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Askingcarpet

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Posts posted by Askingcarpet


  1. 2 minutes ago, seon123 said:

    Please avoid spreading misinformation. If you have no idea what you're talking about, it's often best not to.

    The 2017 CX is quite decent. LLC resonant primary, DC-DC and a rifle bearing fan. Unlike a lot of EVGA's stuff, which often uses sleeve bearing fans and group regulation on the low-mid range.

    That's a great way to just waste time. PCPP's calculator overestimates, and when a part doesn't have a number for the power draw, it assumes it's 0W. Particularly the motherboard and RAM power draw is exaggurated.

    It's more than fine. Just make sure the GPU only needs a single PCI-e 8 pin to work. Here's the power draw of the XFX Fatboy. The power draw goes up to about 230W, so accounting for the rest of the system, expect around 300W draw from the PSU under a gaming load.

     

    Thanks a lot for the well-made answer man. Appreciate it

    Just to be sure, if i were to purchase a 590 instead, i'd be plenty fine right? The recommended PSU is 500w for both the 590 and 580 but i'd heard it drew less power being a different, more efficient die, but you seem like you would know more than me about that lol.


  2. 1 hour ago, mok said:

    it will work - but youre right at the upper limit of the PSU with a RX580

    input your specs into pcpartpicker to estimate wattage and everything looked fine until you mentioned the 5 case fans.

    i personally, am not comfortable with you running a 450W PSU - i would recommend upgrading

    With all that said i know im completely missing the whole point about AC to DC conversion - so im hoping someone can add to my comment

     

    also a little blown away at how high the RX580's TDP is rated at - higher than my evga gtx 1080

     

    Yeah that's why i asked about the 590, since it seems to be a more efficient chip, and i can also underclock/undervolt it to make it draw less power if needed

    Also yeah, the 220v is definitely a factor. According to corsair themselves, the efficiency on 220v is like 9 or 10% higher at all loads compared to 110v meaning i can safely squeeze more power out of it than you could in the US.


  3. So i'm planning to finally upgrade the last component of my build, the good old 750ti, and i was thinking about either the 570 or the 580. I've seen that the 580 recommends a 500w psu, but i know they usually exaggerate the ratings to escape liability. My system has 2 7200rpm hard drives, an i3 8100, 8gb of ddr4 2400mhz and 5 case fans on a corsair CX450, and was wondering if it'd work safely, or if i need to underclock it a little to make it more stable.
    As a sidenote, where i live we use 220v AC, which as far as i know, means the efficiency of the PSU will be higher compared to 110v.

    Also, i would love to know if the 590 could run as well, since i can also afford it and seems to be better in terms of efficiency as it is a newer chip

    Thanks in advance


  4. 2 minutes ago, kelvinhall05 said:

    Not sure why it's happening, but I'd just nuke the drives and reinstall Windows.

     

    You could also give Linux a shot.

    One would mean reinstalling over 500gb of games on a 6mb/s connection which would be a bit short of an eternity

    The other one would mean basically giving up most of my games and a $100 windows license.

    Might as well wait a bit to see if anything else is possible, back up my games and give reinstalling windows a shot anyways. 

    By the way, isn't there any way to use system recovery without the settings app? Like at startup or something?


  5. Sorry for the vague title, but i don't think i can convey such a specific and unrelated set of problems with a specific title

    All of this started absolutely out of nowhere. Not after installing an update, or a program, or anything. I literally turned on my pc and they were there. I also haven't downloaded basically anything outside of steam and official websites, so i highly doubt it's malware (the build is 3 months old and windows defender has found no threats whatsoever)

     

    First thing, almost none of the system apps are working. Settings just freezes as soon as i click on something, control panel is empty, services.msc just opens and freezes as well, among others.

    This means i cannot use a recovery point or attempt to revert any windows updates

    The other problem is that none of my internet browsers work. Firefox and edge will just stay on the home page, as if they were loading the url i input, but never loading. This means i cannot download anything to it, which reduces my options. 

     

    I'm completely dumbfounded as to why this is happening. Nothing is quite wrong. Both of my HDDs seem to be in working order and i have no problem writing or reading in either. 

    I've got an i3 8100 with 8gb of 2400hz ddr4, so it's not that the hardware itself is slow. All of my games and apps load regularly with no slowness whatsoever, just the system apps. 

    I've already tried deleting my temp files, updating windows when settings finally loaded after like 30 minutes, turning it off and disconnecting it for around 20 minutes, disconnecting and reconnecting the hard drives, change the RAM slots, etc. 

    Is there anything i can do? I REALLY don't want to already have to reinstall windows on a 3 month old build.

    Thanks in advance


  6. 33 minutes ago, Alexsolo said:

    You have to buy another key. Digital licenses (or OEM licenses such as your old Windows 7) are tied to the original motherboard and have a limited number of reactivations allowed.

