly, depends on what platform you have currently and what you are going to.
2. kinda big debate, but i always keep the BIOS/UEFI up-to-date with no ills.
3. use the manufacturers drivers. OS drivers can be generic and cause issues thought to be hardware rather than generic drivers.
4. usually on first boot (UEFI) using the default settings and setting drive preference is easy enough.
5. prolly, but lots of unknowns right now.

nope, best to use another (new/use) HDD and use the original as a backup (old files). too easy to mess up the install and unforgettably format/partition old drive and lose all your written data.

I literally don't have any other hdd i could use and i would have to buy a new 2tb drive just for that which i'm definitely not doing because i can't afford to.

7 minutes ago, Vernw3 said:

partiton the drive put your games on the partition and wipe only the windows install 

Again, isn't it possible to clean install without losing personal files? I remember doing just that while first installing, but i don't really know how to do it

2 minutes ago, Jamiec1130 said:

If you're doing a platform change, you should always do a clean install of Windows. It'll save a lot of hassle and headache. 

Wiping the drive is a total headache. I have around a terabyte of games to download on a 3mb/s connection. I did see an option the other day that was to clean install windows without losing any of my files, which is how i actually upgraded from win7 to win10 and kept every single game/file. Btw, what would happen if i don't clean install?