BobVonBob

That text pretty clearly includes all advertisement. Twitch wants nobody to be making money on Twitch without taking their cut. Creating a hostile environment for your creators wallets when competitors are rapidly poaching them because of these exact decisions is a bold strategy.

The CV650 has attached cables. You can't replace them. If you want custom cables your options are cable extensions or buying a new modular power supply.

What will your sister be doing with this laptop? It's possible a gaming laptop with a GPU is the wrong choice. If she's just doing note taking or word processing one with a touchscreen, better battery life, or even just a cheaper laptop could be the right choice. Remember a budget is a limit, not a goal. If nothing else, I think most gaming laptops are super ugly, which is reason enough to avoid them in my books.

Does it happen if you use an incognito window or turn off any browser extensions? I tried reproducing this and couldn't get anything similar to happen in Firefox (113.0.2), Chrome (114.0.5735.90), or Brave (1.52.117, Chromium 114.0.5735.90). I tried using autocorrect in a post, a status update, a signature, and the "about me" section of the profile and nothing changed color.

Technically yes. Practically no. For more information, see this article by Rod Smith on why you can do it, but you shouldn't: https://www.rodsbooks.com/gdisk/hybrid.html

I'm pretty sure SDDR4 doesn't exist either. All I could find on "SDDR4" were some Nvidia GT 1030 videos and ebay listings where I think someone was trying to extrapolate from GDDR5 and came up with SDDR4 to refer to the DDR4 version instead of just calling it DDR4. SDRAM (Synchronous Dynamic Random Access Memory) is a kind of RAM architecture, and DDR SDRAM is a type of SDRAM which has been the standard RAM type in computers for the last 20 years or so. There are other types of SDRAM like RDRAM or SGRAM, but they're irrelevant to consumers. DDR4 is DDR4 SDRAM, they're the exact same thing. The only difference is one company decided not to put "SDRAM" in the product name.

Many devices don't work properly when absolutely nothing is connected to the data lines. You can short the data lines together and get minimal current. Not ideal, but functional. Jank solution: USB audio dongles with a charging passthrough are power-only with very few exceptions. You can use one of those if you don't want to chop a cable or pay the paranoia tax on purpose-built devices (or just use your own charger/power bank and cable). It also sits between your phone and the cable instead of the port and the cable, so it could prevent an attack from a malicious cable instead of just a malicious port. (Plus, bonus headphone jack. Return to the glory days of 2016 when your headphones didn't randomly drop signal.)

First, any gcode to SVG/DXF converter will just take every move from the gcode and turn it into a line. It's not actually an SVG, just an SVG rendering of the gcode moves, so it's not going to scale up well. Probably not a huge issue. Second, this means your gcode probably needs to be a single outer shell, and it may or may not actually result in a closed shape. As for the code: The biggest problem, ChatGPT didn't actually do anything to turn gcode into SVG. It's telling you to get an OpenSCAD script that turns gcode into svg, then it will run that. The layer detection only works if the gcode has layer comments and they start with ";LAYER:". I think that's Cura's format, so make sure you use Cura or a Cura derivative. Not necessarily a problem, but a hassle for you. It doesn't pad the layer names with 0's, so sorting isn't going to play nice. (e.g. layer_199.svg layer_2.svg layer_20.svg)

You do?

The launch dusted Port Isabel, with a population of more than 5,000. Blowing (warning: guesstimate) 50 tons of concrete and dirt into the air definitely affected populated areas, even if you dismiss those five people.

The best part of this drive was it was SATA I, a whole 150 MB/s theoretical. The LTT video on it: Even if it did exist, RAM drives don't make sense. The risk of data loss is huge so you can't store anything important and the applications you mentioned like large games or page files either wouldn't fit or you wouldn't see a benefit. How often do you really run low on RAM and need a page file? And for games, past a certain point games don't load faster, assuming you can even fit a large game on your probably 16 or 32 GB of RAM. Just look at SATA vs NVMe comparisons, most games load at most 10% faster despite the massive speed difference because the rest of the system has become the bottleneck.

I'd check the settings on your projector. The setting might be named something like "rear projection", "invert", or "flip". If there isn't an option for something like that, UltraMon can flip the screen or an application. However, it costs $40 USD. Edit: If the projector doesn't have horizontal mirroring but it does have vertical mirroring for ceiling mounting you could turn that on and rotate the display by 180 degrees in Windows. It's jank but it will effectively result in a horizontally mirrored screen.

