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Askingcarpet

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Everything posted by Askingcarpet

  1. Thanks a lot for the well-made answer man. Appreciate it Just to be sure, if i were to purchase a 590 instead, i'd be plenty fine right? The recommended PSU is 500w for both the 590 and 580 but i'd heard it drew less power being a different, more efficient die, but you seem like you would know more than me about that lol.
  2. Yeah that's why i asked about the 590, since it seems to be a more efficient chip, and i can also underclock/undervolt it to make it draw less power if needed Also yeah, the 220v is definitely a factor. According to corsair themselves, the efficiency on 220v is like 9 or 10% higher at all loads compared to 110v meaning i can safely squeeze more power out of it than you could in the US.
  3. I know the older ones had some serious issues but this one is the newest model. Also, i doubt i can just get a new one since they're kinda expensive here.
  4. So i'm planning to finally upgrade the last component of my build, the good old 750ti, and i was thinking about either the 570 or the 580. I've seen that the 580 recommends a 500w psu, but i know they usually exaggerate the ratings to escape liability. My system has 2 7200rpm hard drives, an i3 8100, 8gb of ddr4 2400mhz and 5 case fans on a corsair CX450, and was wondering if it'd work safely, or if i need to underclock it a little to make it more stable. As a sidenote, where i live we use 220v AC, which as far as i know, means the efficiency of the PSU will be higher compared to 110v. Also, i would love to know if the 590 could run as well, since i can also afford it and seems to be better in terms of efficiency as it is a newer chip Thanks in advance
  5. One would mean reinstalling over 500gb of games on a 6mb/s connection which would be a bit short of an eternity The other one would mean basically giving up most of my games and a $100 windows license. Might as well wait a bit to see if anything else is possible, back up my games and give reinstalling windows a shot anyways. By the way, isn't there any way to use system recovery without the settings app? Like at startup or something?
  6. Sorry for the vague title, but i don't think i can convey such a specific and unrelated set of problems with a specific title All of this started absolutely out of nowhere. Not after installing an update, or a program, or anything. I literally turned on my pc and they were there. I also haven't downloaded basically anything outside of steam and official websites, so i highly doubt it's malware (the build is 3 months old and windows defender has found no threats whatsoever) First thing, almost none of the system apps are working. Settings just freezes as soon as i click on something, control panel is empty, services.msc just opens and freezes as well, among others. This means i cannot use a recovery point or attempt to revert any windows updates The other problem is that none of my internet browsers work. Firefox and edge will just stay on the home page, as if they were loading the url i input, but never loading. This means i cannot download anything to it, which reduces my options. I'm completely dumbfounded as to why this is happening. Nothing is quite wrong. Both of my HDDs seem to be in working order and i have no problem writing or reading in either. I've got an i3 8100 with 8gb of 2400hz ddr4, so it's not that the hardware itself is slow. All of my games and apps load regularly with no slowness whatsoever, just the system apps. I've already tried deleting my temp files, updating windows when settings finally loaded after like 30 minutes, turning it off and disconnecting it for around 20 minutes, disconnecting and reconnecting the hard drives, change the RAM slots, etc. Is there anything i can do? I REALLY don't want to already have to reinstall windows on a 3 month old build. Thanks in advance
  7. I did have a retail copy, which i upgraded to windows 10 in 2016, then linked to my account and it got transformed into a "digital license" which i could transfer. Except now i can't, and the support guys just told me i 100% need a key to reactivate or buy a new one. If this is seriously how they treat this subject then i'll just either pirate it or buy a $10 key from ebay.
  8. Both times i contacted the support they just kinda asked for the key, and when i told them i didnt have it since it's been 9 years since i bought it, they just said i'd have to buy a new one
  9. So just yesterday I finished rebuilding my PC (swapped everything but the hard drive and gpu) and added another hdd. I did a fresh install of windows on the new drive and when I tried to activate windows with my MS account it just said that it couldn't reactivate windows on this device. I also tried to boot windows on the old drive but the license seems to be gone there too. I had upgraded from a retail windows 7 to windows 10 around 2016 and I don't have the win7 key since I bought the computer like 9 years ago. Contacted support twice and all they said was that if I didn't have the key I'd have to buy another one. Any ideas on how to solve this?
  10. maybe i will. Still, i'm gonna check on other sellers (this one and a couple more have a great reputation in the sales group i'm in and have their own "stores") because i might just get a 1050ti for the same price thanks for the help though, it's like the 3rd time you solve one of my threads lol
  11. Yeah but those cards are kinda known for at least being real. Outside from those brands you could just get one of those bios modified older cards or duds. i def would never buy from an unknown brand, which is why i asked about forsa. haven't heard of them outside very old cards
  12. First off, i kinda agree, But what about zotac/pny/palit/xfx? i heard good things especially zotac since i own one Second, i definitely can. The b75m is a 3rd gen board that supports the 3770 with even the stock bios i obviously checked that lol
  13. So, i'm getting a second hand i7 3770 and 1050 (both tested running) but i found out the gpu was forsa branded and i was wondering: Is forsa a brand to be trusted? should i get just the cpu and buy the gpu somewhere else?
  14. Did my research and definitely going dual channel. About as much difference as you said, which is a lot. Thanks for everything
  15. 2400 in fact. Again, is the difference between single 8gb vs 2x4gb worth the extra 20?
  16. It does, but i also get ddr4 ram, less tdp and temps and all that, but in the end i might not even go for this combo as the ram appears to be a single 8gb ddr4 dimm. I'm asking the dude if he has any dual channel kit instead but if he doesn't he can forget it EDIT: He does but they're $20 more expensive. Is it worth it?
  17. I'm on 900p and get for example 100% cpu usage in games like BO3, and even if i lower my settings my fps don't improve, battlefront 2 gives me crazy stuttering and popping, gta V, bf4 same story as BO3. Most games overall except kinda old ones give me 100% cpu usage and it runs at around 85C under load. Stuttering is pretty common too
  18. Not much of an upgrade from a 7 year old platform's 2nd lowest i3 2c/4t? That doesn't sound right
  19. Also, i'm talking about the locked 2600. The 2600k and 2700k aren't even available
  20. Technically yes i could, but i don't know how pricing/availability will be. Btw i didn't base that assumption off that site, i checked actual benchmark videos
  21. http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i7-2600-vs-Intel-Core-i5-6400 The 6400 performs better in games and has half the TDP. Also, my motherboard is 8 years old and i just fixed it by shorting the main bios with a clip so the backup bios would kick in. I wouldn't trust this mobo for the long run tbh
  22. I understand. Again, buying from the US implies shipping costs, the chance of my stuff breaking and 3 months of wait. Buying the ryzen here is also impossible due to the costs. My main question was more like if the cpu was good overall, or compared to my 2120, if the mobo was good/reliable and if there were any dangers from buying a used processor/mobo. To be honest i think this combo is actually my best bet.
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