    Once this maximum is reached you need to purchase a new key.

     

    I would suggest buying a genuine retail key from the Microsoft website and tying it to your microsoft account. This way it'll always activate your copy of Windows, so long that you log into the account under the profile.

     

    Here's Linus running into the same issue:

     

    I did have a retail copy, which i upgraded to windows 10 in 2016, then linked to my account and it got transformed into a "digital license" which i could transfer. Except now i can't, and the support guys just told me i 100% need a key to reactivate or buy a new one. If this is seriously how they treat this subject then i'll just either pirate it or buy a $10 key from ebay.


  7. 30 minutes ago, Slottr said:

    Probably locked to that motherboard you had

    You can most likely just talk to MS support and they'll help you

     

    Might also be able to see where it is locked to through your ms account

    Both times i contacted the support they just kinda asked for the key, and when i told them i didnt have it since it's been 9 years since i bought it, they just said i'd have to buy a new one


  8. So just yesterday I finished rebuilding my PC (swapped everything but the hard drive and gpu) and added another hdd. I did a fresh install of windows on the new drive and when I tried to activate windows with my MS account it just said that it couldn't reactivate windows on this device. I also tried to boot windows on the old drive but the license seems to be gone there too.

    I had upgraded from a retail windows 7 to windows 10 around 2016 and I don't have the win7 key since I bought the computer like 9 years ago. Contacted support twice and all they said was that if I didn't have the key I'd have to buy another one. Any ideas on how to solve this?


  9. 2 minutes ago, Crunchy Dragon said:

    I've never heard of them at all, one of the reasons I wouldn't trust them.

     

    I would say go for it, and make a profit if you don't like it.

    maybe i will. Still, i'm gonna check on other sellers (this one and a couple more have a great reputation in the sales group i'm in and have their own "stores") because i might just get a 1050ti for the same price

    thanks for the help though, it's like the 3rd time you solve one of my threads lol


  10. Just now, Crunchy Dragon said:

    Oh? I must've missed that.

     

    I don't particularly go for Zotac cards personally, PNY is kinda eh, and Palit I just don't like.

    Yeah but those cards are kinda known for at least being real. Outside from those brands you could just get one of those bios modified older cards or duds. i def would never buy from an unknown brand, which is why i asked about forsa. haven't heard of them outside very old cards


  11. 2 minutes ago, Crunchy Dragon said:

    Honestly, I wouldn't get a GPU from any brand outside of the main four: MSI, Gigabyte, Asus, EVGA.

     

    It looks like a fairly decent card, you can always sell it if you're not satisfied, right?

     

    One thing I would mention is that you will need an LGA 1155 board to use the i7-3770(going by your signature, you wouldn't be able to use it in your current rig).

    First off, i kinda agree, But what about zotac/pny/palit/xfx? i heard good things especially zotac since i own one

    Second, i definitely can. The b75m is a 3rd gen board that supports the 3770 with even the stock bios i obviously checked that lol


  12. 2 minutes ago, Streetguru said:

    I'd probably go for the i7 slot in option, doesn't the i5 end up costing more in that case?

    It does, but i also get ddr4 ram, less tdp and temps and all that, but in the end i might not even go for this combo as the ram appears to be a single 8gb ddr4 dimm. I'm asking the dude if he has any dual channel kit instead but if he doesn't he can forget it

    EDIT: He does but they're $20 more expensive. Is it worth it?


  13. Just now, Streetguru said:

    Well what kind of fps do you get in the games you play? Your GPU is also a bit of a limiting factor for 1080p at least.

    I'm on 900p and get for example 100% cpu usage in games like BO3, and even if i lower my settings my fps don't improve, battlefront 2 gives me crazy stuttering and popping, gta V, bf4 same story as BO3. Most games overall except kinda old ones give me 100% cpu usage and it runs at around 85C under load. Stuttering is pretty common too


  14. 2 minutes ago, Streetguru said:

    That website is worthless, the extra threads really help in some cases with 1%/.1% fps, If you do end up with a busted motherboard you could always replace it couldn't you?

     

    Technically yes i could, but i don't know how pricing/availability will be.

    Btw i didn't base that assumption off that site, i checked actual benchmark videos


  15. 1 minute ago, Streetguru said:

    It's just about having the option to upgrade, could happen 4 years from now.

    I understand. Again, buying from the US implies shipping costs, the chance of my stuff breaking and 3 months of wait. Buying the ryzen here is also impossible due to the costs.

    My main question was more like if the cpu was good overall, or compared to my 2120, if the mobo was good/reliable and if there were any dangers from buying a used processor/mobo. To be honest i think this combo is actually my best bet.

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