Unimaginative Name

Did you remove the sticker from the bottom of the cooler prior to installing?

It depends on what engineering discipline. I'm a computer science & engineering student with an electrical engineering dual major. There are a lot of Macbooks, especially in the computer science sphere. My university has upwards of 20 computer labs in the engineering department alone, all with software necessary for school work and none more than 3 years old. I think about 10% of people have a gaming laptop/desktop and a surface of some kind for bringing to class. 20% Macbook. 40% of people have $400-$500 mainstream laptops. Then I'd say the other 30% is split between gaming/workstation laptops that they drag to class or $1500-$2000 business laptops. With 4,000 engineering students, this is a wild guess. 

Yeah, oops. Not touching that PSU. I ran a simultaneous stress test in open air for 45 minutes. I then put the lid back on and it crashed within 5 or 10 minutes. At this point I know it's a PSU overheating causing crashes. I started the RMA process with cooler master. Pray for me.

That's what I initially thought, but it has now crashed under a CPU only test. Turning off thermal protection in the BIOS didn't do anything either. During troubleshooting, I've run Furmark alone multiple times. It has crashed the system a couple of times. So now it has crashed under a CPU only load and a GPU only load, as well as a combined load. It isn't CPU/GPU/MOBO temp related. I may try the tried and true remove 1 memory stick and retry.

Yes, I had this case. I zip tied a third fan to the top slot for aesthetic purposes. 
 
As long as there is airflow going into and out of the case is a more or less fluid manner, there shouldn't be an issue. There won't be an issue. The air, which is a fluid, will more or less enter through the bottom and middle, but get sucked up toward the top exhaust fan and to the CPU cooler. Your RAM, VRMs, and CPU will be more than sufficiently cooled by just those two fans. Your CPU cooler fan (as long as it's a tower) will also work to suck air directly from the outside, especially if there is an open gap.

Yes even then it's fine.
 
Is that overall usage? What does the per core usage look like? Maybe the games are running on a single core.

It depends on what you're using the PC for. A 2 (or even 3) TB HDD with a 500GB SSD will cost less than either of your original choices on their own. The reason I said something about the fan controller is that it really is unnecessary. Priorities being where they are, money saved is money saved, especially when you said that you wanted it under $2000 at max. The better option would be a three pack of cheaper, quieter fans and run them all off of mobo headers. 

1) Fan controller really isn't needed. If you get 4-pin fans you can even control them with software like SpeedFan. 
2) Without knowing exactly what you are going to be doing with the build, I can say that a 2TB SSD and 12TB HDD is probably overkill for most  applications. A 512GB SSD and 2TB HDD are plenty for most applications. 

You don't need a higher watt PSU. And you don't even need to buy anything other than EVGA. The G and P series are generally very good units, but electronics can sometimes be weird. Unfortunately, unless you have another PSU, there really isn't any way to test unless you have an alternate PSU. I was fairly certain it was the PSU when I turned off the ECO switch and the PSU fan would run at 100%, 100% of the time. Making me think that the ECO mode somehow caused no fan usage at all, causing repeated PSU overheats, lowering the effective capacity to where it could no longer power the system. But that's just my guess. BTW...EVGA was great with the RMA process.

I've had the same problem and it turned out to be a bad PSU. When did it start and has it been happening for frequently? Wha are your PC specs?

Sounds like a good problem to have.

1) Remember that people are more likely to write reviews when their experience was negative. 
2) The laptop components (actually, the laptop itself) come(s) from an OEM manufacturer. It has more to do with the OEM that is providing components and assembling the laptop. Cyberpower probably has very little do with their laptops other than branding and spec-selection.
3) Laptops don't come with the shipping hazards that come with shipping a desktop system.
4) Reinstalling Windows out of the box is probably the best way to ensure that you don't have issues on the software side.

They're extremely similar. The 980ti will consume more power; but go with the one that you can get for cheaper (probably the 980ti). Just make sure you do your homework about buying used components, especially GPU's

They're extremely similar. The 980ti will consume more power; but go with the one that you can get for cheaper (probably the 980ti). Just make sure you do your homework about buying used components, especially GPU's

First time hearing about it, and it's from a small almost non existent channel.
Yeah. Not going to put a whole lot of weight behind that.

No. I believe PS3 used APU's. The CPU and GPU are on a single chip and they are soldered to the PCB. 
EDIT: This doesn't change the answer of no, but the PS3 uses a separate CPU and GPU, they are both soldered components though. I was thinking of AMD's Jaguar architecture being used on current generation consoles.

http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/H110M-STX/index.asp
 
That's the smallest I can come up with. It's a mini-STX form factor. Good luck finding one though.

What county are you looking to buy/build in? That largely determines the answer to your question.

What county are you looking to buy/build in? That largely determines the answer to your question.

If you get a B250 board, get a 7700 non-k. If you get the 7700k, get a Z270 board. Start there. The 7700k is overclockable but requires an overclockable board. Z270 boards are overclockable and the B250 board does not support overclocking.

Updated now amigo:)
 
I can't find any MEM-OK button, possibly its not on ITX-boards.

Yerp, as long as you have a 16x slot open. If the PC is a prebuilt (doesn't appear to be per the spec sheet), make sure it can take a full height expansion slot (rules or measuring tape). 1050ti's sometimes have power connectors and sometimes don't. If your PSU doesn't have the proper connector, you could always get a molex adapter. If price is an object, you can also look at a 4GB GTX 960, about the same performance as a 1050ti. 

I'd say it's not worth the upgrade at all. If you're on that tight of a budget, save up for a while longer and get an 8th gen (or 9th gen by then) processor with a Z-series board (or get a Ryzen 2 CPU and board). 
 
If you're hell-bent on upgrading a 6700 to a 7700k, you will almost certainly need to update your BIOS for compatibility. What are the rest of your system specs?

Look up a youtube video. The short of it is you'll need a formatted USB drive and you need to download the new BIOS, then you go into your BIOS, find the BIOS update/flash utility and follow the steps. But seriously, watch a few videos first. It is way too easy to completely kill a board if you don't know what you're doing.

I'd say it's not worth the upgrade at all. If you're on that tight of a budget, save up for a while longer and get an 8th gen (or 9th gen by then) processor with a Z-series board (or get a Ryzen 2 CPU and board). 
 
If you're hell-bent on upgrading a 6700 to a 7700k, you will almost certainly need to update your BIOS for compatibility. What are the rest of your system specs?