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Ayame2846

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  • Posts

    14
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  • Gender
    Female

System

  • CPU
    11600K
  • Motherboard
    MSI MPG Z490 GAMING PLUS
  • RAM
    32GB Corsair Vengeance
  • GPU
    GTX 1080ti
  • Case
    Corsair 900D
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

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  1. As the title states, was playing a game and both monitors went black, sound remained and I checked event viewer system log to find 441 of the exact same error with identical timestamps, error as follows The description for Event ID 14 from source nvlddmkm cannot be found. Either the component that raises this event is not installed on your local computer or the installation is corrupted. You can install or repair the component on the local computer. If the event originated on another computer, the display information had to be saved with the event. The following information was included with the event: \Device\00000180 CMDre 00000009 00000ffc ffffffff 00000007 00ffffff The message resource is present but the message was not found in the message table It points to a driver ceasing to work/crash and recovering, I have tried DDU to clean the previous drivers (this has happened before but not to this magnitude) but to no avail, any pointers as to how to rectify? GPU is EVGA 1080ti
  2. I've been having this issue on and off for several months now, under completely varying circumstances, both under load and idle (sometimes multiple instances per day, sometimes going days or weeks without issue). The basic premise of my problem is that completely randomly my computer will let out a loud buzzing noise from the speakers/headset, often at full volume, I have tried reseating the RAM, MemTest (no errors). Because of the sporadic nature of the error I haven't yet tried individually testing each stick however. I have checked event viewer which seems to just be filled with generic errors/warnings. In said event viewer there is 1 critical error followed by a warning both in the "Kernal" source, Warning - Kernal-PnP (The driver \Driver\WudfRd failed to load for the device ROOT\WindowsHelloFaceSoftwareDriver\0000.) and Critical - Kernal-Power (The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly). The Kernal-Power I assume is caused when I have to hard shutdown the PC as it refuses to BSOD but there is no error/warning before that. Any help would be welcomed
  3. Hey, so recently my internet has been acting up, the connection on my end though, not the ISP, Basically, my regular speed is 355Mbps DL, 300 min, 50Mbps U, Upload has been unaffected but D has dropped to 110Mbps max and as low as 32, If I switch to Wifi my connection jumps to 200 D so I think "Bad dongle (usb-3 gigabit belkin ethernet adaptor)" I boot in safe mode with networking, wired connection I'm at full speed again, reboot out of safe mode and I'm at full speed for maybe a day on wired then it dies again, any ideas?
  4. Yes I've been made aware, I've ordered a small 4 input mixer which should do the trick.
  5. Hey, audio noob here, I've got a set of Logitech x530 5:1 speakers, they have no aux input, I'm using a 3x Female to 1x Male 3.5mm adaptor to take input from my tv but I'm trying to find out if a 3.5mm Y splitter is single direction (will the single point only act as an input or can it be reversed in conjunction with a female to female adaptor) I'm trying to have the speakers take 2x 3.5mm inputs but every 2x Male to 1x Female adaptors I find just seem to be mic & headset combo cables, which I don't think work?, can someone clarify things for me here, I'm probably being an idiot.
  6. As the title somewhat states, I have a set of Logitech Z506 surround speakers, I have them directly fed from my TV as my laptop isn't a permanent feature, currently I'm just splitting into them via 3.5mm jack on the laptop and the buzzing is driving me insane, is there anything anyone can recommend around the £100-150 price point to solve this, I'm a newbie when it comes to audio so don't want to purchase something which is total garbage and won't cure the problem. Thanks in advance.
  7. Fan curve can't be changed, even in Linus' review of it on the channel his was running hotter, 90c+ under full load, I'll be stripping it down and applying Kryonaut and replacing pads to see if that helps but I think under 80c is a bit optimistic under 100% load for this thing.
  8. It seems like it is and that was my first thought but its keeping the same temps, some even lower than usual, today it has only been maxing at 86c, I think the highest I've ever seen it over the duration of owning it was 92 and that was at a LAN party with friends and it still held up so I don't know.
  9. "When I close the lid" is set to "Do nothing" "choose when the PC sleeps" is also set to never, I had it running for 6+ hours last night fine but I turned it on today when I got home, played for maybe 45 minutes and it just shut off, approximately around the same time it happened during my lunch break yesterday.
  10. Hey, I've had this laptop for several months now without any real issues other than the screen being a bit too small for when I'm at home so I bought a monitor to use with it (144hz 1080p). I have the lid closed, bottom "flap" off to give adequate cooling while in use. Usually I see around 80-85c when under load and playing Path of Exile for several hours at a time with no issues at all but over the past few days since I've been using this setup my laptop has turned off approximately around the same time every day, I have a temp overlay in game which shows the CPU and GPU are sat around the normal temp for my experience, it will turn off as though I have put it to sleep, when I press the power button again everything I've had open is still there including my game. I've checked all the power plans, everything is set to never turn off etc, sounds like (and i thought too) that its overheating but given the temps are normal or somewhat lower than when I've been using it from buying it new it doesn't make sense, the issue has only just started since I got the monitor but why? Any help would be appreciated.
  11. The FN+F6 only seems to blacken it for screensaving purposes I suppose, FN+F9 (the other combo) only gives the "display mode" options. This is what I'm doing as of now, its only 4 screws but still a little inconvenient.
  12. Hey guys/girls, I have an Asus Zephyrus M (GM501, 1070 model), I bought a 27" 144hz monitor to use with it, Is there a way to turn off the laptop display while the lid is open (due to the cooling "flap" only being open when the lid is open) I've tried the usual "show on 2nd display only" but the laptop is reaching 98/99c on both cpu and gpu when it has usually only hovered around 80/85 under load. I was wondering if there was a way of completely disabling the built in display completely when the lid is open and using an external monitor or am I destined to have to just remove the flap to give adequate cooling when closed?
  13. If ever in doubt and you are visiting an actual store then do as much pre-purchase verification as possible, ask to have a look at the item, if even the littlest of thing looks "off" then request for it to be verified in front of you, with bigger ticket items the employees will usually go that extra bit to move the item on, be wary if they state they don't have a way to test the item (this doesn't always mean it hasn't been tested as there are company stock transfers that happen weekly) but request a signed statement on the reverse of your receipt, initialled, full name and signed (pref by a manager or spv) stating that you can return the item IF the item doesn't work, when selling most hardware items they note the serial numbers to avoid swap outs. If they refuse that then just go somewhere else as getting a refund for faulty goods even if you the customer can prove there is a fault will still be a lengthy process as policy is to replace before refund which can ultimately take weeks. If i ever buy from them now its small things such as older games I can't get anywhere else. EDIT: They accept all board partners for cards though I'd advise moving your items on via your own means as what you will be offered will be silly compared to what you can get for it privately, its the company's business model, rip off the customer and make money
  14. I used to work for CeX here in one of the Northern Ireland branches as an Asst Manager, our policy was to test all computer hardware, despite this being policy most stores are not equipped with sufficient test benches to test anything more than hard drives, SD storage etc, I roamed around several of our stores and it was the same issue "if it looks fine then take it in" That applied to ram and CPU's also, even some stores going as far as having computer illiterate employees "taking the customers word" for what the item was (often ending up with buy-in orders) , I would say stay clear of them as I left them due to shady business practices and not feeling morally right screwing over people. P.S. GL getting refunds from them, its the biggest headache of all.
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