Coolday

No

hdr10 is a standard for HDR in general.
hdr400 is a substandard from VESA to specify maximum of 400 nits
 
Better to look at what monitor/screen you use now and compare it spec wise to one you're looking at.. 400 still isn't a lot of brightness for HDR.

Check out this article that describes the difference between the two:
Not all HDR is created equal!

The biggest problem with HDR400 /600/ etc, is that they base the standard on 'peak' brightness rather than 'real scene' or full field brightness. As such u can get 10 different HDR400 displays and they will all behave differently in real world use.
 
hence its best to check reviews (real tested reviews, not subjective opinion or 'overviews')

HDR10 is the overall Vesa CTA display standard while HDR400 indicates it is a HDR10 compatible display at 400 nits. Asking if you should upgrade from HDR10 to HDR400/600/1000 and so on is like asking if you should "upgrade from WiFi to 802.11ax." You're comparing an overall standard to a very specific slice within that standard.

definitely a PSU that I would be comfortable with. Quality design, more than enough watts.

The GPU itself appears to draw about 225 watts at load and doesn't suffer from any nasty power spikes. A quality 550 or 650 watt PSU will be able to handle it. https://wccftech.com/review/amd-radeon-rx-6800-xt-radeon-rx-6800-16-gb-graphics-cards-review-heres-big-navi/15/
 
Are you building a new system? what's your budget and country?
any quality power supply can handle dual 8 pin connectors off the same cable.

Ive done the research and some satellite feeds are not encrypted. So yeah, with the right dish and equipment you can get free Satellite TV service even in the US. It just wont be any of the big pay networks. 

Unless your not happy with the build, keep it, upgrade when you hit a roadblock. 

I personally wouldn't.
The 5800X has about  ~15% performance improvement.
I personally would upgrade the graphics card first, though you might not need to (I don't know)

No, only if you misuse it. And even that will be hard to do. 

Deathadder v2 is a pretty alright fps mouse and its definaltey significantly better for fps games and claw grip.

Both mice are great for games, but I'd say go for the DA V2.
 
If you're not sure about the Naga Pro, then it's probably not the mouse for you. It's an extremely expensive mouse for people looking for a very specific combination of features.

Hey, I just got my Razer Naga Pro. 
 
For me, it's most comfortable in a fingertip grip, but palm grip is pretty comfortable too. Definitely NOT a claw grip mouse unless you have massive hands.
 
For reference my hand is 7" long and 4" wide, using this guide.

I dont think thts posisble.
The mouse just reports movements over the USB connection. It does not know how much it needs to move for that.

You need to either look in the tech specs, and if its not there open up the mouse and see what sensor is used, etc. Not an easy task for most.

You can use a Bluetooth transmitter, but be warned: Latency and sound quality might not what you expect.

(This is not a recommendation, just some random product)
https://www.amazon.ca/Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-TaoTronics-Simultaneously/dp/B013ULOP10/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=bluetooth+transmitter&qid=1598647189&s=electronics&sr=1-4

It has to be one that transmits (and optionally receives as well). I have a similar product to that from Aukey but it only receives Bluetooth signals. Which is why I use it in car.
 
Since you want the signal from your sound card to be transmitted to your wireless headphones via Bluetooth, a receiver will not work 

Then you would want something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/TaoTronics-Wireless-Transmitter-Functionality-Bluetooth/dp/B01IVM84A6/ref=asc_df_B01IVM84A6/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292939588547&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=382692337000765612&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1001962&hvtargid=pla-491598487566&psc=1
 
to transmit the audio signal from your sound card via Bluetooth. 

And if you have a crappy Bluetooth module on your computer/ phone, that figure would be even smaller. 

On a cheap pair of headphones like that, easily 

Well if you're 20 feet away from your device, yeah it'll start cutting out. Especially if there's walls in the way 

never mind its $600

mainly marketing gimmiks 

Get good stereo headphones instead. 7.1 or 5.1 in headphones is mostly a joke.

try the dolby dimension headphones they are wireless ,and have few dolby exrtas too....