Most objections to prebuilts are about value. They're almost always more expensive than buying the same parts and assembling it yourself. Occasionally they also come with non-standard components that mean you have no upgrade path besides the dumpster. There's also the bloatware that comes on a lot of big brand prebuilts (think Dell or HP). That actually does slow them down. It's gotten better in recent years though. If you're in the market for a PC, consider doing it yourself. It's never been easier to set up a PC. Windows installs are basically the same as clicking through a program installer, and the only other setup steps are turning on XMP/EXPO for Intel/AMD platforms in the BIOS, and installing graphics drivers. Windows (or Linux) will automatically install all of your other drivers. Besides graphics drivers I think I've installed two drivers in the last decade, one for a really badly made USB audio device, and one for a fingerprint scanner that technically wasn't supported by the OS.

It's intended as a precaution against a dying CPU fan, although it tends to clash with water cooling. You can turn off the check in the BIOS by changing Monitor > CPU FAN Speed to "Ignore".

Basically anything with those ports will be fine. A print server isn't exactly a strenuous application. It seems like the Banana Pi M2 doesn't have 4 USB ports? The Banana Pi M4, M5, and M6 do, but they're a bit above your desired price. A USB hub solves this, so it's really not a big issue. If you don't want a USB hub, the AML-S905X-CC/Le Potato from Libre Computer has 4 USB ports and fits in your price range. Not sure about European availability though.

I'm almost certain the click was the spring skipping. It's under compression while being turned, so it will skip around, which makes a clicking noise. A spring pen can make the same noise. You would need to be absolutely cranking on the screw to strip anything and (at least at this scale in relatively soft metal) stripping is a slow process. It would feel like you just kept turning the screw and eventually it would get easier. That's the feeling of stripping a screw. Not a crack.

MQA is the only one with the "special sauce" (read: proprietary encoding, magic audio dust, and lawyers) to make MQA mastered tracks. If MQA Ldt dies, the MQA format dies with it. Theoretically the company that scoops their IP if they go truly defunct could resurrect it, but why would they do that when they've seen it already fail once?

If it's not USB. I've found most wireless keyboards with a dongle work fine. If it makes sense in your build the easiest solution is probably opening up your computer and moving a fan to the CPU_FAN header. That should let you boot. If a CPU_FAN doesn't really make sense in your configuration (maybe a water cooler with a pump and fans attached to pump and chassis headers or something) then I also see a "USB Device Over Current" error on there. Try removing any other USB devices, including your mouse, and see if the keyboard starts working.

The "Fast 720p30" or "HQ 720p30 Surround" presets will be fine for your use case. H.265/VP9/AV1 have a little bit of a benefit, but your CPU doesn't have hardware decoding support for them and you aren't going to be playing back at a very high quality anyway. I'm sure the 3770 can handle 720p software decoding of those formats, but you won't get much benefit for a relatively large amount of extra power, which might cause distracting fan noise depending on your cooler. If you anticipate moving to a higher resolution screen some time soon you could use one of the higher resolution versions of those presets so you don't need to re-encode them twice. Unless you take a pickaxe to the audio settings the presets all default to perfectly reasonable values, so no worries about bad audio.

Not compatible. That's an original Rift (now known as Rift CV1) controller. It won't pair with your Quest, and even if it could it wouldn't track well because of the different placement of the tracking loop.

https://www.asus.com/motherboards-components/motherboards/prime/prime-a520m-k/helpdesk_cpu/?model2Name=PRIME-A520M-K Nope. Not compatible. A520 boards don't support 1000 or 2000 series Ryzen.

Total disaster for desk use, but great for lounging. A similar chair with wireless peripherals is my media center setup.

Do you have a cooler for this chip? If not this build is already dead in the water. You'll need an adapter that accepts external power (you need 75 watts available on the PCIe slot, and that Mini PCIe slot isn't going to do that) and another PSU, and even then that Mini PCIe slot is too slow for this to be worth it. I guarantee you can find a faster PC with actual PCIe slots for less money than it would take to badly shove a GPU into this one.

If you've lost, forgotten, or haven't enabled all of those account recovery options the account is gone. Nothing you can do. In the future perhaps write down your passwords or use a password manager.

GRUB should have been installed when you installed Ubuntu. I think that's the "boot menu" you mention here? I don't have a very clear picture of the problem you're having, but I'm guessing what you want to do is set up your BIOS to boot to GRUB, which I think is already happening, and then have GRUB handle choosing the OS. By default I believe GRUB boots to the last OS you booted to, but you can change it to always choose Ubuntu by editing /etc/default/grub and then running "sudo update-grub". The GRUB_DEFAULT variable will choose the default option in GRUB, either by number or by name, and that option will be launched automatically after GRUB_TIMEOUT seconds if you don't interact with the system. More info on configuring GRUB is here: https://www.howtogeek.com/196655/how-to-configure-the-grub2-boot-loaders-settings/