BobVonBob

You could effectively do "reference counting" on tabs and windows, basically your code would keep track of the tabs and windows as it opens and closes them. However, this is unreliable if a tab or window is opened/closed when your code doesn't expect it. Beyond that, perhaps computer vision, but that adds a lot of complexity. Maybe one of the many chromium based browsers has more predictable process usage? What is preventing you from using an extension?

The same place, but it isn't available on the main display.

When you get to three displays I think the easier way to manage them is to disable the ones you aren't using. You can select "Disconnect this display" on any display that isn't the main display. There's a third party tool called MultiMonitorTool from NirSoft that should let you save and easily switch screen layouts, but I've found it very unreliable when disabling and re-enabling screens.

I understood what you meant, but where are you trying to change the font that doesn't have a drop down menu? The only things I can think of that don't use drop down menus are dev tools like VS Code or the new Windows Terminal, and that's not a Windows 11 problem that's just how they do things.

Where are you trying to change a font that doesn't have a list to pick from?

In addition to the advice already in this thread: Get. A. Password. Manager. You can use different secure passwords for everything and you won't even need to remember them. You just need one master password (and it should be totally different to your hacked passwords. A passphrase generator would be good for this. If you need help remembering it, write it down somewhere until you have it memorized). Bitwarden has free and paid versions that sync across devices. 1Password is another good option which requires you to pay, but it's a bit more feature rich. It's going to suck to go through all of your accounts and change the passwords, but that's what you have to do if you want to prevent this cascade of stolen accounts in the future.

Task manager won't show the memory as being used until your program actually starts using it. The allocation is only a promise that you can use 1 GB of memory. The OS does this for exactly this scenario, a program allocates an excessive amount of memory but doesn't use it. If you open the more detailed memory monitoring in task manager by going to the "Performance" tab, you can check the "Committed" section, and that will increase by 1 GB when you run your program.

Given your description I don't see anything wrong. It's allocating a gigabyte of memory for unsigned long longs. What do you think it's supposed to do that it isn't doing? Some thoughts: Printing the value of a pointer, 'a' in this case, with %p tells you the location in memory the pointer is pointing at. Those "random numbers and letters" are the memory address. '*a' is the unsigned long long value stored at the memory address pointed to by 'a'. It's zero because you never assign anything to it and the OS is zeroing the memory it gives you from malloc. While this is generally true in modern operating systems, it should not be assumed when using malloc, calloc guarantees zeroed memory.

For internet browsing and general computing I definitely couldn't do it every day, at least not with any of the headsets I've tried (Rift CV1, Vive, Index, Quest 2), but someone probably could. For gaming absolutely not. You will get headset stuttering if you try to run a standard game at the same time as using a VR headset, and stuttering in VR is horrific. There are some VR/AR devices that do all the processing on-device and act like a monitor as far as your computer is concerned (e.g. XREAL glasses), and those might work for this, but I don't have personal experience with any of those.

All of Alphacool's quick disconnects seal when disconnected. https://shop.alphacool.com/en/shop/fittings/quick-release-fasteners/17223-alphacool-hf-quick-release-connector-kit-g1/4-inner-thread-deep-black

I believe those are Alphacool HF quick releases.

Depends on the design of your stabilizers and board, but they'll only go in one way, and that way is correct.

Okay, so this is a DAC with no volume controls that is changing the volume on its own. It makes much more sense why you have a problem now. Unfortunately I don't think there is a way to ignore volume changes while still using the DAC. There's a chance it registers as multiple devices in Device Manager, in which case you could try disabling individual portions of it and hope that one of those will stop it from trying to change your volume, but still allow it to act as a DAC.

Which DAC, and is this new behavior? The reason I ask is I don't know many dedicated DACs that actually have the ability to independently change their output volume, most just rely on getting a lower volume from the source, which is what lowering the Windows volume does.

