keskparane

Since you're seeing power issues double check the 4 wire CPU feed to the motherboard. The TDP of the i7 is 84W compared to the TDP of the i3 at 54W.
 
Your PSU should be fine if it is what it says and is working properly.

Empty comment so you can read my signature

I've been using cyberpower for years. Happy with the product. It did let 1 strike through but they paid for the damage without a problem.

No point buying the most appropriate CPU for that card. You would just be buying a smaller CPU than what would most likely be a better buy with regards to future longevity. If you want to upgrade your CPU then buy the best you can afford at the time. If the best you can afford isn't a reasonable upgrade then keep saving.

Literally took 45 sec to find the manual and the page.

Youtube thinks that deaf people should watch incorrect subtitles so as to confuse and mislead them.

It seems to use 5V, although this actually doesn't matter for your use case. All you need to do to turn the PC on/off is bridge the two power switch pins, using a relay or transistor. This is the same reason you can turn a PC on with a screwdriver if you don't have a power button hooked up.

IME there is usually some indication of the rear of the sub. I would point this towards the wall as I believe it is the way it was designed to be used.

Is your 3TB HDD listed in Steam > Settings > Storage?
It is and you've tried repair library?

Do you have more than 1 drive?
Did a non system drive somehow disconnect / reconnect / change drive letter due to moving the PC?
Are the games titles missing from your library?
Are the games family shared on another machine and the network has changed?
 

Do you have more than 1 drive?
Did a non system drive somehow disconnect / reconnect / change drive letter due to moving the PC?
Are the games titles missing from your library?
Are the games family shared on another machine and the network has changed?
 

But seriously, no.
And if you want help you should probably give more details. 

The way I read it straight from the start.
 
Although my phone was second hand, been running about 3 years, always charges 100% overnight, and battery is fine. So I don't think it's a problem.

Don't do this^
 
Don't muck with the tabs. The cards are built to specification and literally millions (probably billions) of cards have fitted just fine with the bend in them.

I might too if it wasn't so ridiculously priced. 
 
You tube IMO is mostly for stuff to fill time WHILE doing other stuff. Most of what I watch are product reviews etc so essentially I'm getting advertising in the content. I ain't going to pay more than a steaming service when they still want even more money if I want to watch a movie.
 
The user manual:
 

1. Depends on the coolant used.
2. Cooler than is practical.

Pretty sure that replacing the keyboard is a case of ordering the new part and plugging it in.
 
First thing to do is see if you can order the part. If you can then you could investigate if you are able to replace it yourself.
 
I've replaced a few keyboards myself, they can be quite fiddly is all, but with patience and the right tools (usually just some small star or security screwdrivers) it can be done.

Depends on how you look at it.
 
I have a Cyberpower UPS. It has phone and ethernet protection built in as well. While it didn't prevent a lightning strike from taking my system out the Cyberpower warranty replaced eveything. I'd call that protection.

Samsung magician is free.
 
I have used it, I do use it, I would use it again.
 
Don't worry about using an NVME as boot drive, you'll not wear it out.
 

There are a few things you can check.
 
Firstly is it seated properly in the slot? - You should be able to pull the tags that lock it in sideways and partially eject the RAM. Then push the stick back in evenly until the tabs lock back into place.
 
Secondly check that you have the sticks in the right slots. - For dual channel to work you will have to have the sticks in the correct slots. Read the manual to make sure you are using the right slots.
 
You can check the MSI site for the compatibility with your RAM. Although that is just a tested list. Any RAM with the right specs should work.
 
You can check if the BIOS is up to date. Firmware updates may fix some problems. Make sure to read all the notes that come with the BIOS update.
 
Just a couple of things to get you started.
 

Here's what you're looking for.
 
The PCIE port is rated for 75W of power, so you want a card designed to run at 75W max.
 
That is why the 1050Ti has been recommended, because it's designed to draw 75W max. But you can choose any card you like designed to run up to 75W

I think he means 2mm diameter

I think he means 2mm diameter

i've actually done enough diagnostics here to know that windows installations don't jump boards perfectly all the time.

it's not a feature of the os at all and doesnt work as well as it did with windows 95 or 98 , windows 10-11 just aren't that simple anymore

IT CAN work just fine. it has been done , sometimes theres zero problems. But a lot of times drivers don;t fix the problems and the os can have a ton of errors booting or performance can be awful. You can always try it , but it's not SUPPOSED to/expected to work. it's just something that CAN work.

Doesn't sound the least bit sentient to me.
Grammatically it can string a few words together in a meaningful sentence but no sign of understanding imo.
Plastic, face value, placations.