To my knowledge, there is not yet a game that requires an NVMe SSD for a good experience, but that day is coming, and I don't think it's far off. Alan Wake 2 is probably the closest so far. It can have some pop-in even on SATA SSDs, and if given the leeway it can pull up to 2.7 GB/s. [https://www.tomshardware.com/video-games/pc-gaming/alan-wake-2-punishes-your-ssd-at-27-gbs] On the bright side, NVMe SSDs have basically caught up to SATA SSDs in cost. In my opinion lack of PCIe bandwidth or m.2 slots are the only compelling reasons to use SATA drives now.

It's certainly possible that you'll get the correct plug, but I wouldn't assume that, especially if your region isn't an option on their website.

Ublock Origin has worked almost flawlessly through this whole fiasco, perhaps an hour or two of downtime immediately after YouTube changes their adblock detection, then it's back and blocking ads again. The adblock blocking is going to die down eventually when whichever executive decided cracking down on ad blockers would justify their existence for a few quarters gets bored, declares victory, and moves on to squeezing pennies out of someone else. As for your idea, suffice to say it won't work. The ad player isn't the important part of ad blocking. Google can tell which video you've downloaded from them. Ad blocking on YouTube needs to be more sophisticated than just trying to swap out the ad video to trick that.

This feature is there because music producers are paranoid about Windows changing the sound of their music. ASIO and WASAPI exclusive mode give the application full control over every sound coming out of your computer, which means Windows can't do anything to it even if your audio settings are misconfigured to add filtering or something. To disable it, open Reaper's preferences, go to the audio device settings you're at in that screenshot, then change the audio system to "WASAPI" and the mode to "Shared mode". This will let other applications on your computer play sound while Reaper is running. There are some other options that work, but WASAPI shared mode is the most modern.

Well you've got an AMI BIOS, which (theoretically) shouldn't have long beeps to begin with. On older Gigabyte hardware 1 long 3 short meant a GPU issue. On more recent models with an AMI BIOS 3 short beeps means a memory error. Try reseating the GPU and RAM. (Gigabyte are worse than useless and as far as I can tell they have no info about beep codes in their manuals or on their current site, so wayback machine it is.) https://web.archive.org/web/20220627023123/https://www.gigabyte.com/Support/FAQ/816

Nope. For cables the difference is all in signal integrity, and figuring that out is effectively impossible at home. The only option is to try the cable and if the resolution you want doesn't work, try another. On the bright side, this means it's possible for old cables (especially short ones) to be capable of more than they were originally rated for.

Are you willing to make a backup or are you not attached to any of the data on your system already? There's no good way I know of to figure out which of those partitions is the bootloader being used, even the ones on other drives could be it (and if so that will stop your system from booting in the future if you remove that drive), so the only way I'd recommend fixing this is a full reinstall. Boot up the Windows installer, delete all the partitions you don't want, shut down the system, disconnect all drives except the one you want Windows on, reinstall Windows, reconnect the drives. If you don't want to reinstall again, I say just accept it and live with the GB or so of missing space and hope the bootloader didn't end up on a different drive.

And the S20 FE is not the Tab A 10.1. Galaxy S and Galaxy Tab S devices from that time period started getting wired display output, but Galaxy Tab A devices did not have it until the Tab A9+ (and only the + version) released a week ago.

No, the Tab A 10.1 can't output to a display via the USB-C port.

Wired controllers didn't need to be authorized, and unauthorized wireless controllers used their own dongles to mimic wired controllers. Both of those skirted Microsoft's licensing fees. That's what Microsoft is cracking down on. Gotta squeeze more blood from this stone somehow. Such is the way of things in 2023.

Some things worth considering: That's as fast or faster than any 980 Pro ATTO run I can find online from any reviewer. If you want to see feel good big numbers iometer will usually show results a bit higher than ATTO. All of these numbers are totally pointless anyway because you will never use your drive in a way that will take advantage of those sequential high queue depth reads and writes.